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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

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Old 08-30-2018, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
While wick and desoldering guns can work, they are inefficient and donít remove he as much as dropping the component.
Magen you drop something you face the section down so that when it impacts, the solder slides down and away from the contacts. You can also hold the part and slam your arm down to better control the direction the solder slide off in.

As for wire... when it comes to RC or high end applications, flexibility is paramount so once solder makes its way too far inside the wire, it will NEVER flex properly again and will forever have increased resistance so therefore it is pointless to try and remove solder. Itís best to just cut a new piece and strip a minimal amount of insulation
and tin MINIMALLY as per my instructions in previous pages.

I'll just agree to disagree with you and leave it at that. What you say is true about the wire, but I wasn't speaking to the flexibility. That said, if your removing solder from the wire, there is less of a chance that solder will wick further inside the insulation, at least not enough to make a measurable impact on flexibility. Again it depends on quality of tools and the skill level of those operating said tools.
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Old 08-30-2018, 01:44 PM
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You can disagree all you like but if you try both I can guarantee you the drop method will prove superior every time.
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Old 08-31-2018, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
You can disagree all you like but if you try both I can guarantee you the drop method will prove superior every time.
Maybe so, maybe so. I've been doing this for over 20 years though, and I have yet to see anyone take this approach, even early in my career, even before that in my much earlier hobby years. Guess I just hang out with the wrong people lol. No lie though, not once, not ever.
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Old 08-31-2018, 05:18 PM
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I will admit to using a method like the drop method mentioned. Usually when not at a bench and not having wick with me.

Such a method does remove most of the solder very quickly though.

Solder wick works very well when the amount of solder is fairly small. Large amounts saturate the wick, and you have to move to a fresh section of the wick.

Wick also needs fresh liquid flux applied before use. The small amount of flux already in the wick is usually old and dry by the time you go to use it. Fresh solder makes wick work very very well.

Desolder guns... They work ok. They can remove larger amounts than wick, and more quickly.

But a heated desolder tool is best, and better still when equiped with a button controlled vacuum pump.

So long as you haven't globbed on a ton of solder, wick with fresh flux is a good method.
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Old 08-31-2018, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by the incubus View Post
You can disagree all you like but if you try both I can guarantee you the drop method will prove superior every time.
I have more respect for my electronic equipment than to drop it on the floor when a simple flick of the wrist will do the same job.

Or maybe I just don't have as much money available to replace stuff I've broken on the floor.
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Old 09-01-2018, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
I have more respect for my electronic equipment than to drop it on the floor when a simple flick of the wrist will do the same job.

Or maybe I just don't have as much money available to replace stuff I've broken on the floor.
A simple flick does work usually. Dropping onto a surface isn't necessary most of the time.
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Old 09-05-2018, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by marine6680 View Post
But a heated desolder tool is best, and better still when equiped with a button controlled vacuum pump.
Yes, I have this available to me and is a preferred method (to me anyways). I've flicked my share before, but usually just excess off the tip of the iron. Everybody has their own methods though.
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Old 10-09-2018, 11:22 AM
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This thread needs to be front and center again as soldering skills are not improving.
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Old 10-09-2018, 11:28 AM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GLeCt_u3U8

Watch this video. Then watch it again.
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Old 10-09-2018, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GLeCt_u3U8

Watch this video. Then watch it again.
Not a bad video. I would use the video to determine what a good joint looks like then read the first post of this thread so you know what equipment and temps to use.
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Old 10-10-2018, 01:42 AM
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The method shown in the video for solder cups works. It is plenty fine for most solder needs.

I don't use that method for aerospace though, not considered reliable enough for critical connections.
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:47 PM
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I just bought the 5mm chisel tip for my hako clone...
WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!!

going from the 4mm chisel tip to the 5mm tip made such a massive difference doing motor and battery wires.... best mod ever
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LzREngineering View Post
I bought a roll of 63/37 solder off eBay as I read it's a better quality than the 60/40 should change from solid to liquid qicker. However, when I'm using it the 63/37 seems to turn in to a paste before melting and comes out a dull grey colour whereas the 60/40 I have melts quickly and has a shiny finish when set.
Am I doing something wrong with the 63/37 solder?
the ebay 63/37 is JUNK. i bought a roll and did two joints with it and saw it was junk.. looked like a dull dry joint... throw it out and buy some kester 63/37
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Old 11-11-2018, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by daveb View Post
Curios if there's a trick to removing factory installed wires? When buying let's say a LRP Flow, it comes with the wires installed. I like my wire black so I usually have to remove the wires. I noticed that even on my XR10 stock that it's really hard to remove them. I have my Hakko set at 800 degrees and it takes for ever to heat up the area to remove from the post on the ESC board. I'm assuming there's maybe a different solder used at the factory and that maybe it has a higher silver content or something. Is this what makes it difficult to remove? I removed the wires but the heat sink on the ESC was awfully warm but it still works. Just wondering what the secret is?
when im removing esc wires i always cut them down to 1" from the esc... this lessens the heat sinking of the wire and improves speeds up the melting of the joint.

( youll need to pull the wire wiith needle nose pliers or youll have burnt fingers)
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Old 11-11-2018, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by DMD View Post
raved007,

So far Iím very satisfied with the Hakko. I use a 3.5mm chisel tip and keeping it clean and shiny made a world of difference. I tried some Kester 63/37(.031) rosin core solder and rosin paste flux from SRA soldering products. This was the first time I was able to solder my electronics with ease. I need to continue to fine tune my technique but, Iím very satisfied for now. Here are some pictures. Any feedback is welcome. Thanks.




change your tip to a 5mm chisel tip. they are MUCH better to work with doing motor and batt wires...

also stop pushing down so hard on the wire. that is causing the wire to splay out. the wires should still be cylindrical. i suspect that your tip isnt big enough which is causing you to push down hard to try and get it to melt.
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