Novarossi engines thread
#5191
Tech Adept
after having my mito 35 for 3 months novarossi decided they do not
warrantry replacement rods or the damage they cause to your engine
when they fail.they could of said this with out even looking at my engine.
novarossi if you read this you really need to work on your customer sevice?
warrantry replacement rods or the damage they cause to your engine
when they fail.they could of said this with out even looking at my engine.
novarossi if you read this you really need to work on your customer sevice?
#5192
Running in Mito35WCS
Folks,
I've been reading up on breaking in my fresh un-factory broken Mito35 (ps, thanks santa!) and can see from the forum 2 clear schools of thought, although some time has passed since updates on the Sir Ron Paris bible. So a question to all the Nova guys, what's the preferred method for the engine considering build quality and materials of the Novas (my first one, been Picco/Reds guy, but felt like trying something new for 2017):
1: "Old School - Run rich on box for multiple tanks" - This method keeps plenty of fuel and oil in the engine during break in to flush engine of the little bits that may have been left after build, but the engineer in me considers this not as sweet a break in as the "new school" heat cycle approach as described in the "break in bible" in this forum. I figure an engine with the quality of a novarossi won't have material left in to worry about (checked, cleaned and flushed).
2: "New School - Heat cycle on track" - Appeals to me, takes time, but will end up with a finely honed engine. Your experiences concur?
Any experiences comparing the two on a novarossi?
Final question, running in is in Singapore, it's 35degC (95degF) ambient. Still worth applying heat gun/wife's hairdryer before starting the lump (engine is worth risk of aforementioned wife wrath of stealing hair dryer).
Thanks folks, and all the best for 2017!
I've been reading up on breaking in my fresh un-factory broken Mito35 (ps, thanks santa!) and can see from the forum 2 clear schools of thought, although some time has passed since updates on the Sir Ron Paris bible. So a question to all the Nova guys, what's the preferred method for the engine considering build quality and materials of the Novas (my first one, been Picco/Reds guy, but felt like trying something new for 2017):
1: "Old School - Run rich on box for multiple tanks" - This method keeps plenty of fuel and oil in the engine during break in to flush engine of the little bits that may have been left after build, but the engineer in me considers this not as sweet a break in as the "new school" heat cycle approach as described in the "break in bible" in this forum. I figure an engine with the quality of a novarossi won't have material left in to worry about (checked, cleaned and flushed).
2: "New School - Heat cycle on track" - Appeals to me, takes time, but will end up with a finely honed engine. Your experiences concur?
Any experiences comparing the two on a novarossi?
Final question, running in is in Singapore, it's 35degC (95degF) ambient. Still worth applying heat gun/wife's hairdryer before starting the lump (engine is worth risk of aforementioned wife wrath of stealing hair dryer).
Thanks folks, and all the best for 2017!
#5193
Tech Champion
iTrader: (8)
Folks,
I've been reading up on breaking in my fresh un-factory broken Mito35 (ps, thanks santa!) and can see from the forum 2 clear schools of thought, although some time has passed since updates on the Sir Ron Paris bible. So a question to all the Nova guys, what's the preferred method for the engine considering build quality and materials of the Novas (my first one, been Picco/Reds guy, but felt like trying something new for 2017):
1: "Old School - Run rich on box for multiple tanks" - This method keeps plenty of fuel and oil in the engine during break in to flush engine of the little bits that may have been left after build, but the engineer in me considers this not as sweet a break in as the "new school" heat cycle approach as described in the "break in bible" in this forum. I figure an engine with the quality of a novarossi won't have material left in to worry about (checked, cleaned and flushed).
2: "New School - Heat cycle on track" - Appeals to me, takes time, but will end up with a finely honed engine. Your experiences concur?
Any experiences comparing the two on a novarossi?
Final question, running in is in Singapore, it's 35degC (95degF) ambient. Still worth applying heat gun/wife's hairdryer before starting the lump (engine is worth risk of aforementioned wife wrath of stealing hair dryer).
Thanks folks, and all the best for 2017!
