MarkA

iTrader: (21)

No, none of us are sponsored and yes, we are running stock. Last night for example, Kinwald's best lap in Pro Mod. Sedan was a 10.1 while mine was a 10.3 with a Stock Pan Car.

You can get the un-tuned P2k2's at Hobby People and then change the brushes/springs yourself. In fact, SoCal had about 10 P2k2's in the case Saturday Morning but I don't know if they're still there.

We get 3-4 weeks on front tires and 4-5 weeks on rears if you're easy on the dots/wall. A sedan gets roughly the same # of weeks on a set of thier tires at SoCal but here's the kicker: you can buy mounted, trued, and ready to go Foam Tires for as low as $11 a pair at SoCal. That means the rim and everything as opposed to $13-16 for a good pair of Sedan tires plus then you have to buy rims, inserts, and the time/trouble it takes to mount them. For an example of tire pricing, look at: http://rc4less.safeshopper.com/7/cat7.htm?3577 . Most of us run the "Green" compound listed under "standard."

The guys that have the tire truer mount thier own Foam tires. Then, a pair costs them about $5 since the rims are reusable but it's a pain in the rear. You don't otherwise need a truer for SoCal.

TPhalen

iTrader: (2)

Well, I have to say, the AE car is the best one there is...heh heh...just my opinion, though!!!

MarkA's car is by far the best out there. You can watch everyone else's car, but his is just the best handling.

As he said, though, the pan-car is harder to drive. If you can get some wheel time to tune it to your driving technique, it's possible to make it pretty easy to drive. But it does take some skill to drive it fast!!!

Mark, a couple of us are gonna break out our pan-cars and come play. Stock motors this time...heh heh It'll be a fun time...

wolfeman09

Mark you are always the TQ and winner

You rock at Pan Car, have you ever raced touring?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Tphalen - Yeah, I heard. I'm looking forward to it actually even if I get worked. Maybe we could run a Pro-Stock Pan Car when you guys are out if there are enough to justify it.

Wolfeman - I've ran Sedan 4 times in the last 2 years, always with borrowed cars though. I've won Sportsman Mod. once , finshed third in Pro Stock once , and broke twice .

rcethilon

MarkA, when your tires are 90% new and they get accidentally chipped or ripped a tiny bit, do you have any ways to repair them? Or do you just chuck them into garbage can?

MR4racer

Thanks MarkA and rcethilon for answering my questions.

rcethilon,
Sorry the GRP rear beam i was talking about, i actually meant : "Additional GRP rear leafspring comes with the car for extra tuning possibilities to suit all track conditions." It looks just the same as the leafspring with all the holes in it. I guess it is for use on low traction surfaces, as it has more flex than the standard one. Did you get one it your kit?

MarkA,
Its good to hear that i can use the TRC wheels/tyres because my LHS (also where i bought the car) says that the wont be stocking any more Corally products in the future. I had tried to email Corally also (not corallyusa though) but still haven't had a reply yet.

MR4racer

Something i forgot to ask, i still haven't got a body yet, what would you recomend?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

rcethilon - In my opinion, the unsightly rear tire chunks are 99% mental, 1% real performance loss. People see the ugly chunk missing and think the tire is bad, therefore they develop a mental block to running them. As long as the chunk is not too big, you'll never notice on the track. In fact, even still today sometimes, if someone who I run with wants to throw rear tires away because of a chunk, I'll take them and then promptly use them to beat whoever gave them to me. Heck, until a lot of the people at SoCal got over running a tire that "looks bad", I wasn’t paying for rear tires. So everyone at your track may laugh at you for running them or tell you that they're bad but you'll have the last laugh when you spend a lot less money in the long run.

To repair them though, what you can do is buy a pair of unmounted foam donuts of the same type as the tires you use. Cut a chunk out of the donut roughly the same size/shape as the missing chunk. Take a good contact cement and glue the new piece in the missing spot. After a few runs, the glue seam from where the new piece was glued in will disappear and unless someone knows where the chunk was, nobody will be able to tell. Several of the people I race with carry donuts around for this purpose and it seems to work pretty well although as I said earlier, most of us have come to realize that tire chunks are bigger cosmetic problem than they are a performance one.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

MR4Racer- Here’s my evaluation of the main GTP style Pan Car bodies that are out there:

For a fairly neutral handling body, use the Protoform P35 Nissan or the Protoform Peugeot 905B.

