MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

LVBaja, I really like the colors and the scheme. Great job Bro!

LVBaja

Thanks MUDVAYNE. I dreampt up his paint scheme a while back and he liked it so much he wanted to stick with it for all his cars. The 3D looking green and yellow "bars" on the top surface are pretty unique so that he has no trouble spotting his car on the track, even when in traffic.

Bigedmond

iTrader: (20)

Yup. Its normally the car that is upside down.

MUDVAYNE

iTrader: (88)

Been there, done that.......................many times.

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

Here is one the i had rcfoolz do for me,i felt bad putting stickers on it

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Here is some work I did for RC Car Action:
Thanks to Lito for the Pics and for the opportunity!

LVBaja

Very cool. Seeing your stuff in a magazine must be very rewarding.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

It will be. I am not sure when the issue is out however. I have asked the guys at the mag to be especially critical of my work. You guys can as well be extra critical, as I love to improve.

I should be finishing up 3 more bodies this weekend, and with them my main goal was working on better headlights.

BTW I have a question, will reducing acrylics like Createx help atomize the paint? I use an HP-CS, even go so far as to warm up my garage and warm the paint, but it seems that my airbrush is not atomizing the paint like it should. I can spray paint down to as low as 10 psi, maybe a tad lower, but it seems to ever so slightly pulse at the lower psi. Doing headlights with bad atomization really frustrates me. I will need better atomization for shadows as well.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Heres a decent example of the poor atomization:
Pic taken with a crapberry

evanwest94

iTrader: (13)

Its a 1/12 350z Body that I painted a while back and now I am selling, it was the second body that I painted.





Spent $90 in total selling for a staring price of $50

LVBaja

Not sure what you mean by atomization, but I understand the pulsing you're referring to. I would imagine thinning down the paint and spraying at a low psi like you mentioned is going to be the best way to get fine detail for headlights like you want. If you're using the HP-CS, you may even want to get an airbrush with a finer tip that you could use specifically for headlights and extremely fine detail work like that. I'm not sure which model of Iwata you'd need, but I remember seeing ones specific to fingernail airbrushing when I was researching to get my own HP-CS. Maybe one with that type of tip would work better?

Justin Zorc

iTrader: (6)

Yes, the paint i use for fades is thinned near 1:1 with windex, i use the hp-cs as well, with the paint thinned like that it atomizes much better (for black and flourescents, colors like white and metallics need a larger tip). the .35mm tip the hp-cs comes with is also on the small side for acrylic paints like createx and faskolor i have been thinking of upsizing to a .5mm tip and needle.

Mark T.

iTrader: (20)

Use Auto-Air's 4011 reducer. It pretty much works with all water-based paints. Don't waste your time and money on home-made reducer's. Auto-Air's reducer is one of the best on the market.

NitroDirtMan

iTrader: (41)

Some blue camo a buddy and I did last night. Paint looks much better in person.

rezenclowd3

iTrader: (17)

Heres one of the definitions of atomization:
to reduce to fine particles or spray.

Alright, Ill thin it. First I will try clear windex, doesn't make sense to have a $4 order plus $7 for shipping from Coast Airbrush.

I believe KCDZIM just uses clear windex as well, and his atomization is great.