I've been reading up on breaking in my fresh un-factory broken Mito35 (ps, thanks santa!) and can see from the forum 2 clear schools of thought, although some time has passed since updates on the Sir Ron Paris bible. So a question to all the Nova guys, what's the preferred method for the engine considering build quality and materials of the Novas (my first one, been Picco/Reds guy, but felt like trying something new for 2017):
1: "Old School - Run rich on box for multiple tanks" - This method keeps plenty of fuel and oil in the engine during break in to flush engine of the little bits that may have been left after build, but the engineer in me considers this not as sweet a break in as the "new school" heat cycle approach as described in the "break in bible" in this forum. I figure an engine with the quality of a novarossi won't have material left in to worry about (checked, cleaned and flushed).
2: "New School - Heat cycle on track" - Appeals to me, takes time, but will end up with a finely honed engine. Your experiences concur?
Any experiences comparing the two on a novarossi?
Final question, running in is in Singapore, it's 35degC (95degF) ambient. Still worth applying heat gun/wife's hairdryer before starting the lump (engine is worth risk of aforementioned wife wrath of stealing hair dryer).
Thanks folks, and all the best for 2017!
#5194
Folks,
I've been reading up on breaking in my fresh un-factory broken Mito35 (ps, thanks santa!) and can see from the forum 2 clear schools of thought, although some time has passed since updates on the Sir Ron Paris bible. So a question to all the Nova guys, what's the preferred method for the engine considering build quality and materials of the Novas (my first one, been Picco/Reds guy, but felt like trying something new for 2017):
1: "Old School - Run rich on box for multiple tanks" - This method keeps plenty of fuel and oil in the engine during break in to flush engine of the little bits that may have been left after build, but the engineer in me considers this not as sweet a break in as the "new school" heat cycle approach as described in the "break in bible" in this forum. I figure an engine with the quality of a novarossi won't have material left in to worry about (checked, cleaned and flushed).
2: "New School - Heat cycle on track" - Appeals to me, takes time, but will end up with a finely honed engine. Your experiences concur?
Any experiences comparing the two on a novarossi?
Final question, running in is in Singapore, it's 35degC (95degF) ambient. Still worth applying heat gun/wife's hairdryer before starting the lump (engine is worth risk of aforementioned wife wrath of stealing hair dryer).
Thanks folks, and all the best for 2017!
I've been reading up on breaking in my fresh un-factory broken Mito35 (ps, thanks santa!) and can see from the forum 2 clear schools of thought, although some time has passed since updates on the Sir Ron Paris bible. So a question to all the Nova guys, what's the preferred method for the engine considering build quality and materials of the Novas (my first one, been Picco/Reds guy, but felt like trying something new for 2017):
1: "Old School - Run rich on box for multiple tanks" - This method keeps plenty of fuel and oil in the engine during break in to flush engine of the little bits that may have been left after build, but the engineer in me considers this not as sweet a break in as the "new school" heat cycle approach as described in the "break in bible" in this forum. I figure an engine with the quality of a novarossi won't have material left in to worry about (checked, cleaned and flushed).
2: "New School - Heat cycle on track" - Appeals to me, takes time, but will end up with a finely honed engine. Your experiences concur?
Any experiences comparing the two on a novarossi?
Final question, running in is in Singapore, it's 35degC (95degF) ambient. Still worth applying heat gun/wife's hairdryer before starting the lump (engine is worth risk of aforementioned wife wrath of stealing hair dryer).
Thanks folks, and all the best for 2017!
Just one tank on the box at a slightly higher than normal idle ensuring the engine is reaching at least 75-80 degrees celsius. Then slowly start running the engine in the car. Over the next 8-10 tanks leaning the top needle about 1/8 turn each tank (stop when engine approaches race tune and back it off 1/8 and stay at this setting for the rest of break in). Initially avoid full throttle for the first few tanks and then progressively use more throttle for longer periods. For the final couple of tanks use full throttle for progressively longer periods to full seat the piston in the sleeve at TDC.
