Originally Posted by FunkyDunky

Mark don't do it!! I tried the D3 21.5 in the lads car at the weekend and it went bang again after 2 runs. Trying to get them as fast as a Corally just can't happen thats the second one this year, and it was running in the 75 degree range.

As for settings I will only even run the Graupner (Not GM) motor on the same settings as a Corally it is such a unique motor that setting can't be used in the same way as you do in 13.5

I will update my website later this week with my HW set up from Colchester for both the Corally and the D3 before it went bang! just remember to temp it is the golden rule!!

Originally Posted by FunkyDunky

Mark don't do it!! I tried the D3 21.5 in the lads car at the weekend and it went bang again after 2 runs. Trying to get them as fast as a Corally just can't happen thats the second one this year, and it was running in the 75 degree range.

As for settings I will only even run the Graupner (Not GM) motor on the same settings as a Corally it is such a unique motor that setting can't be used in the same way as you do in 13.5

I will update my website later this week with my HW set up from Colchester for both the Corally and the D3 before it went bang! just remember to temp it is the golden rule!!

Originally Posted by mwoods

my dads used the d3 already and its pig slow , do u no how much timing is on the motor as kit?

the week after the stcc i ran my dads car with (21.5) both hw and corraly motors and i got within a second from the time set on the stcc meeting using the corraly but with the h/w i was bout 5 seconds slower and the motor got hot 105c i think.

Originally Posted by Jay_P

Cheers, I'll give it a go

Originally Posted by Barry_Hughes

My settings are nothing like those used on a Corally, Toby ran my settings with his GM and was very pleased with the result
Still getting to grips with 21.5 and the racing is so close in lap times, but I am sure with a bit of practice at WLRC I can get it going a bit quicker.

But like the 13.5 the Corally is a totally different motor, and does appear to be quicker due it's construction, hence it not being BRCA legal. The only downside seems to be the construction, lots seem to shed the rotor!!!!

Originally Posted by TryHard

You'll know your overtiming as the motor will stutter and won't work...

Simply put, 60° of real timing is about the limit any motor will sustain. End of.
If anyone states their putting 80° in they are talking crap, as the motor would be going backwards...

Don't believe me? Take an old brushed motor that you can adjust timing on, and whilst running it on a few volts, rotate the endbell and see what happens when you get to 90°. The motor will start to stutter and become effectively confused as to it's position.

The same thing happens in brushless motors when running high motor timing advance coupled with high esc timing levels. The sensors will struggle to find the correct position of the rotor, making it stutter, or in the worse case, go backwards! Oh, and all that adds heat!

As most motors tend to need a bit of advance to run smoothly, (Around 20-30° for most motors, although I believe the X12's have nearer 40° built in), adding more than 30° of added timing brings them into the realms of diminishing returns... eventually to the point of just adding heat for less power.

Having said that, I haven't got into the fact that the timing naturally retards as you rev up a motor though, so adding timing does help...and why boosted profiles are more efficent than blinky. But, at the end of the day it's all a balancing act for best performance.

HiH
Ed

Originally Posted by COBRARACING

Yes very true at one stage the motor will null and then run in reverse about 65-70 degrees of true timing /Angle

Originally Posted by scoop

So are the degrees of adjustment on the extreme etc true degrees as you say?

Originally Posted by FunkyDunky

I tried the higher RPM setting at this weekend and it didn't work, seemed the motor was getting to the boost earlier enough. Gearing down may have helped but up against other motors it was already loosing out. I would still suggest and ACC start point of 150 but start the RPM at 3000-4000 then alter your gear for temp and speed

Originally Posted by scoop

So are the degrees of adjustment on the extreme etc true degrees as you say?

Originally Posted by Jay_P

Ill try that, but it does look like I'm going to have to go back to the Graupner/Corally motor.....and a handfull of spare rotors! Its a shame I was really hoping the HW would be competitive

Originally Posted by M7H

Try to let the HW motor rev., so go some teeth down on your pinion...
Or did you already try that?

Originally Posted by M7H

He didn't say that.

If you "overtime" a motor, I don't think it will immediately start running backwards, because it has already a forward movement. It will slow down, and generate a lot of heat....

Originally Posted by Jay_P

Tried that, runs out of puff on the straights. Gear up and it looses on the infield. The performance is comparable with the Tekin, GM and SPv3 but I'm up against Graupners and Corallys in the STCC

Originally Posted by sosidge

It's ironic that the organiser of that series likes to go on about how blinky ESC's will only cause a motor war, yet he's happy to allow a motor war in his own series since the "outlaw" motor he sells himself has such a big advantage over BRCA-legal motors!