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-   -   nova rossi ceramic bearing (https://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-nitro-engine-zone/471986-nova-rossi-ceramic-bearing.html)

eldwin65 01-16-2011 08:55 PM

nova rossi ceramic bearing
 
Hi guys, is it true tat we have to warm up the ceremic bearing on the nova engine, before we can go full speed??? if yes, how long do i need to warm up for???

wingracer 01-16-2011 09:04 PM

You know how some people will start the car and then they really zing it up to clear it out before putting it on the track? Don't do that with a ceramic bearing. Small, brief little blips to keep it running until it gets a bit of temp in it. Then put it on the track, go easy for a lap or two and you should be fine.

It's not so much that you have to keep the rpm's down, you just don't want big, rapid rpm changes until it gets some heat in it. In other words, no hard free revving.

eldwin65 01-16-2011 09:08 PM

nova
 
tks so much for yr info. tat reali helps bro

DJ_Shakespear 01-16-2011 10:38 PM

Its not true, the heat is better to be in the entire engine before you go full pace, not just the sleeve or the bearings.
That's why you go around the track slow-ish to get some heat into it before you start tuning.
Ceramics require very little lubrication, especially full ceramic bearings, but the steel race ceramic bearings do require some more so the steel parts dont heat up and seize or wear out too fast.

wingracer 01-16-2011 11:14 PM


Originally Posted by DJ_Shakespear (Post 8499248)
Its not true, the heat is better to be in the entire engine before you go full pace, not just the sleeve or the bearings.

What's not true? I never said go flat out cold. Quite the opposite.

Speaking specifically of the bearing, rapid rpm changes when cold cause the balls to skid, damaging the races. It's not rpm that hurts them, it's the rpm changes.

DJ_Shakespear 01-16-2011 11:35 PM


Originally Posted by wingracer (Post 8499346)
What's not true? I never said go flat out cold. Quite the opposite.

Speaking specifically of the bearing, rapid rpm changes when cold cause the balls to skid, damaging the races. It's not rpm that hurts them, it's the rpm changes.

What Im saying, at least I think Im trying to say, is that in a ceramic VS steel bearing scenario, the ceramic does not need lubrication in the fuel to get it to perform well - they go all out no matter what, whereas the steel bearing needs a bit of lube and heat to get it to be at its best inside an engine.
The heat also gets the engine running best so that the tune it has doesn't (at least it shouldn't) change throughout the race, thats why you go a little richer during a 20+ minute race, so that it doesn't overheat causing damage and making the engine flame-out.

Roelof 01-16-2011 11:37 PM

The fresh fuel going through the crankshaft keeps it quite cool downstairs in the engine, if you do pre heat the engine it should be warm enough for the bearings.

eldwin65 01-17-2011 12:11 AM

nova
 
ok guys, so wats the conclusion??? ceremic bearing needs warm up??? if yes, for how long??? 2 laps??? 1 lap???? still must thank all of your valuable info... tks guys

wingracer 01-17-2011 01:08 AM


Originally Posted by eldwin65 (Post 8499523)
ok guys, so wats the conclusion??? ceremic bearing needs warm up??? if yes, for how long??? 2 laps??? 1 lap???? still must thank all of your valuable info... tks guys

Ask ten different people and you will get ten different answers. What I was told by an actual bearing manufacturer is avoid rapid rpm changes (the zing, zing, zing on the starter box for example) especially when cold. I'll take his word over anyone's short of a Rossi himself. :D

fairgo 01-17-2011 02:12 AM

10 Different Answers
 

Originally Posted by wingracer (Post 8499629)
Ask ten different people and you will get ten different answers. What I was told by an actual bearing manufacturer is avoid rapid rpm changes (the zing, zing, zing on the starter box for example) especially when cold. I'll take his word over anyone's short of a Rossi himself. :D

Wingracer is correct and Mr Rossi does agree with you if you go to the Novarossi Site and read the information available, I beleive it is under Warranty Care and Maintenance steel and ceramic no difference

Kyle Hazell 01-17-2011 02:41 AM


Originally Posted by DJ_Shakespear (Post 8499248)
Its not true, the heat is better to be in the entire engine before you go full pace, not just the sleeve or the bearings.
That's why you go around the track slow-ish to get some heat into it before you start tuning.
Ceramics require very little lubrication, especially full ceramic bearings, but the steel race ceramic bearings do require some more so the steel parts dont heat up and seize or wear out too fast.

DJ,

You really need to pull your head in and stop poofing on with mis leading information on this forum.

Some of the rubbish posted that we have all seen is now wearing a little thin.

You know nothing about engines, nothing about modifying them and to top it all off your going to get your arse handed to you at the Vic State Titles in Melbourne next week end, in fact you will be lucky to make a 1/4 final.....

Do youself a favour, stop posting info that you clearly know nothing about, as right now you wouldn't know if a black dog was up you sideways........

Ciao

Kyle

Michael_T 01-17-2011 02:57 AM


Originally Posted by Kyle Hazell (Post 8499782)
DJ,

You really need to pull your head in and stop poofing on with mis leading information on this forum.

Some of the rubbish posted that we have all seen is now wearing a little thin.

You know nothing about engines, nothing about modifying them and to top it all off your going to get your arse handed to you at the Vic State Titles in Melbourne next week end, in fact you will be lucky to make a 1/4 final.....

Do youself a favour, stop posting info that you clearly know nothing about, as right now you wouldn't know if a black dog was up you sideways........

Ciao

Kyle

You beat me to it :lol:

Michael_T 01-17-2011 03:00 AM

Back on subject, there was quiet an interest read on this subject some time back. Basically, the ceramic balls were more prone to "skate/slip" prior to getting some heat and oil into them, hence why it wasn't recommeded to give them too much squirt from a cold start.

DJ_Shakespear 01-17-2011 04:17 AM

whoa whoa whoa!! WTF is going on???
I never said "Im right, follow my advice and no-one elses" just putting in what I've read up!

I never said Im a pro modder either, just that I can do a few things to make an engine run better than stock, so who are you to start flaming me down like a tonne of bricks??? Just uncalled for...

So what's the deal??? Just tell Im wrong and correct me, that's how people learn. Sheesh..

rias5037 01-17-2011 05:48 AM


Originally Posted by Kyle Hazell (Post 8499782)
DJ,

You really need to pull your head in and stop poofing on with mis leading information on this forum.

Some of the rubbish posted that we have all seen is now wearing a little thin.

You know nothing about engines, nothing about modifying them and to top it all off your going to get your arse handed to you at the Vic State Titles in Melbourne next week end, in fact you will be lucky to make a 1/4 final.....

Do youself a favour, stop posting info that you clearly know nothing about, as right now you wouldn't know if a black dog was up you sideways........

Ciao

Kyle


YO, EASY GUYS, PLAY NICE;)


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