R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-16-2011, 09:55 PM   #1
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Default nova rossi ceramic bearing

Hi guys, is it true tat we have to warm up the ceremic bearing on the nova engine, before we can go full speed??? if yes, how long do i need to warm up for???
eldwin65 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2011, 10:04 PM   #2
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,861
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

You know how some people will start the car and then they really zing it up to clear it out before putting it on the track? Don't do that with a ceramic bearing. Small, brief little blips to keep it running until it gets a bit of temp in it. Then put it on the track, go easy for a lap or two and you should be fine.

It's not so much that you have to keep the rpm's down, you just don't want big, rapid rpm changes until it gets some heat in it. In other words, no hard free revving.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2011, 10:08 PM   #3
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Default nova

tks so much for yr info. tat reali helps bro
eldwin65 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-16-2011, 11:38 PM   #4
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 729
Default

Its not true, the heat is better to be in the entire engine before you go full pace, not just the sleeve or the bearings.
That's why you go around the track slow-ish to get some heat into it before you start tuning.
Ceramics require very little lubrication, especially full ceramic bearings, but the steel race ceramic bearings do require some more so the steel parts dont heat up and seize or wear out too fast.
__________________
Car-less (Velox V10 or 733) // RB T10.5"+" (JB Modified) // Bluebird BMS-990DMG (St) & BMS-631 (T/B) // ATS 16% // Capricorn Wheels // Protoform
"70% of the time, it works ALL the time"
DJ_Shakespear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 12:14 AM   #5
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,861
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ_Shakespear View Post
Its not true, the heat is better to be in the entire engine before you go full pace, not just the sleeve or the bearings.
What's not true? I never said go flat out cold. Quite the opposite.

Speaking specifically of the bearing, rapid rpm changes when cold cause the balls to skid, damaging the races. It's not rpm that hurts them, it's the rpm changes.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 12:35 AM   #6
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 729
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
What's not true? I never said go flat out cold. Quite the opposite.

Speaking specifically of the bearing, rapid rpm changes when cold cause the balls to skid, damaging the races. It's not rpm that hurts them, it's the rpm changes.
What Im saying, at least I think Im trying to say, is that in a ceramic VS steel bearing scenario, the ceramic does not need lubrication in the fuel to get it to perform well - they go all out no matter what, whereas the steel bearing needs a bit of lube and heat to get it to be at its best inside an engine.
The heat also gets the engine running best so that the tune it has doesn't (at least it shouldn't) change throughout the race, thats why you go a little richer during a 20+ minute race, so that it doesn't overheat causing damage and making the engine flame-out.
__________________
Car-less (Velox V10 or 733) // RB T10.5"+" (JB Modified) // Bluebird BMS-990DMG (St) & BMS-631 (T/B) // ATS 16% // Capricorn Wheels // Protoform
"70% of the time, it works ALL the time"
DJ_Shakespear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 12:37 AM   #7
Tech Champion
 
Roelof's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Holland
Posts: 6,282
Send a message via ICQ to Roelof
Default

The fresh fuel going through the crankshaft keeps it quite cool downstairs in the engine, if you do pre heat the engine it should be warm enough for the bearings.
__________________
The quality of an answer comes with the quality of the question.
Roelof is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 01:11 AM   #8
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 23
Default nova

ok guys, so wats the conclusion??? ceremic bearing needs warm up??? if yes, for how long??? 2 laps??? 1 lap???? still must thank all of your valuable info... tks guys
eldwin65 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 02:08 AM   #9
Tech Lord
 
wingracer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 12,861
Trader Rating: 24 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by eldwin65 View Post
ok guys, so wats the conclusion??? ceremic bearing needs warm up??? if yes, for how long??? 2 laps??? 1 lap???? still must thank all of your valuable info... tks guys
Ask ten different people and you will get ten different answers. What I was told by an actual bearing manufacturer is avoid rapid rpm changes (the zing, zing, zing on the starter box for example) especially when cold. I'll take his word over anyone's short of a Rossi himself.
__________________
Sean. Certified speed crazed mowron.
Team Shepherd USA
www.ashfordhobby.com
wingracer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 03:12 AM   #10
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 53
Default 10 Different Answers

Quote:
Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
Ask ten different people and you will get ten different answers. What I was told by an actual bearing manufacturer is avoid rapid rpm changes (the zing, zing, zing on the starter box for example) especially when cold. I'll take his word over anyone's short of a Rossi himself.
Wingracer is correct and Mr Rossi does agree with you if you go to the Novarossi Site and read the information available, I beleive it is under Warranty Care and Maintenance steel and ceramic no difference
fairgo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 03:41 AM   #11
Tech Regular
 
