I assume it is a pancar? looking at your name?
As said before, we need also track length, spur teeth, pinion teeth and tire diameter to determine what to do.
It is a pancar and runs on foam.
So every heat you have tire wear and the rollout will change and there fore the top speed will change also.
Give us motor type, spur,pinion,tire diameter and track length.
The we can calculated what to do.
Change spur/pinion or change settings on ESC.
Also check your sensor cable because if this is faulty, all your setting won't mean a thing as you drive sensorless and there fore no timing or turbo.

Regards Roy

Track lenght 25meters, surface carpet 400m2, spur 64dp 36/105T, wheel diameter is 62mm - nosram cpx carpet.

Chassis: hb tcxx
batterry: nano-tech shorty ( good condition after 3 competitions)
New bearing abec5.

Apple software eh... That may get you a new customer! Picked up a "just stock" combo for my mini (m05) will be testing it out this week. Still running Chinese knock offs in all my off-road, will be waiting to hear more on the apple software before I upgrade those!

That is good news. I just got two new Hobbywing ESCs and would like to be able to use the software on my MacBook.

OK TC it is:)
Dunno what the internal drive ratio is on the TCXX???
If it is around 2.0 then you have a FDR of about 5.83.
I think this is a bit high for a 17.5
The car will be getting out of corners fast but has no top speed.
Go smaller on the spur and check again.
We run that FDR with 13.5 with timing on our track and that one has a straight of about 35 meters.

Regards Roy

I think tcx have 1.95.
Should i change to 5 final ratio?

.

Try that.
Check if top speed is better and check after 2 minutes running, motor temp.
If motor is still running cold you could go down further.

Regards Roy

What are people running for punch settings in 12mod? I tried out andy moores setup but I was dumping batteries and was looking for a less agressive feel. I don't usually run much drag brake. Someone helped me and he put in a ton of drag brake but I just couldn't get used to to transition of lots of drag and very low punch. Was almost like I had nothing until full throttle pressed for a second or so.
No fault. Just not my comfort zone. My.fault for not makingthe time to try it out.

I had no problem driving andys setup at all. Just only got 6.5 minutes out of 6500mah lol.

Angelo does the new firmware improve anything on the v3
Thanks

I would try around 5 fdr - boost timing 64 boost start rpm 2500 and lower the boost acc rpm to 250 as this will bring the boost in quicker.
Also the higher the punch control (>9) will give more punch out of the corner, set max reverse to 100.

Turbo settings won't matter as you will only be using boost.

Keep an eye on temps check every couple of mins to start with.

I have a very low speed cogging problem with two different Tamiya shaft drive cars, and two different Thunderpower motors, with two different Justock controllers, If you remove the pinion, the motor is smooth, but unless you nail it from a dead stop, the cogging makes so much noise it sounds like you've trashed a spur. If you nail the throttle, it will drive through it, but this can't be good on the equipment.

Once it starts moving, or if you give it the slightest push, it never does it again.

I speculate this is because the FDR is so high (between 3.2-3.8) the speed control doesn't see the rotor turning and misfires. Any suggestions on how to remedy this?

The gearing is to high .what turn motor you running and what model tamiya car?

tamiya TCS spec racers need that much gear!

One is A TB-03, 21.5 Thunderpower, geared 3.20. I won the TCS nationals in GT3 with its twin last year.

The other one is the TB04 I would like to run in GT2, 17.5 Thunderpower, geared at 3.50.

The cars needs that much gear to be competitive. Gearing down isn't an option!

is the sensor cable good?