Hi Dennis! Just checking in, interested in the Winter NATS?

How did engine/car perform ??

Bob

I wonder if I'll see these at the WRAM show. A little skeptical about buying any engine from there as if I have a problem or it's missing something I can't return it.

I would think RD would have the best customer service out there for now.

Dennis, still interested in the new pipe 0505.

Motorman, do you have any articles or write ups on how to select the correct glow plugs? This isn't a "What's the best plug..." type question. I understand (I think) what a warmer or cooler glow plug does, why it does it, how it affects timing etc, but i think i'm having trouble selecting the right one. Info i'm looking for is like characteristics to look for that would "tell" me that i'm using too hot/cold of a plug. Today for example i was totally short on run time. My engine usually makes 5 minutes no problem. but at barely 4:15 today i was dry for example. It Also ran pretty hot. I'm in Miami fl, today was in the upper 70's with pretty dry contitions. I ran a 7tf plug. I'm running a JP with a new piston/sleeve touched up by Maxy & 30% Maxy's Fuel. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Gonzo, this might help.......

The numbers and characters on the plugs, are the product number, wire thickness, and thermal range of the plug’s body. Example: The Novarossi C6TG (F) or (C)

§ Product: C (Candele)
§ Wire Thickness: 6
§ Plug Type: T (Turbo)
§ Plated: G (Gold)
§ Thermal Range: F (Fredda = Cold)) C (Calda = Hot)

The plugs with cold thermal range F(Fredda), have a body with thinner walls and shorter body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head.

How to select the proper plug, regardless of Nitro %

·When the ambient temperature is high, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.

·Humidity determines if we use a Cold (F) thermal range, or Hot (C) thermal range.

·With high humidity percentage we should use a Hot (C) thermal range plug.

·If we have high temperature and high humidity, we should use a plug with thick wire and a Hot(C) thermal range.

The best instrument to determine which Turbo Plug to use, is those weather panels they sell for Yachts, that have Temperature, Humidity and Barometric Pressure on them. Have it calibrated at your local weather station, and you’re ready like the Pros.
That is the key to success or failure tuning engines with Turbo Glow Plugs, because they are so sensitive to weather variations that is unbelievable.

Following is a selection chart for Novarossi Turbo Glow Plugs

Type Thermal Range Nitro% Temp.C° Humidity%
C5TGC Hot/hot wire 10-20 0-10 70-100
C6TGC Hot/average wire 10-20 10-16 70-100
C7TGC Hot/cold wire 20-30 16-25 70-100
C8TGC Hot/ultra cold wire 20-30 25-up 70-100
C5TGF Cold/hot wire 20-30 0-10 40-70
C6TGF Cold/average wire 20-30 10-15 40-70
C7TGF Cold/cold wire 20-up 16-25 40-70
C8TGF Cold/ultra cold wire 20-up 25-up 40-70


AFM

Thanks, AFM. I've seen this before. But what I'm looking for is "signs" or characteristics to look for that help determine if you're using the wrong plug.

When using a hot glow plug (low number, so thinner wire) the engine will give more RPM so it will be faster on top end then when you use a colder glow plug, however because the wire is thinner it can deform and break more easier.
When using a cold glow plug (high number, so thinner wire) the engine will give more torque (low end punch) then when you use a hotter glow plug.
Take the glow plug away and look at the thread :
1) If the spiral of the plug is a little bit pressed and bent it means that the engine is too compressed. If you are racing on a sea level track, with 25% or more nitro, it could be the main reason. Than you need to check under head shims and in that case insert a 0.1 mm shim.
2) If the thread of the plug, or the head has a dull, as sanded look, it means that the carburation is too lean, or you have a plug that is to hot, causing pre-ignition. You run the risk of breaking the spiral and make it fall down on the top end of the piston, damaging also the sleeve.
3) If the thread has a dark colour and the plug seems humid, the carburation is too rich and the engines does not work at its best. You have to lean the carburation closing the full speed needle.
4) When the thread is polished and the spiral does not present any imperfections, your plug is OK, and carburation is ok.

AFM

How about like running characteristics? Overheating, bad Idle, Low Run time. The plug tips only work with a new plug.

Those are a combination of factors, weather, carb, nitro, pipe, gearing, compression etc.

There is a a correct plug (check the table) for an engine which starts with correct shimming (compression) for the nitro you use.
Then weather conditions determine if you use cold or hot body.
And fine tuning depends on what you are looking high end or low end. Then you have to carburate accordingly. Of course if you have hot weather, and or hot and dry, and or hot and humid, or viceversa, and you have improper plug , engine will overheat, running time will decrease, idle becomes erratic, etc. Tips work the same with a good used plug. A faulty plug will show immediately, with car not wanting to start or dying out of nowhere or backfiring.

AFM

i have this pipe what is it top mid or low http://www.rdlogics.com/cgi-bin/cate...10L&type=store

I believe that is the original Turbo 1 pipe. Not as much top end as the turbo 2 and mot as much bottom as the 62505 which is the pipe used by the RD team in Florida.

thanks

please!!! need help w/ my bottom end. how many turns do you have your low end needle from a close positon? i'd really appreciate the help.

I see Denis has bee in the forums some lately, but not in his engine forum... What's up with that????