does anybody have pics of a muran modifyed plus .12 if so i wanna see them

Thanks for the information How long do the ceramic bearings last? Do they have the same lifespan or even outlast the ordinary bearings? Also, what benefit does one get with a bigger crankshaft diameter as compared to a smaller one?

Ceramic bearings lasts almost forever if you use good fuel and also good maintenance.

There is a small increase in performance with the bigger diameter crank. The lifespan, i cant comment on because i've only had a few runs with the SCT, but it seems to be holding up really well so far. To extract maximum life from ceramic bearings, run good quality fuel like Runnertime, and after each days racing, take the engine apart, make sure there is no fuel left in there, clean with alcohol, and oil liberally while re-assembling. A good quality after run oil like Mugen or Powersave is better than Automatic transmission fluid. This is a good way to prevent rust, and the corrosive nature of nitro doing it's work on your bearings and internals between race days.

Can somebody give me a comparison between the 2630 and the 2601? I need a new pipe and would like to know the differences between the two. I will be using the pipe on a Rex RER 3 port.

Thanks.

I see. I take care of my engines properly and take it apart every now and then and see to it everything is working well. As for the fuel, I'm using Tornado 25% and Tornado after run oil. Is this good for this kind of engine? Also, how much percentage of nitro are you running? Thanks again

In Australia, we only use 16% nitro, as per IFMAR. I run standard head shimming and a CT6 plug usually, of course depending on the conditions.

Tornado Fuel and products are not readily available here, so i've had no experience with them. If your doing everything else right, for example tuning, plug selection, head clearance, etc, i guess you can guage how good your fuel is, with the way your engine runs, longevity, and how the internals look.

Nick

Thanks The dealer of the Novarossi engine here recommends that the CT7 plug be used after running in the engine. I was also told that the Plus 12-3SCT came with a CT5 plug. Should I stick to this plug rating? Thanks

It comes with a CT5 because you need a hot plug for break-in. My preference is CT6 because it has a bit more bottom end, but the 7 works good too. As AFM explained, plug selection depends on a lot of factors.

Ok then Will just stick with the CT7 plug since this is what the dealer of the engine recommends after breaking in the engine. I'm also getting the 2630 pipe with 6 fins conical manifold. Not very familiar yet which to get. Should I go for the 5 fins or the 7 fins? Or would it be better to get all the different types of manifold?

Hi Everybody

I don’t if it is the right place, but anyway, then I have a NovaMega SX-12 SS 3-P.
The engine starts and idles w/o any problem in cold condition. I can use the engine total powerband during this period. Get the track and running with the car and also w/o problem.

If the engine blowout of any reason, then I get my problems:
I can’t restart the engine in hot condition. I need the engine cool down completely and then it restart w/o any problem. Try all different setting with high, low and middle needles without any luck. Went back to factory set and go from there once again, starting in cold and don’t start in hot.

Engine setting:
Turbo plug Mega # 6 cold.
Head shim 0.3 mm.
Ambient is hot (+28 - 30 deg. C) and dry.

Please, engine gurus I need some help.

Regards and Thanks in advance.

Hi bozzez, can u pls help me to know what is the "factory' headshim inserts for a Nova plus 21-5T and a Nova 421bsx?.., i got my engines 2ndhand and i want to go back to the correct/proper headshim gaskets. and also is it alright regarding performance and lifetime of the engines if i use O'donnel turboplugs in my Nova's?....thanx thanx very much in advance!!!

Does anyone remember if the Nova NS12 S3 is shimmed out of the box for 16% nitro? Also is there any recommendations for running it in, i hope it isn't super tight like other motors on the market.

BB

No. Its shimmed for 30% around. You need to reduce the head shims to give you 0.3mm head clearance.

For running in preheat the engine to 160 deg f and make sure you keep the temp up for the first 2 tanks on idle.

I wouldnt reccommend the WOT method (if you dont know what it is dont bother) This stresses the engine too much