Keyence ESC
#631
Originally Posted by afr0sch
I picked up a barely used Zero V Xtreme from a guy, and the ESC is in fantastic shape. He had installed the heatsink, but I don't really need to use it. I guess he removed the nameplate and epoxied it on because I cant really get it to move. I'm not really twisting too hard because I don't want to damage the ESC.
Anybody have a method for removing an epoxied heatsink? Am I out of luck?
Can you get a replacement nameplate for that ESC? From Schumacher maybe?
Any help is appreciated.
-andrew frosch
Anybody have a method for removing an epoxied heatsink? Am I out of luck?
Can you get a replacement nameplate for that ESC? From Schumacher maybe?
Any help is appreciated.
-andrew frosch
#633
Originally Posted by PitCrew
Who has the Rapida pro in stock?
I haven't been able to find one anywhere.
I haven't been able to find one anywhere.
#635
Hey guys,
I recently connected my good ol' Zero V Extreme to the newest Sprektum receiver, the SR3500, powered it up, and for some reason, the ESC seems to be glitchy, the steering servo is fine, it a Airtronics digi servo. Anyone had this problem before?
I recently connected my good ol' Zero V Extreme to the newest Sprektum receiver, the SR3500, powered it up, and for some reason, the ESC seems to be glitchy, the steering servo is fine, it a Airtronics digi servo. Anyone had this problem before?
#636
rc_bam - What are your throttle channel endpoints (EPA on Airtronics and KO, ATV on Futaba) set to? They should be 100% Throttle and 100% Brake. If you have them over that the speedo dosen't like it and does weird stuff like what you describe.
#638
Hey Adrian,
Looked at my Helios, the EPA or Travel for my KO is at 100. Still the same thing, after powering up, the Speedo reads 21-31P, and its running in reverse. Haven't had this problem before I switched radios. Any help from anyone would be highly appreciated. Thanks.
Looked at my Helios, the EPA or Travel for my KO is at 100. Still the same thing, after powering up, the Speedo reads 21-31P, and its running in reverse. Haven't had this problem before I switched radios. Any help from anyone would be highly appreciated. Thanks.
#639
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 835
From: South Carolina
RC bam
The ESC should read "0"p, it's needs to be reset.It may take a few times it's kinda touchy on the buttons.I used to have trouble with it and had a buddy that could get it right almost everytime,but sometimes it would take him a few times too.
The ESC should read "0"p, it's needs to be reset.It may take a few times it's kinda touchy on the buttons.I used to have trouble with it and had a buddy that could get it right almost everytime,but sometimes it would take him a few times too.
#640
Originally Posted by Hyper1
RC bam
The ESC should read "0"p, it's needs to be reset.It may take a few times it's kinda touchy on the buttons.I used to have trouble with it and had a buddy that could get it right almost everytime,but sometimes it would take him a few times too.
The ESC should read "0"p, it's needs to be reset.It may take a few times it's kinda touchy on the buttons.I used to have trouble with it and had a buddy that could get it right almost everytime,but sometimes it would take him a few times too.
#641
I had the same situation with my Zero V Xtreme. I replaced the Spektrum RX and the glitching stopped, but I did have to completely setup the ESC again for it to find neutral properly and read '0'. I would turn it on and it would be at 30 or so until I did a complete reset.
No more glitching with the new RX. I was also using an Airtronics servo.
Whip out your manual and reset it!
No more glitching with the new RX. I was also using an Airtronics servo.
Whip out your manual and reset it!
#642
I race with two guys that run Spectrum (old and new pro systems) and their Keyence speedos work perfectly. You have to have somthing set incorrectly.
It looks like you have't set the speedo to your new radio system.
1. With your transmitter on turn the speedo on.
2. Push the center button once to enter the SET mode.
3. While in the SET mode push the center button and hold it for for ~6 sec out until "nutr" appears. This puts you into the tramsmitter setting mode.
4. Keep you finger off the trigger and push the right arrow button, you just set the neutral point.
5. The display will switch to "drHP". Pull full throttle and hold it. Push the right arrow button.
6. The display will switch to "brHP". Push full brake and hold it. Push the right arrow button.
Note: In step 3 if you saw "nutr" right away when you pushed the center button you are NOT in the trans mitter setting mode. It takes at least 6 sec to get into that mode and all the LED's on the speedo will light/count up on the way there.
It looks like you have't set the speedo to your new radio system.
1. With your transmitter on turn the speedo on.
2. Push the center button once to enter the SET mode.
3. While in the SET mode push the center button and hold it for for ~6 sec out until "nutr" appears. This puts you into the tramsmitter setting mode.
4. Keep you finger off the trigger and push the right arrow button, you just set the neutral point.
5. The display will switch to "drHP". Pull full throttle and hold it. Push the right arrow button.
6. The display will switch to "brHP". Push full brake and hold it. Push the right arrow button.
Note: In step 3 if you saw "nutr" right away when you pushed the center button you are NOT in the trans mitter setting mode. It takes at least 6 sec to get into that mode and all the LED's on the speedo will light/count up on the way there.
#643
Yep I ran my Keyence with my Spektrum Pro series this weekend with no problems and the weekend before I ran with my old Spektrum system and I have never had a problem with either one. It must be in your speedo set up like Adrian said...........
Keyence speed controlls are the best speed contoll on the market......
Keyence speed controlls are the best speed contoll on the market......
Last edited by RED-LINE M03; 09-05-2006 at 09:30 AM. Reason: .
#644
Tech Master
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,520
From: England
Does anyone have a view on ENSA setting/diodes?? specifically when running mod - 7 turn.
IIIRC, the manual says that with ENSA on stock setting (100) you shouldn't run any motor diodes - however, if you lower the value you can run diodes.
Has anyone tried both settings. I have a much more 55A diode pack sitting around that i have used with my KO speedo, but not tried ti with the Rapida.
I have been really struggling at the last couple of meetings with breaking - breaks fading during the run (motor heat i suspect), just wondering if running a big diode with the ENSA lower would help.
IIIRC, the manual says that with ENSA on stock setting (100) you shouldn't run any motor diodes - however, if you lower the value you can run diodes.
Has anyone tried both settings. I have a much more 55A diode pack sitting around that i have used with my KO speedo, but not tried ti with the Rapida.
I have been really struggling at the last couple of meetings with breaking - breaks fading during the run (motor heat i suspect), just wondering if running a big diode with the ENSA lower would help.



