Break-in Dutch

Old 03-06-2015, 07:28 AM
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Default Break-in Dutch

i saw something interesting from redrc, the break-in device is having the whole engine soaked with fluid with temperature and the shaft connected with a motor, computer controls rpm and probably temperature.
i just wonder how would the burr go away without scratching(staying) inside the engine.
http://www.redrc.net/2015/03/break-i...od/#more-93745
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by choisan View Post
i saw something interesting from redrc, the break-in device is having the whole engine soaked with fluid with temperature and the shaft connected with a motor, computer controls rpm and probably temperature.
i just wonder how would the burr go away without scratching(staying) inside the engine.
http://www.redrc.net/2015/03/break-i...od/#more-93745
didn't go through the heat cycle procedure,it may lost compression sooner than normal break in,maybe i'm wrong,please comments.
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:33 AM
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That's crazy


Pass you soon...
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by kyosho malaysia View Post
didn't go through the heat cycle procedure,it may lost compression sooner than normal break in,maybe i'm wrong,please comments.
True... No heat cycle...but this procedure is more in line with the Lapping method. (ie Clockwork engine break-in)

Pass you soon...
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Old 03-06-2015, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by kyosho malaysia View Post
didn't go through the heat cycle procedure,it may lost compression sooner than normal break in,maybe i'm wrong,please comments.
Heatcyle is a way but not needed. I only would advise when going to the track to do 1 or 2 tanks carefully because when the piston is realy heating up by the combustions there could be some grow in the piston.
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Old 03-06-2015, 09:41 AM
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A simplified version of this method was developed by one of the Grand Rapids dirt oval racers about 5 years ago , I have used the simplified method on and off to some degree of success over this time period but it does not complete the process , I've found you still need some track run-in to completely get a motor ready to race.
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Old 03-06-2015, 07:43 PM
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Interesting procedure. You guys didn't read, done with heated oil. It doesn't show the temp of oil. Still interesting.
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Geezatec View Post
Interesting procedure. You guys didn't read, done with heated oil. It doesn't show the temp of oil. Still interesting.
It looks like the temp of the oil is shown and controlled on the control box. Its the upper red/green display.
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Old 03-06-2015, 10:31 PM
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Is it fishtank hardware for temp monitoring? =)

Very interesting method.
Curious how such amount of oil along with temp affects front bearing.
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Old 03-07-2015, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Geezatec View Post
Interesting procedure. You guys didn't read, done with heated oil. It doesn't show the temp of oil. Still interesting.
it show 63.4'c at the last with 1000rpm,but micro engine's idle even more than that
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Old 03-07-2015, 03:46 AM
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Another vid tells it can handle up to 200 degrees.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J3k4...ature=youtu.be
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Old 03-07-2015, 06:55 AM
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I still think you need more rpm's to properly break-in an engine. Does the oil attack the rubber o-rings in the carb? maybe it's a non-petro based oil?


Pass you soon...
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Old 03-07-2015, 07:23 AM
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i am wondering if the are using a modified case end cap due to to the oil they are trapping in the lower end that old compressing a solid thing
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I still think you need more rpm's to properly break-in an engine. Does the oil attack the rubber o-rings in the carb? maybe it's a non-petro based oil?


Pass you soon...
Because no fuel is needed and no high rpm is used you can think op any type of oil from simple 5W40 car oil up to high racing oils or even hone oil.
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Old 03-07-2015, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
Because no fuel is needed and no high rpm is used you can think op any type of oil from simple 5W40 car oil up to high racing oils or even hone oil.
it will create scratches on piston due to the residual still capture in the lubricant
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