101 kv difference is the lowest loss, and 3.95A cost vs 3.72A cost at 38 degrees(109kv loss)...I don't think lower amp difference by itself outweighs all the other parameters. I would prefer a little higher amps and better numbers everywhere else, specially the analyzer timing loaded vs unloaded...

Where I haven't tested a G5, I will add that a ROAR 25 13.5 HT was happiest at 36 when testing on a Fantom flywheel Dyno. That matches the load testing you did on the G5. On the Fantom, the ramp to peak rpm stretched out but to a higher number. That comes from the loss in bottom end torque. In my testing, this was the most dramatic change I have ever seen in years of testing. A 5 second time to peak vs 2.9 just on a difference from 38 to 36. Out of the box it was at 47. Wholly amp draw batman. Lol

I was lost on when you stated when acceleration was slower. Are you talking about setting it at a higher timing point will cause the motor to ramp up faster?

Do you mean 36 timing while loaded or unloaded ? It seems that the best performance on the G5 is achieved around 36.9 degree timing loaded, not far from your observations...I guess the out of the box timing settings are not backed by a dyno...

Factory settings are more of a ballpark setting. No motor is the same. There are even "Team Tuned" motors where the "Tuner" tested one motor, found the best spot, then tunes all the other motors with the same timing point. Too many factors come into play. For example, no two motors will have the same rotor gauss, I.R., impedance, etc... On top of all that, no two motors have the sensors in the exact same spot.

Wow...Best to treat every motor separately and redo all the testing everytime you change parts...

Yuuuuup..
With one brand, which was one of the best ones out, I tuned over a dozen of them. They were all different. Not very far off, but they were different.

Got it....I've got alot of motors to tinker with this summer...Cheers...

Sounds like you're going to have some fun!

This is when loaded. The Fantom is an acceleration dyno. A flywheel is attached to the motor and then a computer command gives the motor a 5 volt, almost unlimited amp (power source limit) start. The 13.5's that I tested pulled 90 amps initially. Enough that the lights dimmed for a second when that happened.
The dyno uses photoeyes to read the flywheel rpm as it accelerates. The computer program calculates actual torque and watts from those rpm readings due to the flywheel acceleration. Efficiency is also calculated since it knows the wattage going in compared to the wattage generated .
That's the process.
Over the 30+ years that I have used it, I have found that each motor has a sweet spot. I also learned how to look at the Tunealyser data and have a pretty good idea of a good timing spot. Again, it's experience but you are seeing it in the data shown.

One thing people need to understand is that proper gearing also goes along with the tuned motor. I have been mainly on-road locally since the local indoor clay track shut down but I have never been short on motor. I just recently got back into off-road on a true dirt track last week and was able to take the win and set hot lap in the Expert 4wd 13.5 class. All this was done with a motor brand I don't normally grab for in the sedan class. I used my Tunalyser to get it where I felt the sweet spot was for can timing. It's also on the very low side for rotor strength compared to what I normally run. I still used info from the Tekin datalogger to fine tune speedo settings and adjusted vehicle setup to get the feel I wanted. There's still a bit more so I will try to tap into it the next time out there. I know OffRoadJunkie tunes motors for some of the locals, but I don't know if they all run off-road carpet or if they like to play in the dirt as well. I plan to be back out to Auburn RC on the 2nd for some more fun. I expect to be even faster

To get max speed lots of factors come to play on top of driving in the zone flawlessly:
#1 : motor build and tuning.
#2 : correct gearing, gearmesh.
#3 : drivetrain efficiency, weight, bearing conditions, vibrations, etc...
#4 : tire balancing, weight, grip, etc...
#5 : esc/radio tuning, lipo battery prep, body aerodynamics, car setup, etc,...
#6 : perfect race strategy, accident avoidance, a little luck, etc...

You missed the most important point: Having the talent to drive flawlessly.

That develops over time with lots of practice, patience and drive to learn and apply with rigor...

I don't agree. Practice will help, but there are some people that just have better hand eye coordination. I've seen people that don't have good hand eye coordination and they practice and practice and never get much better. Sorry.