In the past I've been asking the possibility to rebuild JP FX5 with Novarossi NSR12 S5 p/s/r complete set ?? It works perfectly. I have tried mine for 1 hour racing. The idle is good, the maximum rpm is good, and no flame out..... just like a normal engine should be.

I'm pretty sure JP FX3 + NSR12 S5 p/s/r is okay too. Let me try it sometime in future.

Hi Guys, Just got myself one of the coolest engine. Yup the FX5port. A wonderful engine.

Having said that, i do have an issue and was hoping some you JP gurus can share light....

I ran it in about 5 tanks on low rpm and another 5 on high rpm. Then took it out to the track for another 6 tanks while leaning out the main needle to get it about 110C temp.

Next day took it out for the local club race and experience a little problem in the low end. It was choking with a lot of smoke on 1st gear and took awhile to move it into 2nd gear. But when it did shift into 2nd, the awesome power came to life! (that's why i bought the JP )

In the next qualifying i leaned the main needle just a gentle 5-10mins and it solved the startling problem on 1st gear. It punched out like a rocket and shifted into 2nd very smoothly with increasing speed. Beautiful. But after a 5 min qualifying set the car came in high revving. There was still quite a bit of fuel left in the tank. It was overheating. Check the temp and it was around 150c!

Is the engine that sensitive and tempremental? Someone told me that this engine needs to run a couple of races before it really sets in - is this true? SHould i just lean the bottom end gradually to get enough low end power and keep the main needle at a rich setting? Can someone help. thanks.

Why are you touching the main needle (top end) when your having a low end problem?

Richen up your main needle and lean your lower needle but if your a newb i suggest you get it done by some 1 with more experience.

Damn! You could have damaged your Piston and Sleeve!
If the power was ok in high speed you should have not leaned the ''high speed needle".

My advise: Open the engine(or have it opened) and check the piston and sleeve for scratches. If any, the engine will run again, but it would have lost compression... (only noticeable by experienced racers)


Sorry to be quite on the negative side, but I've seen this happen lots of times....

Yes you can try above ideas, it is better if you also give information about glow plug number and your fuel's nitro content.

Thanks Guys for all the info.

I was told by one of the experts at the track to lean the top needle that's why. But i knew i read somewhere not to touch the top and only lean the bottom needle.

Anyways, i'll do as advised and open the engine to check for scratches.

Last race i ran the following:

1. plug 7
2. 25% nitro
3. 6mm inline Mielke pipe
4. 5.4mm venturi insert (this is standard right?)

Just can't figure out why he told u that? Ain't he a engine dealer?(kidding)
Gplug and fuel are ok...
Just check for scratches on the sleeve, piston sides. Also check the colour of the piston head. It must be some sort of whisky - caramel colour...

Hi, I have an old JP black RS12 3 port engine thats no longer has compression, so I'm on the look out for a new set. I gather the JP FX T-03 Modified P/S/R set will fit but will the ports on the sleeve match up with the channels on the RS12's crankcase.
I mean how different is the inside of the RS12's crankcase compared to the new FX's.
The engine was really very fast b4 it lost comp and I would love to get it back to the way it was, any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers

SALE

Hey guys, long time since I've been in here.....local on-road racing died. I haven't raced the car since Labor Day Weekend last year at the 2004 On-Road Nationals in Toledo, Ohio. Not even cranked up Mike Swauger's motor (won it in a raffle).

I'm forced to sell out all of my on-road goodies.

For sale on Ebay........ends on Sunday July 31 at 9:30pm EST

JP Mod X-12 - MIKE SWAUGER'S 2004 Nationals Motor
Ebay Item # - 5989708683

MTX-3 PROSPEC - LOADED with aftermarket goodies
Ebay Item # - 5989708978


PROSPEC 0.8 Pinion Gears - Complete Set with Xtras
Ebay Item # - 5989708744

PROSPEC 0.8 Spur Gears - Complete Set with Xtras
Ebay Item # - 5989709068

Standard Pinion Gears - Complete Set (15 Thru 23)
Ebay Item # - 5989709082

Standard Spur Gears - Complete Set
Ebay Item # - 5989709055

PROSPEC Clutch - MIKE SWAUGER'S 2004 Nationals Clutch
Ebay Item # - 5989708944

Mugen Factory Pipe - MIKE SWAUGER'S 2004 Nationals pipe
Ebay Item # - 5989708634

Sirio .12 Turbo 3-port engine - Raced Only Once
Ebay Item # - 5989708600

Set of 4 Shocks
Ebay Item # - 5989708579

Complete Spring Kit - Includes ALL Mugen Springs
Ebay Item # - 5989708720

I also have MANY other items listed....TIRES, TOOLS, PARTS, along with some other things not yet listed such as more shocks and other CLUTCHES.

My ebay userID is mbivens924 , please view all of my items for details.

You may PM with questions if you like. I regret that I never even got to crank up Mike's motor and race it......should be great fun for someone....for this year I've converted to offroad....with an MBX-5 PROSPEC and JP B-8T of course......

Yeah Bandeira, now that you mention - he's probably one of the LHS guys!! Gee!!