Stop and let the engine cool every 2nd tank to heat cycle. You need the engine fairly hot during this process and not excessively rich. Keep the engine at least 80 degrees celsius and towards the end of the process around 100 degrees. Remove the head cover once the engine can sustain at least 80 degrees celsius on its own while running in the airflow.
Final race tune can be achieved at around 12 - 15 tanks depending upon the engine (it'll stop going rich by itself) or around 1.5 hours total time. Remember it is a Novarossi which is generally superior in quality and it does take a long time to properly break in a Novarossi. You may find the engine doesn't actually "drop it's nuts" until the 2 gallon point!
YES! Use the wife's hair dryer to heat the engine before each start.
#5195
after having my mito 35 for 3 months novarossi decided they do not
warrantry replacement rods or the damage they cause to your engine
when they fail.they could of said this with out even looking at my engine.
novarossi if you read this you really need to work on your customer sevice?
warrantry replacement rods or the damage they cause to your engine
when they fail.they could of said this with out even looking at my engine.
novarossi if you read this you really need to work on your customer sevice?
That said, I personally have never had a conrod or bearing fail in any of the Novarossi's I've owned (The Novarossi 359 series engine being the exception however this had a peculiar small size crank pin which failed and was a known problem - NR quickly discontinued that engine!). I have seen Novarossi engines fail when people use poor quality fuel, run them overly lean or employ a poor break in technique (running in at too low temperature) which would be the case with any nitro engine!
Like I say I would be interested to hear the circumstances surrounding your issue as your post wasn't clear and would've been useful to post. I mean I've got a Keep Off 4 in my box as a wet engine that has over 7 gallons on it with the original rod and bearings (same rod P/N as Mito).
#5196
Breaking in an engine knows 1001 ways and basically they all do the same: A rich setting to use more oil and lower down the performance and then build up the performance/tuning in small steps
The one is carefull and uses 3 liter during this proces and the other thinks he has a better result doing it quick within a liter of fuel.
Heatcicle is a methode but not realy needed with current Novarossi engines, doing it or not will not harm the engine or make the engine different.
There are also a lot of discussions if you should start with one tank idle. Yes you should!
The low RPM will keep down the forces and polish the surface and edges a tiny bit before the real force of high revs is taking over.
The one is carefull and uses 3 liter during this proces and the other thinks he has a better result doing it quick within a liter of fuel.
Heatcicle is a methode but not realy needed with current Novarossi engines, doing it or not will not harm the engine or make the engine different.
There are also a lot of discussions if you should start with one tank idle. Yes you should!
The low RPM will keep down the forces and polish the surface and edges a tiny bit before the real force of high revs is taking over.
#5197
Thanks folks,
As ever a great forum with some seriously knowledgable people. Appreciate the great feedback and will take the advice down the track, along with hairdryer :-)
All the best for 2017!
As ever a great forum with some seriously knowledgable people. Appreciate the great feedback and will take the advice down the track, along with hairdryer :-)
All the best for 2017!
#5198
#5199
Tech Adept
on it and this is with a bad xray fuel tank where the clunk gets stuck in the
neck (now fixed) my mito 35 was the first time i have had a new rod fail.
#5200
Did the replacement rod fail straight away or did you manage to get some time on it?
#5201
Tech Adept
the crank bush failed on the 5th tank
#5202
Yes absolutely. If you are using the right fuel and understand the engine well it will last that long. By the way it wasn't my intention to run it that long on the original rod!! It was an engine that kept being pulled out of my box for practices etc. Novarossi Rods are very well made and I've never had one fail.
#5203
I've always broken in my engines driving the car normally and heat cycling every 10 minutes back to cold again. Not sure if it's the best but I have some very long lasting engines with gallons on them. I do keep the mileage off my more expensive RB & Novarossi engines though. May change a rod soon since it's been a while.
#5204
I've always broken in my engines driving the car normally and heat cycling every 10 minutes back to cold again. Not sure if it's the best but I have some very long lasting engines with gallons on them. I do keep the mileage off my more expensive RB & Novarossi engines though. May change a rod soon since it's been a while.