Viper RC -
#3961
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msave- I assume you are asking for your b4? I've been doing a lot of testing with gearing and 13.5's lately
I'm geared 31/69 in a durango 210
69/31*2.6 for around 5.79 FDR . Track is 110 x 70, outdoor, ambient temps of around 65-75 degrees. Motor never temps higher than 140. (10 minute mains)
I would definitely start with a higher ratio and work your way down based on temps.
I'm geared 31/69 in a durango 210
69/31*2.6 for around 5.79 FDR . Track is 110 x 70, outdoor, ambient temps of around 65-75 degrees. Motor never temps higher than 140. (10 minute mains)
I would definitely start with a higher ratio and work your way down based on temps.
#3963
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
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I have been getting some mixed answers on if I should change out my rotor to a rpm rotor. What are some of the common set ups for stock buggy? I am rinning a b4.1 vtx10r/vst17.5 with the stock rotor. 35/69 for gearing, motor timming maxed, and blinkky mode on high bite clay indoor track. I seem to not have the top end of the D3's, phantoms, sonics ect.
#3964
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I have been getting some mixed answers on if I should change out my rotor to a rpm rotor. What are some of the common set ups for stock buggy? I am rinning a b4.1 vtx10r/vst17.5 with the stock rotor. 35/69 for gearing, motor timming maxed, and blinkky mode on high bite clay indoor track. I seem to not have the top end of the D3's, phantoms, sonics ect.
#3966
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I posted this on the Viper forum, figured I would put it here also for some good info about Copperhead/VX4:
Guys just wanted everyone to know that me and Steve Downs ran the Copperhead esc's and VX4R motors at Motorama last weekend. We took turns running the 46 and 51 motors.
Steve qualified and finished 25th out of 170 - 4wd SC trucks. He actually borrowed Mike Gay's AE SC10 4x4 for the race and had not driven either the truckmornthe Copperhead system before practice on Friday. Pretty awesome for 3 practice rounds, 3 qualifiers and a main. Me, well I am not the driver that Steve is, but I think I finished like 84 of 170 the same way. 1st race with a 4wd SC.
We were both impressed about how the system felt smooth even though you hear how unsensored is not smooth. We had no issues except for me sitting in the grid for over 5 minutes waiting for someone to fix their truck - it went into auto shutdown mode. We swapped motors during the event so each had a try with the different power bands. Neither one of us thought we were short on power compared to anyone. In fact Steve ran a qualifier with Gabriel Galeano who was running a VTX10R/VST4.5XL combo and they were comparable on speed - but the Losi chassis was better on the rough surface than the AE chassis. That was our biggest downfall, it wasn't until we were watching the A Main did we realize the droop in the AE was hurting us through all the bumps.
We ran timing set at 6, motor start set at 6, I think my brakes were at 7 (not sure if I remember that right). I geared 62-16 with both motors. Steve ran 62-15. Those were the pinions we had. Only time we had any heat issues was when Steve was running the JC chassis cover, even then it wasn't that bad. 139 if I remember - never too hot that you couldn't touch it.
All and all pretty good weekend and we think we could have done better with a little more chassis time. A few people we spoke to couldn't believe we were running economy series motors, but the systems worked very well.
Guys just wanted everyone to know that me and Steve Downs ran the Copperhead esc's and VX4R motors at Motorama last weekend. We took turns running the 46 and 51 motors.
Steve qualified and finished 25th out of 170 - 4wd SC trucks. He actually borrowed Mike Gay's AE SC10 4x4 for the race and had not driven either the truckmornthe Copperhead system before practice on Friday. Pretty awesome for 3 practice rounds, 3 qualifiers and a main. Me, well I am not the driver that Steve is, but I think I finished like 84 of 170 the same way. 1st race with a 4wd SC.
We were both impressed about how the system felt smooth even though you hear how unsensored is not smooth. We had no issues except for me sitting in the grid for over 5 minutes waiting for someone to fix their truck - it went into auto shutdown mode. We swapped motors during the event so each had a try with the different power bands. Neither one of us thought we were short on power compared to anyone. In fact Steve ran a qualifier with Gabriel Galeano who was running a VTX10R/VST4.5XL combo and they were comparable on speed - but the Losi chassis was better on the rough surface than the AE chassis. That was our biggest downfall, it wasn't until we were watching the A Main did we realize the droop in the AE was hurting us through all the bumps.
