What are your temps ?As i see your FDR at 6.3 is way to low, temp is a very big factor in any type of electronic units as its performance will start to fade and all it takes is a drop of temp by 5 degrees and its back again .

Still sounds like an overheating problem to me, how are your drag brakes feeling when the 'fade' appears, are they 'hardening up' I personally would be running that motor at closer to 7.0 FDR and adjusting the Timings accordingly. Have you tried what we have been trialling and that is setting the Turbo to 1 (OFF) and then fiddling with the rest of the timings as we have noticed very little difference when using the 'Turbo' timings on lap times but with considerably LESS heat generated. If you are slightly heavy handed on the throttle then the speedo is often attempting to instigate turbo when the revs are too low, thus straining the motor. remember that 13.5's have a lot of low end grunt and wrong timings can negate this benefit massively as you end up adding timing when really the motor just needs to be 'left to be' in its' natural form to use the available 'power'. As an experiment try running our way a few times andd you may notice n improvement in lap times as well as a huge reduction in heat.

Hope it helps, these are our personal observations and may not be suitable for all but as they err on the conservative side then there will be little chance of causing damage by using them.

Cherry x

My first thought is that the batteries are not very efficient, you may have a significant drop in voltage after a few minutes (I've also had the Trakpower), try lowering the cut-off.
The second thought is to check the cable sensors, often the problem is there and the ESC switches to sensorless with considerable loss of power (with cables Speedpassion LRP and I had problems ...)
One question: have you checked the temperature of the engine?

As usual the ESC switches to sensorless .Check or better replace your sensor cable .If the problem persists try lowering the timing.

thanks for all your help
 

Thats a lot of food for thought. I will have to test the adjustments over the next few days as the weather here is not looking well for the outdoor track.

Cherry
I am pretty hard on the throttle. I should have temp guned the motor last night during practice, I totaly forgot I had a gun with me. You recommend a 7 fdr with that 13.5 motor. I have a SP v3 motor comming. Any ideas on a base setup?
By the way thanks for the Videos.

Besercoe

I will try setting the end points again at 90% then back to 100. Heat affects the end points? Would never have fiqured that. I read that trick back a few pages and have not yet tried it. I can tell you next time I set up my controler I will do this. I have a DX3R so I just reduce the end point adjustmen? Do I do this both for brake too?

Agno

With the sensor cable its there a way to check it with a multimeter? I guess I could check wire to wire for its resistance? Do you mean lowering the lipo cutoff value?

I see the general sesnus is I have deloped too much heat. I was running this set up two weeks ago with no issuses or changes. The only major difference was the outside temp. It felt like 42 degrees here in Toronto Canada. It must have reduced the ability to disapate the heat.

Its hard to keep up with guys, such a wealth of knowledge in the two HW and SP treads. Thanks to all of you beta testers I now own two HW esc and 2 SP lpf.
I am retirering my SP 13.5 V1 to put in my sons offroad car. This means I have a BOSS SP V3 13.5 comming. I would really appreicate a base setup and FDR

Thanks again for all the help.

You can check the efficiency of the sensor cable from the LED status, if the ESC switches to sensorless mode problems for cable or sensor LED blinks green.
The lipo cut-off is parameter 4# - low voltage cut-off threshold, with a low value of ESC is less sensible the lowering of battery voltage

Update to my issue fadding
 

Did a strip down of the chassis today. I did find one thinn which may have led to my fadding problem. During my racing I look a pretty hard hit on the left side near my speedo. My speedo case was partialy apart and the sensor lead may not have been in 100%. I snaped the case back together and secured the cable. Thinking back i did notice a blinking green light. As Agno suggested a possible problem with the sensor cable.

I will continue to check the and test with the software.

