Murnan says the timings on the Mugen X-12 and the NS12 S3/A1 are significantly different. I know all the parts are the same but the timings are not.

I have had both and personally preferred the Mugen X-12.

I thought the NS12 S3 was a short stroke engine

Cheers

cheers man always count on on someone

as soon as i can find my camera ill post some pic of my Murnan PLUS-12CT lol

What's the difference between the "long body" and "short body" C vs. F? More importantly, which one should I be using in my Rex RER?

Thanks

M7H do you know if the new efra rules, allowing the turbo scoop, also count for nomac?.
I've looked for it but couldn't find a answer anywhere.
But if it's so it;s a good change because it means more power.

ABOUT TURBO GLOW PLUGS

Turbo Glow Plugs where designed to give more performance to an engine, for the following reasons:

·It forms an uninterrupted combustion chamber.
·The advantage of better heat transfer or heat dissipation, and a leak proof seal, generated by the conical seat of the plug.
·Greater choice of thermal ranges, that allow for more precise tuning according to variations in weather conditions (temperature, humidity, altitude, barometric pressure, etc.).

The numbers and characters on the plugs, are the product number, wire thickness, and thermal range of the plug’s body. Example: The Novarossi C6TG (F) or (C)
§ Product: C (Conical)
§ Wire Thickness: 6
§ Plug Type: T (Turbo)
§ Plated: G (Gold)
§ Thermal Range: F (Fredda = Cold) C (Calda = Hot)

The plugs with cold thermal range F (Fredda), have a body with thinner walls and shorter body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The plugs with hot thermal range C (Calda), have a body with thicker walls and longer body, so they dissipate heat better and faster to the engine head. The number of threads is the same on both types of plugs.

How to select the proper plug:
·When the ambient temperature is high, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
·With higher compression, we have to use a plug with thicker wire.
·Humidity determines if we use a Cold (F) thermal range, or Hot (C) thermal range.
·With high humidity percentage we should use a Hot (C) thermal range plug.
·If we have high temperature and high humidity, we should use a plug with thick wire and a Hot(C) thermal range.

The best instrument to determine which Turbo Plug to use, is those table digital weather stations, that have Temperature, Humidity, and some also Barometric Pressure on them. That is the key to success or failure tuning engines with Turbo Glow Plugs, because they are so sensitive to weather variations that is unbelievable.

Following is a selection chart for Novarossi Turbo Glow Plugs

Type Thermal Range Nitro% Air Temp.C° Humidity
C5TGC Hot/hot wire 10-20 0-10 70-100
C6TGC Hot/average wire 10-20 10-16 70-100
C7TGC Hot/cold wire 20-30 16-25 70-100
C8TGC Hot/ultra cold wire 30-up 25-up 70-100
C5TGF Cold/hot wire 10-20 0-10 40-70
C6TGF Cold/average wire 10-20 10-15 40-70
C7TGF Cold/cold wire 20-30 16-25 40-70
C8TGF Cold/ultra cold wire30-up 25-up 40-70


Hope it helps
AFM

I've sent you a PM....

In general (for people who are interested) the Dutch regulations are the same as EFRA, which means a so called "turbo scoop" is allowed but it can not end (or begin) in the crankhole.
The crankhole (and don't forget this is the old rule!) has a max diameter of 7mm, and should be perpendicular (90 degrees) on the rotation axis (WASP REV not allowed!!!)
Also the end of the hole near the backplate should be continously round, with a max rounding (chamfer) of 0.5mm, so the turboscoop can not be a part of the hole. NOMAC regulation.: 11.1.3 (jaarboek 2006 pagina 11.3)

Hey guys I am new to this sport/hobby and I was given a new Rossi engine with a red crank case. Are these any good for racing? Are these good engines in general? This is my first 1/8 scale car. I raced indoor electric 1/12 scale years ago and I am just getting back into this hobby.

Rossi engines are different than Novarossi. Sorry no experience with Rossi engines

I figured this is the only rossi related thread and they are in a way cousins Maybe someone has a little experience with them.

They would be ok for racing but it depends on what racing you mean. Club days, major events etc. They are not that popular at major events, in fact I have never seen them used where I am from...

Run it till it blows up then just get either a novarossi based engine which includes RB, JP or try the Ninja or Sirio.

Thanks of the reply. I kind of figured that. I have a brand new modded Sirio that I can't wait to break in after I run that Rossi into the ground It was a freebe so I can't complain. Never saw one of those engines before until it was given to me.

The engine you have is the Rossi R21 Maranello. It is now sold under the AXE brand. Its still a good little motor and will last forevever.

Cheers

EFRA has now changed to be inline with IFMAR and so the dutch regs are NOT inline with EFRA. They are the same as the BRCA except we allow the CRF

Cheers