We ran timing set at 6, motor start set at 6, I think my brakes were at 7 (not sure if I remember that right). I geared 62-16 with both motors. Steve ran 62-15. Those were the pinions we had. Only time we had any heat issues was when Steve was running the JC chassis cover, even then it wasn't that bad. 139 if I remember - never too hot that you couldn't touch it.
All and all pretty good weekend and we think we could have done better with a little more chassis time. A few people we spoke to couldn't believe we were running economy series motors, but the systems worked very well.
#3967
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
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The straight is about 110ish feet, I will be trying to gear down this weekend to see what happens. I know that the fastest (top end) on the track is running the same gearing with a different motor. I have been told to keep going bigger with the viper stuff. I think I am going to back down to like 30/75 and work my way back up. The one thing I do have to say is that even with the big ratio I have, my viper gear is NOT having any torque issues! Bottom end on these motors is stout.
#3968
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msave- I assume you are asking for your b4? I've been doing a lot of testing with gearing and 13.5's lately
I'm geared 31/69 in a durango 210
69/31*2.6 for around 5.79 FDR . Track is 110 x 70, outdoor, ambient temps of around 65-75 degrees. Motor never temps higher than 140. (10 minute mains)
I would definitely start with a higher ratio and work your way down based on temps.
I'm geared 31/69 in a durango 210
69/31*2.6 for around 5.79 FDR . Track is 110 x 70, outdoor, ambient temps of around 65-75 degrees. Motor never temps higher than 140. (10 minute mains)
I would definitely start with a higher ratio and work your way down based on temps.
#3969
#3971
Tech Rookie
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Let me start by saying I am a complete noob to this hobby, but my best friend took me to a race and it looked pretty fun, so I jumped in headfirst. I bought a ARR Losi SCTE and put a Viper R/C Copperhead-R ESC & VX4R.51 5150kV 4-Pole 550 Sensorless Brushless Motor Combo from AMain in it. I got a Savox servo and a futaba radio. All good and well. I bought the 12-14 and 15-17 pinion gear sets from Novak. I ran a 15 tooth to start the night. 5 minutes into its first practice run, the car just stopped. I was just driving straight. Didnt really know what was going on. I walked out there, picked it up, pulled the trigger on the radio, but nothing. On my way back to the pits, wheels started spinning when I pulled the trigger. So I sat it down and finished the battery out and chalked it up to a fluke.
Next battery went through fine, no issue. About an hour later, 1st heat, it ran through fine, no problems, except driver error, I sucked, first race ever, lol. 2nd heat, about an hour later, my car stops on a straight about 3 minutes into the race. Didnt know what the hell, so I took it back to the pits. About 15 seconds after sitting down, it started working again. 3rd heat, an hour later, the same thing, except it was even quicker into the race, maybe 2 minutes. I took it back and looked at the trouble shooting sheet and it looked like ESC overheat with the blinking lights and power cut off. By the time I figured that out, it was already cooled off for a temp gauge to do any good.
I swapped out the gear for a 13 tooth, just to see if that would help. I finished the main all the way through, 6 or 7 min? maybe... not sure how long to be honest, but I messed around after the race to drain the battery too (another 5 min or so). No issues.
So question, is it at all related to gear size, or is it something else? My friends brother used the 16 tooth out of that set and he has the RTR version SCTE and it ran fine through all heats and main and messing around afterwards, so I assume this one should be able to run at least that. Oh, I was also on Profile 2 the whole time, Street Mode or something like that.
The track was very tight and technical, lots of 180s, and only one real straight of any distance. Not sure if that matters, just an FYI.
The truck had lots of power throughout when it was actually operating. I ordered the pro gauge too, will I be able to adjust some things from there to help it out? Just a new guy looking for answers. Thanks.
Next battery went through fine, no issue. About an hour later, 1st heat, it ran through fine, no problems, except driver error, I sucked, first race ever, lol. 2nd heat, about an hour later, my car stops on a straight about 3 minutes into the race. Didnt know what the hell, so I took it back to the pits. About 15 seconds after sitting down, it started working again. 3rd heat, an hour later, the same thing, except it was even quicker into the race, maybe 2 minutes. I took it back and looked at the trouble shooting sheet and it looked like ESC overheat with the blinking lights and power cut off. By the time I figured that out, it was already cooled off for a temp gauge to do any good.
I swapped out the gear for a 13 tooth, just to see if that would help. I finished the main all the way through, 6 or 7 min? maybe... not sure how long to be honest, but I messed around after the race to drain the battery too (another 5 min or so). No issues.