Kyle Hazell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 371
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ_Shakespear View Post
Its not true, the heat is better to be in the entire engine before you go full pace, not just the sleeve or the bearings.
That's why you go around the track slow-ish to get some heat into it before you start tuning.
Ceramics require very little lubrication, especially full ceramic bearings, but the steel race ceramic bearings do require some more so the steel parts dont heat up and seize or wear out too fast.
DJ,

You really need to pull your head in and stop poofing on with mis leading information on this forum.

Some of the rubbish posted that we have all seen is now wearing a little thin.

You know nothing about engines, nothing about modifying them and to top it all off your going to get your arse handed to you at the Vic State Titles in Melbourne next week end, in fact you will be lucky to make a 1/4 final.....

Do youself a favour, stop posting info that you clearly know nothing about, as right now you wouldn't know if a black dog was up you sideways........

Ciao

Kyle
__________________
ARC R8 RB - Blitz Kronos Tyres - Futaba
Kyle Hazell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 03:57 AM   #12
Tech Elite
 
Michael_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,083
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Michael_T
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Hazell View Post
DJ,

You really need to pull your head in and stop poofing on with mis leading information on this forum.

Some of the rubbish posted that we have all seen is now wearing a little thin.

You know nothing about engines, nothing about modifying them and to top it all off your going to get your arse handed to you at the Vic State Titles in Melbourne next week end, in fact you will be lucky to make a 1/4 final.....

Do youself a favour, stop posting info that you clearly know nothing about, as right now you wouldn't know if a black dog was up you sideways........

Ciao

Kyle
You beat me to it
__________________
Shepherd RC | Brilliant RC | Ielasi Tuned Novarossi | Xtreme Aerodynamics | Matrix |

BlueRC | www.bluerc.net
Michael_T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 04:00 AM   #13
Tech Elite
 
Michael_T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 4,083
Trader Rating: 48 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Michael_T
Default

Back on subject, there was quiet an interest read on this subject some time back. Basically, the ceramic balls were more prone to "skate/slip" prior to getting some heat and oil into them, hence why it wasn't recommeded to give them too much squirt from a cold start.
__________________
Shepherd RC | Brilliant RC | Ielasi Tuned Novarossi | Xtreme Aerodynamics | Matrix |

BlueRC | www.bluerc.net
Michael_T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 05:17 AM   #14
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 729
Default

whoa whoa whoa!! WTF is going on???
I never said "Im right, follow my advice and no-one elses" just putting in what I've read up!

I never said Im a pro modder either, just that I can do a few things to make an engine run better than stock, so who are you to start flaming me down like a tonne of bricks??? Just uncalled for...

So what's the deal??? Just tell Im wrong and correct me, that's how people learn. Sheesh..
__________________
Car-less (Velox V10 or 733) // RB T10.5"+" (JB Modified) // Bluebird BMS-990DMG (St) & BMS-631 (T/B) // ATS 16% // Capricorn Wheels // Protoform
"70% of the time, it works ALL the time"
DJ_Shakespear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2011, 06:48 AM   #15
Tech Regular
 
rias5037's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 388
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Hazell View Post
DJ,

You really need to pull your head in and stop poofing on with mis leading information on this forum.

Some of the rubbish posted that we have all seen is now wearing a little thin.

You know nothing about engines, nothing about modifying them and to top it all off your going to get your arse handed to you at the Vic State Titles in Melbourne next week end, in fact you will be lucky to make a 1/4 final.....

Do youself a favour, stop posting info that you clearly know nothing about, as right now you wouldn't know if a black dog was up you sideways........

Ciao

Kyle

YO, EASY GUYS, PLAY NICE
__________________
Serpent 747, Max .12 xxl3, Nova 2630, Contact-rc.
rias5037 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
anyone here got an SH Engine Pro 21 Onroad With Handmade Crankshaft/Ceramic Piston kyoshoevolvam3 Nitro On-Road 8 12-04-2010 09:34 AM
Nova rossi Toro Nero...FMS r1harper Nitro Off-Road 85 01-21-2010 01:26 PM
Front Bearing in Nova rossi losiracer78 Nitro Off-Road 9 02-08-2009 09:52 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 04:14 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net