Novarossi engines thread
#2566
Tech Rookie
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 15
the LC rod will not fit the 359. My understanding is that the LC has a smaller crank pin. The LC/WC rod says C2 on it.
I believe a 35+ rod will fit a 359, but the #'s are different. 35+ takes a R7 rod with standard pin clips and the 359 takes a P1 rod with different clips.
I believe a 35+ rod will fit a 359, but the #'s are different. 35+ takes a R7 rod with standard pin clips and the 359 takes a P1 rod with different clips.
Thanks cdelong, please confirm so i can buy them. What about the .12 con-rods? .. 359 and 353 rods are hard to get where im from , so i just need options.
#2567
#2570
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,610
From: Colorado
359 crank pin dia. is 4.45 mm ( P1 rod # 07011 )
35+ LC crank pin dia. is 4.71 mm ( C1 rod # 07010 )
I undestand that the LC/WC has a C2 on the rod with part # 07010/1
Original & current 35 Plus 21 uses a (R7 rod # 07009) with a crank pin dia. of 4.99 mm ( R4, R5 & R6 rods will also work )
.12 353 Race ( rod # 07602 )
.12 Plus 12-3SCT (rod # 07601)
35+ LC crank pin dia. is 4.71 mm ( C1 rod # 07010 )
I undestand that the LC/WC has a C2 on the rod with part # 07010/1
Original & current 35 Plus 21 uses a (R7 rod # 07009) with a crank pin dia. of 4.99 mm ( R4, R5 & R6 rods will also work )
.12 353 Race ( rod # 07602 )
.12 Plus 12-3SCT (rod # 07601)
Last edited by Nitro-mech; 02-10-2008 at 11:10 AM.
#2572
neither is better neither is worse. the ct has more bottom end and torque while the sct has a smoother powerband and more top end. I dont think that the CT comes with the rubber seal at the head button, which is a plus because dirt doesnt go that way.
#2575
after almost 15 tanks my NS12 S3 is still hard to fire up, piston still tight. guess i need to add few more tanks before it get less tight.
anyway, i find there is "freeplay" where the cranksahaft moves horizontally in and out after i install the cone+flywheel ( this before i started to break in process) ,i have tried a few times to reinstall but still the same
is this normal or factory defects. but it idle and run normal.
thanks
anyway, i find there is "freeplay" where the cranksahaft moves horizontally in and out after i install the cone+flywheel ( this before i started to break in process) ,i have tried a few times to reinstall but still the same
is this normal or factory defects. but it idle and run normal. thanks
#2576
#2577
The inner diameter doesn't change because it's restricted.
The only thing that can make a difference are the smaller bearings used which are lighter, also the crank should have less flex so higher rev's.
Only the 353 race has a smaller crankpin, that's why it hase it's own special conrod's.
#2578
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,202
is there a technique on how to replace the o-rings for the high and low end needles? im afraid i might rip up the o-rings because theyre a tight fit
i just ripped up a couple while removing them, and now im about to install new ones, but they are so difficult to put it
any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
i just ripped up a couple while removing them, and now im about to install new ones, but they are so difficult to put it
any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks
#2580
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 5,120
From: www.moorebankraceway.com
is there a technique on how to replace the o-rings for the high and low end needles? im afraid i might rip up the o-rings because theyre a tight fit
i just ripped up a couple while removing them, and now im about to install new ones, but they are so difficult to put it
any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks 
i just ripped up a couple while removing them, and now im about to install new ones, but they are so difficult to put it
any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks 
if you are rushed for time, and have no o rings, use some plumber's teflon thread tape, make sure you position it so it does not interfere with the needles pasage though.



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