So question, is it at all related to gear size, or is it something else? My friends brother used the 16 tooth out of that set and he has the RTR version SCTE and it ran fine through all heats and main and messing around afterwards, so I assume this one should be able to run at least that. Oh, I was also on Profile 2 the whole time, Street Mode or something like that.
The track was very tight and technical, lots of 180s, and only one real straight of any distance. Not sure if that matters, just an FYI.
The truck had lots of power throughout when it was actually operating. I ordered the pro gauge too, will I be able to adjust some things from there to help it out? Just a new guy looking for answers. Thanks.
#3972
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Let me start by saying I am a complete noob to this hobby, but my best friend took me to a race and it looked pretty fun, so I jumped in headfirst. I bought a ARR Losi SCTE and put a Viper R/C Copperhead-R ESC & VX4R.51 5150kV 4-Pole 550 Sensorless Brushless Motor Combo from AMain in it. I got a Savox servo and a futaba radio. All good and well. I bought the 12-14 and 15-17 pinion gear sets from Novak. I ran a 15 tooth to start the night. 5 minutes into its first practice run, the car just stopped. I was just driving straight. Didnt really know what was going on. I walked out there, picked it up, pulled the trigger on the radio, but nothing. On my way back to the pits, wheels started spinning when I pulled the trigger. So I sat it down and finished the battery out and chalked it up to a fluke.
Next battery went through fine, no issue. About an hour later, 1st heat, it ran through fine, no problems, except driver error, I sucked, first race ever, lol. 2nd heat, about an hour later, my car stops on a straight about 3 minutes into the race. Didnt know what the hell, so I took it back to the pits. About 15 seconds after sitting down, it started working again. 3rd heat, an hour later, the same thing, except it was even quicker into the race, maybe 2 minutes. I took it back and looked at the trouble shooting sheet and it looked like ESC overheat with the blinking lights and power cut off. By the time I figured that out, it was already cooled off for a temp gauge to do any good.
I swapped out the gear for a 13 tooth, just to see if that would help. I finished the main all the way through, 6 or 7 min? maybe... not sure how long to be honest, but I messed around after the race to drain the battery too (another 5 min or so). No issues.
So question, is it at all related to gear size, or is it something else? My friends brother used the 16 tooth out of that set and he has the RTR version SCTE and it ran fine through all heats and main and messing around afterwards, so I assume this one should be able to run at least that. Oh, I was also on Profile 2 the whole time, Street Mode or something like that.
The track was very tight and technical, lots of 180s, and only one real straight of any distance. Not sure if that matters, just an FYI.
The truck had lots of power throughout when it was actually operating. I ordered the pro gauge too, will I be able to adjust some things from there to help it out? Just a new guy looking for answers. Thanks.
Next battery went through fine, no issue. About an hour later, 1st heat, it ran through fine, no problems, except driver error, I sucked, first race ever, lol. 2nd heat, about an hour later, my car stops on a straight about 3 minutes into the race. Didnt know what the hell, so I took it back to the pits. About 15 seconds after sitting down, it started working again. 3rd heat, an hour later, the same thing, except it was even quicker into the race, maybe 2 minutes. I took it back and looked at the trouble shooting sheet and it looked like ESC overheat with the blinking lights and power cut off. By the time I figured that out, it was already cooled off for a temp gauge to do any good.
I swapped out the gear for a 13 tooth, just to see if that would help. I finished the main all the way through, 6 or 7 min? maybe... not sure how long to be honest, but I messed around after the race to drain the battery too (another 5 min or so). No issues.
So question, is it at all related to gear size, or is it something else? My friends brother used the 16 tooth out of that set and he has the RTR version SCTE and it ran fine through all heats and main and messing around afterwards, so I assume this one should be able to run at least that. Oh, I was also on Profile 2 the whole time, Street Mode or something like that.
The track was very tight and technical, lots of 180s, and only one real straight of any distance. Not sure if that matters, just an FYI.
The truck had lots of power throughout when it was actually operating. I ordered the pro gauge too, will I be able to adjust some things from there to help it out? Just a new guy looking for answers. Thanks.
#3973
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+1 The motor on the rtr SCTE is a 2800kv motor, so a 16, or 16 is fine, but not for the 5150kv motor. Your truck must have been extremely fast, probably too fast. im running the tekin pro 4 4000kv in my SCTE with a 15tooth pinion and it is very fast on our large track(150ft straight).
#3975