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Old 05-24-2009, 10:14 PM   #31
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some engines are too efficient like extechs , they run at like 175-200 with way too hard of a powerband . i like 220-250 and smooth powerband , anywhere in that range , i am happy
Never used them engines before I don't get all wrapped in temps too many things can change that. Like running a M/T they tend to run very warm. I go by sound, smoke and reading the glow plug. The glow plug gives a better showing what is going on inside the engine. But smoke thing has changed alot since the most fuels are using syn oil now. That low oil content fuel which is better IMO all that extra oil tends to make them run warmer oil don't burn.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:29 PM   #32
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So i have a question regarding the procedure for applying ARO in the original post... What type, if any, ARO should you use in an engine with a silicone filled crank such as the OS Speed? Would petrolium based ARO's react with the silicone filling?

I have wondered this for some time now, and as such, have not used ARO on my 2 Speeds for fear of ruining the crankshaft!
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:57 PM   #33
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So i have a question regarding the procedure for applying ARO in the original post... What type, if any, ARO should you use in an engine with a silicone filled crank such as the OS Speed? Would petrolium based ARO's react with the silicone filling?

I have wondered this for some time now, and as such, have not used ARO on my 2 Speeds for fear of ruining the crankshaft!
imo , use rbmods stuff , it is the best

imo , you are right about petroleum based oils .


just my opinion
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Old 05-28-2009, 11:55 PM   #34
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Great Thread!!!!


Pete.
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:53 PM   #35
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So this GMK ARO is it OK for to use on a speed or no?
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Old 06-04-2009, 02:11 AM   #36
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OS VG's are made with cheap materials. The sleeve is made of nickel. Even with a good tune its hard to get a good life span out of them. Also its hard to pinch them because the sleeve wears down so much
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Old 06-04-2009, 10:00 AM   #37
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i have a NR 3 port. it is running on a near perfect tune. runs great.... except it want to lose fire. it may go 5 laps and die and the next time it will only go a half lap. it usually dies on an impact like a jump or a crash. it will also die coming out of a corner. after i get out of the fuel and then i get back in. usually sounds like i just ran out of fuel on a perfect tune. ?????????? the engine has 1.5 gallons on it. has good pinch.????????

please help.
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Old 06-04-2009, 11:11 AM   #38
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i have a NR 3 port. it is running on a near perfect tune. runs great.... except it want to lose fire. it may go 5 laps and die and the next time it will only go a half lap. it usually dies on an impact like a jump or a crash. it will also die coming out of a corner. after i get out of the fuel and then i get back in. usually sounds like i just ran out of fuel on a perfect tune. ?????????? the engine has 1.5 gallons on it. has good pinch.????????

please help.
try a different plug , that is all i can say for now
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Old 06-04-2009, 01:18 PM   #39
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this is helpful very helpful..thank goodness for the veterans of this hobby
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Old 06-04-2009, 06:31 PM   #40
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a very helpful thread tks for all the info
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:42 AM   #41
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i have a NR 3 port. it is running on a near perfect tune. runs great.... except it want to lose fire. it may go 5 laps and die and the next time it will only go a half lap. it usually dies on an impact like a jump or a crash. it will also die coming out of a corner. after i get out of the fuel and then i get back in. usually sounds like i just ran out of fuel on a perfect tune. ?????????? the engine has 1.5 gallons on it. has good pinch.????????

please help.
Does the flywheel protrude thru the chassis or come close to protruding? It might be stalling when the chassis slaps the ground? What diameter flywheel are you using and what typa of car? Some cars, like Xrays and Team Magics use smaller flywheels than others...

I've had this problem with some of my car and a smaller flywheel has solved it!
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Old 06-09-2009, 11:44 PM   #42
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Questions?? Correct method to shut the engine down

Houston,

I have a question for you. Some of the local racers here just returned from the Hank Perry Race in Spokane and they were informed from more than one Pro racer to not touch the flywheel to shut the engine off. They were told that method is hard on the rod. I'm not trying to start anything here, but that doesn't sound logical about the rod IMO. These guys were told to cover the exhaust pipe stinger to shut the engine off is a better method. I know that can cause a hydraulic lock in the cylinder and dissagree with this method. Am I wrong?

What is your opinion and reasons? Thank you for your time.
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:13 AM   #43
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Houston,

I have a question for you. Some of the local racers here just returned from the Hank Perry Race in Spokane and they were informed from more than one Pro racer to not touch the flywheel to shut the engine off. They were told that method is hard on the rod. I'm not trying to start anything here, but that doesn't sound logical about the rod IMO. These guys were told to cover the exhaust pipe stinger to shut the engine off is a better method. I know that can cause a hydraulic lock in the cylinder and dissagree with this method. Am I wrong?

What is your opinion and reasons? Thank you for your time.
when the idle is all the way down i touch the flywheel and its dead , i then bottom out the piston every time i shut down within a second .

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Last edited by houston; 06-13-2009 at 01:02 PM.
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:07 AM   #44
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hi guys,
what could've caused the nitro in the tubing to 'back flow' when i crank it on the starterbox?

it's was fine 10mins ago but after it stalls and when i tried restarting, it just wouldnt start anymore and i notice the nitro would 'back flow' and my nitro line will be empty of nitro...

even if i tried covering the exhaust and managed to pump nitro into the carb, the nitro would 'back flow' again when i crank it on the box!
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:05 PM   #45
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Check your temps
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