For a slightly high downforce, higher steering body, use the Associated Nissan shown at: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LX2711&P=7 .

For a low-ish downforce, very high steering body, run the Andy’s GTP Sauber at: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&I=LX1423&P=7 .

For a very high rear downforce, moderate front downforce body, you can try the Dahm’s Splice WSC at: http://www.dahms-intl.com/dah21a.html .

I’ve ran all of those at one point or another over the last 10 years and rank the Protoform P35 as the best for the tracks I currently run on but you’ll have to evaluate your what your track needs. You may also be able to get something outside of the US that I've never seen.

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Two more I forgot about. I haven’t personally ran these but this is what I've heard about them.

For an all around very low downforce body look at the PSE Rx792 GTP at: http://www.parmapse.com/rcitem.asp?n=99001

This PSE Mazda GTP body is supposed to be good for carpet but I've only ran carpet once in the last 10 years and that was a few weeks ago on a small 60x40 track in San Diego so I wouldn’t call myself a carpet expert. Anyway, here's the pic: http://www.parmapse.com/rcitem.asp?n=99036 .

rcethilon

MarkA I'm very impressed with your reputation and knowledge on pro10 bodies. I was going to ask what you would do if a chunk of foam is lost after you answered the 'tiny bit'. But you have already answered my second question. Thanks heaps.

This makes me feel much better because I've repaired them with a chunk from another same sort of foam tyres, glued them with black silicon and then trued them. To tell the truth you can spot the repair. But this does save me a lot of money.

I have never tried stock pro10. I have a 23T motor and I want to try and use it on my pro10. Supposed my rear tyre diameter is 62mm. MarkA what pinion and spur gear ratio would you recommend on an average size track?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

Before I start, note that stock in the US is 27t and I don't what you define as "average" for the track size; from the pics I've seen, most tracks in Europe are much larger than the ones in the US.

Ok, I'll run a pinion/spur ratio between 4.4and4.9 for a medium sized US style track on those tires.

That having been said, I usually guestimate my gear ratio for the first practice run and then adjust based on feel rather than calculating an elaborate rollout-based formula.

Probably wasn’t that much help but I don’t know enough about your particular motor type and track to give you more.

corally

hello

i nnew on this forum ,i live on italy,

i buy a c10x , and find all information for setup

thank

rcethilon

MarkA thanks heaps. I'll try that ratio next time on my 23T. Too bad I cannot see you perform. I've heard so much about SoCal too. This must be a terrific track. But I'm oceans away geographically.

There are so few people running pro10's in my locality that I have to explore and answer the questions I myself raise.

I swap left and right tyres every 2 battery packs. Do you do this?

I adjust the rear ride height to 4mm and the front about 3.5mm. The front tyres ware down faster than the rear as is always the case, the progressive decreasing diameter of the front tyres will have decreasing traction, but the corresponding progressive decrease in caster will tend to negate this effect by increasing initial turn-in. Hence we don't have to be too unduly concerned about the front tyres being worn down. This is just a thought. Do you agree?


When the rear tyres ware down and their diameters become smaller, would you bother using a larger pinion? What is the smallest rear tyre diameter you ever ware down to before you write them off?

MarkA

iTrader: (21)

I rotate the left and right tires about every 3-4 runs but if you're normally running mod. motors, 2 is probably more appropriate.

As far as the front tires wearing faster than the rears, that is a normal fact of life with these cars. Like you, I'm not really that concerned with it although I had never really thought of the tire wear affecting caster. Rather, as the tires wear, even during the course of a run if wear is extreme, you create a very slight downward rake that increases the weight on the front end. Or, at least, that's my theory.

As the rear tires wear, you do have to increase the pinion size. As far as how much of an increase, like I've said earlier, I go by feel on gearing rather than using any specific formula.

I've ran tires down to were the foam, glue, and rim meet before if you know what I mean. As long as the car doesn’t excessively bottom out and you can get enough bite, there's no reason not to.

BTW, you can see a pic of the track at SoCal at http://www.socalrc.com/images/orpano70.jpg . That should give you an idea of what we call “medium” sized in the US so you can see where I’m coming from on gearing.