i am really sorry, can you please resend it. I am afraid it got lost in 50+ emails and PMs i recive everydday.
As I remember I sent you free p/l set because you won some race in UK using BRB set you got from Geoff-am I right?

Edward,

Finally my parcel arrived. keke... btw, uniquexme & Desmond is me. haha.. maybe because i use uniquexme as a nick and email, so u are all mixed up. anyway, i am glad that u sent out the parts, and even some bonus parts. thanks Ed for being so generous. gotta treat u for a drink if we have chance. haha..

Glad to hear the tunning work well for you

FYI, the weather here is getting cooler down to 18 to 20C. Now I use 0.32mm head shim on 25 or 30% nitro with great result. The Engine temp I am running now is around 95C.

When I ran the PR12, I too had thought the front bearing was leaking. I modified the case like Edward said and I still had the problem. When I trusted what Edward was saying that the engine was too rich on the bottom, I changed the tune and found it to be a great little performer. I just wish I had listened to Edward in the first place and saved myself the frustration.

I think people should stop trying to take advantage of Edward's generous nature and realise that these engines don't last forever and you shouldn't expect free parts whenever you feel like it.

I'll have to order another bimetal set for my engine one of these days.

Cheers,

Mike.

What clearance have you guys been running withn 16% nitro ???
I have shimmed my engines to .35 on one and .4 on another.

Hi ed
pm sent

you gave me a free p/l set and i purchased a second one .

Thanks

Hi Jerome.
I remeber it very well.
I just sent you PM back
Edward

tuning LSN. guys, how do u know that ur LSN is perfectly tuned? coz i have heard so much about BRB / Palmaris has different tunning from other engine. my mate told me that he has concluded that on average, we need to have about 3-3.5 turn on LSN (meaning u lean it to the max, then turn rich it by 3 turns), but i have no idea. so he checked mine (which i have tuned, and is have with its power), with 2-2.5 turns. so he rich it by 1 full turn, gonna test it today (hope it doesn't rain, coz its been raining everyday here).

from wat i know for japanese engine is that u tune the LSN to the point that it gets overheat (u will hear the engine singing), then u richen it a bit. but for palmaris, really have no idea. all i know is that u need to get LSN super lean.

Edward, i haven't replace the bearing and crankshaft, coz i m still waiting for your file on the crankcase. i really dun have the tools and skills to do the mod on the case, pls help me out, can we exchange the case? coz i really really thought that u are sending me the case. n now, after receiving ur parts, i m still stuck. i m sure replacing those parts alone aren't going to stop the oil leakage.

Desmond, replace the shaft and bearing and your problem will be solved. Try before give up.
Edward

Ed, i will try to replace it and let u know. but do u need me to take a photo of the case when i remove the old front bearing?

Hi Desmond.
Yes please take photo and send it to me on email.

Desmond, the mod for the crankcase really isn't difficult. I've never mod'ed an engine but I've done a couple cases. Please give it a try, it should get rid of your problem.

all rite, since u guys said that its so easy, i shall give it a try this week. hope it work out. but may i know wat tools i need so that i can get it today.

Desmond, if you need assistance, I mention before that you can pm me your number and I can call you since we are on the same time zone.
This mod is easy unless you have not used a "file" before..... so dont tell me

Again, only a prevention. I have been running these crankcase without mod and all require is you tune the bottom needle properly, on the leaner side if you compare to other brand. It leave oil residue after run but it wont affect tunning or performace. The good side the front bearing will last lot longer.

For people interested, the Tuning Ive been doing on BRB and Bi metal have been working great for me. All require is to pay more attention on Bottom needle. If your carb is way out of tune, then start tunning with the Main needle first but here I assume your engine will run!
I will start warming up the engine until operation temp , then tune the bottom needle so that when idle the engine for 10 sec, it will cleanly accelerate without hesitation. ( but still smoke). Then lean it again until it will idle for 15 sec then cleanly accerlrate. I know people use pitch the fuel line method but I could not get good result so far but the idea behind it the same. The main needle will change if you lean a lot on the bottom to make that happen so please read temp or listen at the track to see any sign of overheat.
Since the Temp here in Hong Kong have cool a lot, about 18C, I have been using 0.3mm head shim down from 0.5mm( sorry no clearance.. too lazy to buy a solidering iron ) for 25% Nitro.

I am changing gear ratio to 17/22 60/56 on my 720 this week ( down from 17/23) . because of the layout of our track require a lot of Mid range power.

This week will be a big race, the Kyosho Cup final with Team Kyosho driver coming from Japan... will see how our HongKee up agaist the best from Japan. Good racing Guys