Actually i've also added a 0.1 head shim before running on track as i was told it would protect the engine especially when it's still new and the compression is good. Is this correct?

Need some indications on plug too - What if the plug is black or metallic like new? What does these indicate?

Can i save the engine if the sleeve and piston has scratches or did i just blow my money??

More importantly - apart from monitoring engine temp when i head out to the track next, what else should i do to ensure i don't screw up the engine again.
Is there are simple process like check idle, then low end and only later adjust the main needle for top end?

Thanks and appreciate all the help and guidance bandeira.

Damn, wish i knew you guys before i got this engine. Sigh...

more shims = less compression = less heat = happy engine, but you sacrifice a little engine performance.

your engine is running nice and rich, as it should be when your breaking in an engine, if the glow plug wire is grey your running lean not good when your still running it in, if the wires distorted or damage your engine is running seriously hot!!


depends how deep the scratches are, i've know a few people run engines with scratches on the sleeve and there engines still run well.


ALWAYS make sure a good bit of smoke is coming out the exhaust, this indicates that your engine is getting enough lubrication. This IMO is more critical than keeping an eye on engine temperature. I doubt you have damaged your engine when you briefly ran it at 150c, as long as you were running it nice and rich.

Quite agree with Hesky but... If there is too much head clearance, it will protect your conrod but the engine will be far from perfect tune. The low end tuning can get quite difficult if you have too much head clearance. You should check the piston top colour(aim for whisky-caramel - if too dark=>too much HC.; if too light=> u need more HC)

Some people use ordering to tune the engine... I personally don't...
I set the low end like this: Heat up the engine, accel it to near full speed(don't let it screeeeeam) then release the trigger and wait like 15~20 seconds... Then pull the trigger again... If the engine bogs down and does a lot of smoke - you should lean the low end needle... If it cuts and no smoke is coming, you need to make ir richer...
Don't forget that any adjustment in the HighSpeed Needle(HSN) , you affect the LowSpeedNeedle... Like if your car is too rich in top end.... But ok in lowend... You should like For example lean the HSN a 5 minutes and open the LSN the same 5 minutes... Got it?

About the scratches... The engine will run ok... get you finger and feel them... If you can feel them, Is kinda bad... you can really still run it in local club racing... Also check for Piston's top porosity...

About the tuning in general... Nowadays engines don't seem to ''like'' to run hotter than 110c... I've had engines that would lose performance if over 100c.. It prefered to work at about 90~95...
The top engine tuners and modders say that you should stay below 110... And i'm not talking about unknown ppl... Im talking about JP, RB, etc...


Hope I could help you... any other doubts...

Thanks Hesky, Bandeira - you guys have been very helpful and i'm enlighthen now Especially the above tip on HSN and LSN tunning. Thanks Chaps!

Will take note of all those things mention the next time i head to track.

Just a little more to clairfy...

1. If the plug and filamen are black and slightly moist - would assume that it's too rich right? It should be slightly brown and golden for ideal indiciation right?

2. What if i ran without the 5.4mm carb insert (standard venturi) - this would change the A/F mixture right? How do i balance this with the right pipe choice? i.e. 5.2mm, 6mm or 7mm stinger? Basically how do you guys select the right pipe and carb insert settings and for which track conditions (technical vs long/wide tracks)? Was told to use larger stinger pipe for larger tracks with maximum venturi and opposites for smaller tracks - is this correct?

3. Fuel consumption during a heat or race is another common issue - was told to lean the HSN if fuel consumption was too high and could not last 5min heat - is this correct or do i also need to consider carb insert and pipe selection to manage fuel consumption besides tuning engine?

Sorry for getting so detailed here and anal perhaps - but really am eager to know more about this.

Thanks chaps.

Slightly dull grey, with the wire in good shape means your engine is running perfect.

The actual tune of the pipe (short for large open tracks, long for short twisty tracks) will make more difference than the size of the stinger, but of course a larger stinger will be less restrictive and let the engine rev more. There really is no real correlation between the carb restrictor and stinger size, running no carb insert will give you more rpm but less bottom end ive found, you will also need to tweak the fueling.
I only run a venturi restrictor and a small ID stinger when forced to by a race event.
leaning the hsn off will of course reduce fuel consumption but there lies another potential problem. Carb insert and pipe selection will alter mileage but not much, throttle control is alway a good start.

1. Yep, you are running rich. You want the plug to have no physical abnormalities (broken or compressed coil) and the color should be a little darker than the plug itself (so long as your plug is the normal aluminum color).
2. If you were changing to the 5.4 venturi carb, yes, you would have to retune the motor. However, the carb insert is a seperate tuning aid from the size of your pipe's stinger, having no noticable relation between one another.
3. You should always tune your motor the same. You may choose to deviate from the optimum tune for many reasons, but leaning out the hsn to make time is not the best idea. There are other things you can alter to make time... and as Hesky pointed out the best way to make time is learn to save gas by driving smooth.
Certain pipes will give you better mileage, but pipes are $$$ and as an un-sponsored dude, I can't pack an arsenal of pipes to my club race but at major events all the stops are pulled out.