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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

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How to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)

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Old 05-23-2018, 12:28 PM
  #571  
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Hi guys, im having some issues with soldering now hope u guys can help.

i`m trying to solder wires to my new esc. and this is my problem.
using a
20/200W gun
60/40 solder led.
tried tinning the ESC wire connectors
problem now is i can`t get the wires to sit in and there is a massive amount of solder on all of the connectors .i cant get them out despite holding my solder onto them for a long time till my ESC gets really hot.
tried putting in new solder onto the connectors to melt them but it just hardens up. that was actually how i got those massive amount of solder onto the connectors.
2 of the connectors dropped out because of the heat, causing the socket solder to melt. i managed to put them back, they melt easier.

Am i using wrong soldering led?
how can i remove the excessive led now without overheating my ESC (causeing a desoldering effect)
attached is how it is now.

can anyone help pls.

thanks
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Old 05-23-2018, 09:42 PM
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Unless you are incredibly skilled (and maybe not even then) this is not the kind of thing you use a soldering gun for. Get a good iron. There are many that are recommended for RC electronics. I've been soldering for over 50 years and I would not use a gun for that.

I recommend 63/37 solder over the 60/40.

Once you have a good iron, here's how to get that excess solder off: Get the iron to max temp. Put a little flux on the solder posts on the esc. Hold the ESC upside down and touch the iron to each post with the iron pointing up into the post. When the solder melts, it will flow onto the iron. Flick the excess solder off (someplace safe) and do the next post.
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Old 05-23-2018, 10:04 PM
  #573  
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Thanks for the advice. thing is, this solder feels like it takes a quite while before it melts. before its barely melting, my ESC gets very hot. so I cant hold onto it for too long a peroid of time.

I changed 4 soldering iron, current one i`m using is a goot TQ77 20/200W I hope this is good enough. Will it be better if i soldered off the connectors then work on them individually instead?

I`m new to this. If i were to remove the connectors and soldered them back on after, is it as simple as it seems? will it affect any electronice?
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:13 AM
  #574  
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You keep talking about this TQ77 20/200. I looked it up. A) The tip is too small. B) you need an IRON with a larger tip with more heat capacity (like someone else said in the other thread you started). Your solder is probably melting slow because the gun does not have the heating capacity that is needed for the job. Among the tools I occasionally use is a Weller D550 325 watt gun. On heavy jobs it is no match for a 45 watt iron with a chisel tip.

It may be sad that you bought the incorrect equipment to solder RC stuff but there is really no point in asking for advice if you are going to refuse to take it.
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Old 05-24-2018, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dct147 View Post
Thanks for the advice. thing is, this solder feels like it takes a quite while before it melts. before its barely melting, my ESC gets very hot. so I cant hold onto it for too long a peroid of time.

I changed 4 soldering iron, current one i`m using is a goot TQ77 20/200W I hope this is good enough. Will it be better if i soldered off the connectors then work on them individually instead?

I`m new to this. If i were to remove the connectors and soldered them back on after, is it as simple as it seems? will it affect any electronice?
As others have said your iron is not anywhere near what you'd want to be using for these electronics. You want an iron like the Hakko FX-888 or something similar. And furthermore you need a solder tip that is at least 3.2mm wide which your current gun does not seem to have.

Once you get a new iron, read the beginning of this thread and completely read the soldering advice listed here because it will make your life a lot easier during your next solder job.
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:23 AM
  #576  
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so you all think its safe to try and solder wires on the esc lugs after 2 have fallen off... so no shorts inside esc .. ?? i think he melted the lugs off then the solder joints inside . the solder flowed to a location inside of esc making a dead short so lipo or any battery hooked up is now directly shorted so smoke n fire will follow. esc is now unsafe to wire up and id never connect a battery to this esc......
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by the rc guy View Post
so you all think its safe to try and solder wires on the esc lugs after 2 have fallen off... so no shorts inside esc .. ?? i think he melted the lugs off then the solder joints inside . the solder flowed to a location inside of esc making a dead short so lipo or any battery hooked up is now directly shorted so smoke n fire will follow. esc is now unsafe to wire up and id never connect a battery to this esc......
I'm not doubting that could have happened. But worst case he can practice on the ruined one first and go onto a new ESC when he manages to make a nice joint.
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Old 05-24-2018, 09:40 PM
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I cannot stress enough the importance of the right tools for the job.

An iron that does not have the heat capacity to heat up a large joint quickly will just slowly heat up the whole assembly.

Get a proper iron, solder guns are horrible for this kind of work. I never use them for any task.

Get a large enough tip for the iron... Solder tip size is important.

Read my original post completely... And do not think for a second you can shortcut the process, or skimp. You are already in a bind with the ESC, so you need to have good equipment to fix the problem.
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