I had a very productive day of testing today. Track was windy but still got 10 runs down. Dropped my FDR down and upped the start rpm and the car is very nice now. Ive dropped the DRRS right down too and find the car a lot more drivable. No lap timing was running so I have to wait till next meet for the true test but very happy. Still want to try higher start rpms as i did try 7500 today but im curious about a 9000 start and puch at 4 so it winds out a little slower as im still coming on a bit too strong around the sweeper. I ended up with the following settings.

t3 duo 1 17.5 middle hole timing FDR 5.5
DRRS level 2
boost timing 21*
turbo 4*
Start Rpm 6000
Delay 0.6
Punch -3 400*
End Rpm 16000

Temps 45c. after average 8 minute test runs with no fade or drop in brakes or acceleration :sneaky:

Interestingly those are the Exact settings I have ended up with my 13.5 except setting 13 is set to 3. on a large track (about 60m straight) I was also geared at 6.4, however at my local my FDR is 7.2 - which has a 25m straight. I do not notice any fading when setting 13 to 3 rather than 1. this is using a duo 13.5 with no timing on the endbell

Can anyone point me in the right direction for a guide to updating a hobbywing Xerun 120amp ver 2 with the latest software for stock racing, im a newb to hobbywing, also do i have to first put the software on it back to old version or something? , I dont even know for sure what ver is on it atm. cheers

Do you have the USB 2in1 program box? Get one of those. Plenty on ebay at the moment from HK.

Drop me a PM if you need further details.

Cheers,

Tony

I have a tutorial if anyone is interested, excuse the quality as it's my first attempt at a video. It is in two parts 1/2 and 2/2 and can be found at:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUKMoGvRJZY Part 1 and

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iOCFkCwBlrQ
Part 2.


Before any moans occur I am NOT showing this to be clever it is just that having had over 500 messages asking for assistance with setting up etc I have decided to lower my work load with this video. Watch it don't watch it, it's up to you it is what it is and is purely based on my time spent with these speedo's.

While watching the videos it would be helpful to have a printed copy of the XERUN 'Additional Instructions of Stock Firmware' with you so as to understand the settings being spoken about. There are several mistakes as far as actual setting figures that's why it is advised to have the sheet to hand.

http://www.hobbywing.com/upload/manu...-Hobbywing.pdf

Instruction sheet.^^^


Hope it helps.

Cherry

Hi im new to brushless, can any one explain the differences between the stock and mod software?

Im running stock currently but i havent tried mod tho.
Im using a hw 60a with a Sp V3 21.5 motor

Any setup advice will be very much appreciated

Thanks

Another windy days testing and getting my head around this speedy more and more. Some ramblings from my notes.

Higher start Rpm's just didn't work and i kept going back to 6000. I tried 4500 again and found it came in too early unsettling the car coming through the sweepers and 7500 a touch too late so would love too see a future update with a custom start rpm in say 250 increments as 6500 or 6750 start would be perfect i think.

I guess start rpm is very FDR dependent setting but i dont want to go back to the absurdly high Tekin Fdr's and the weird off power feeling that generates.

With the gearing i was running I found that 21* boost works well with 1 or 2 turbo no higher. 18 boost worked well with 3 or 4 turbo but I ran out of time to test this theory more with lower boost settings as I think im onto something there.

Still cant find the right turbo delay so i will be playing with this some more next time but feel higher is better so that the boost can fully wind out before turbo kicks in and over time the motor and flattens the power.

I ended up with the following settings although one of the local fast guys still thinks its slow compared to his Tekin.

t3 duo 1 17.5 10 degrees motor timing
FDR 5.1
DRRS level 2
boost timing 18*
turbo 4*
Start Rpm 6000
Delay 0.3
Punch -3 400*
End Rpm 14800

Temps 55c.

Still not 100% on the FDR and wouldn't mind dropping it down into the 4's to see how the rip holds up and how much extra top end it has. Either that or Im thinking of dropping the punch to 2 and see how much quicker it spools up. Also want to try 12 degrees boost and max turbo.


Now all i need is for Sunday to roll around again, some new tyres and a decent coat of sugar on the track and this is going to be dangerous.

Any thoughts on the above are appreciated. Regards Benzaah

Setup for very small track
 

Hi guys, if you're interested I tried this setup for 17.5 track very small and medium grip with excellent results (1 th place).

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/4...igsetupgmv.jpg

This is the track

http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/5404/fotopista1.gif http://img806.imageshack.us/img806/2863/fotopista2.gif