I'm having a very weird problem with my Hobbywing Justock ESC. I'm doing the initial setup. Everything seems fine at first. When I turn on the car, the red LED blinks normally. I roll on the throttle smoothly, and the motor goes smoothly. Then when I pull hard on the trigger, it stutters a sec, then responds. Green LEDs start flashing. Motor is not smooth if I jab the throttle. It seems like there is major cogging just as it accelerates and smooths out as the motor winds up.

I already tried different battery, and tried 3 different sensor wires, including the stock wire. It is giving me the same result each time. I am stumped... Anyone have any idea what is going on?

BTW, it is hooked up to a Speed Passion Ultra Sportsman 17.5 V3 motor. I had ran this previously with the Cirtix ESC so I know its not a motor issue.

Ok, the cogging is less severe when I increase the start mode punch all the way to maximum (level 9). Still cogs slightly now if I apply the smallest amount of throttle. Green LED is still flashing. Is this normal?

All functions of V3 are not possible through the memory of 2.1, but I think it would be possible to modify the software to 2.1, with the possibility of Blinky mode (no timing) without using a computer, only by resetting the timing, as in V3.

So one would utilizabile software for all categories :sneaky:

I hope Michael reads this post... :smile:

The flashing green LED means problems to the group engine sensors or sensor cable is defective.

Try changing the cable also carries out a test with another engine.

The Cirtix has a data collection sensor less sensitive than Justock, maybe some motor abnormalities were not reported with Cirtix and the operation seemed normal.

But have you tried using a different motor with the HW ESC? Just to rule out any possibility? Some times the motor plays a vital role when it comes to isolating esc problems.

Saw a lot of sensor problems with those motors at club level last year when they first came out. Come to think of it, it was mostly when used with Hobbying ESCs. I suspect it is the combination of that motor with that ESC that is the problem, not your ESC itself - so either a move back to the Cirtix or a change of motor is the best solution.

Problem is we have to use that motor since its the spec motor for the class we are racing in. The reason I took out the Cirtix ESC was because the brakes on it was terrible and not consistent. I hope there is another solution around this. A bit disappointed since this is my first Hobbywing product purchase. I know I wouldn't have this problem running a Tekin ESC.

lol, tekins have their own issues.

Brakes on Hobbywing are terrible and not consistent either - in my experience worse than the SP Reventon (very similar to Cirtix). Out of the frying pan, into the fire?

So i ran my hobbywing 1s for the first time on saturday night in mod 1/12 and had a wierd thing happen in both my quals and in my main. my car lost all power to the motor but still had steering and it made beeping noises. motor was 108 deg F. and the esc had a speed passion high rpm fan on it.

my settings were :

hobbywing 1s running mod software
42mm rollout
lrp x12 4.5t with tuned rotor.
voltage protection 3.0v
punch #1
drag brake 10%
5 timing
13 turbo
.1 delay
24 slope

any help would be great thanks!

LOL, possibly so. I think I'm going to test it out in an open parking lot to get more speed out of it and see if the brake strength will increase or at least be a little more consistent than the Cirtix. If not, then out goes the Hobbywing and in goes a Tekin that cost almost 3x more than it. :(

I believe battery cutoff does not work with 1s, you need to turn it off.

Okay.. thanks I will give that a shot.

Angelo, will updating the Justock firmware to version 508 help with my problem?

V3 in 17.5 tc
 

So I've been running offroad for a while with the v3 and I like the feel, but I'm thinking of getting back into Touring car again and I've been wondering how the V3 stacks up against the competition in 17.5 spec mode. I ran an RS last year and it was too much of an on/off feel to be smooth, however I've been told the V3 can't keep up with RS. Anyone have experience with this?