Novarossi engines thread
#2341
Hi Alfonso,
I just checked the entry list for the 200mm Euros at your home track next week, but I didn't see yur name. What's up? Are you not racing?
Sabrina Lechner, Reto Koenig (Burito) and Dirk Stammler from our team are going to Madrid.
Do me a favor, go by and say hello from me
Take care,
Stefan
I just checked the entry list for the 200mm Euros at your home track next week, but I didn't see yur name. What's up? Are you not racing?
Sabrina Lechner, Reto Koenig (Burito) and Dirk Stammler from our team are going to Madrid.
Do me a favor, go by and say hello from me
Take care,
Stefan
Definitely wrong. The main difference between the 'C' and 'F' is on the height of the part that protrudes over the button (in more graphical terms: the height of the hex you use for tightening) and this is what makes their difference in heat transfer from the combustion chamber to the air.
A 'C' and 'F' plugs protrude the same on the combustion chamber, so the compression could not be different between them.
Being conical at the end of the combustion chamber, you cannot insert more the plug unless you do a gorilla tighten and break the plug button or strip the treads.
A 'C' and 'F' plugs protrude the same on the combustion chamber, so the compression could not be different between them.
Being conical at the end of the combustion chamber, you cannot insert more the plug unless you do a gorilla tighten and break the plug button or strip the treads.
#2343
Consider it done... I'm going to do some photos during the next week. Will post some here.
#2344
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Post a thread in the WTB section. You'll find one. My buddy got one at the GLC last year for nothing. I think it was Mark Unger that had a pit box full of cranks.
Last edited by cdelong; 08-13-2007 at 02:57 AM.
#2345
Ok, just got back from the track and i think it is solved, i noticed that there where some air bubbles in the fuel line and there wasn't going any fuel to the engine. When i put it on the start box and blocked the stinger i could get fuel to the carb and the engine would start. I put new fuel lines, fuel tank, exhaust seals and air filter on the engine and used the short plugs and it seems ok now. I just don't know what causes those air bubbles as i guess that may be my real problem?
#2346
I'll send you my e-mail address via PM,ok.
Thanks,
Stefan
#2347
Ok, just got back from the track and i think it is solved, i noticed that there where some air bubbles in the fuel line and there wasn't going any fuel to the engine. When i put it on the start box and blocked the stinger i could get fuel to the carb and the engine would start. I put new fuel lines, fuel tank, exhaust seals and air filter on the engine and used the short plugs and it seems ok now. I just don't know what causes those air bubbles as i guess that may be my real problem?
This means that your engine is running on the hot side. Try to richen the bottom and the top needle and see if the problem goes away.
#2348
Ok, just got back from the track and i think it is solved, i noticed that there where some air bubbles in the fuel line and there wasn't going any fuel to the engine. When i put it on the start box and blocked the stinger i could get fuel to the carb and the engine would start. I put new fuel lines, fuel tank, exhaust seals and air filter on the engine and used the short plugs and it seems ok now. I just don't know what causes those air bubbles as i guess that may be my real problem?
I bet it was the lid of the tank....
Changing your fuel lines every race, is an overkill, I change them.... when they look to dirty.. somewhere around once a year.
as stated before, Turbo plugs don't exist in long or short version, to change compression ratio (How can somebody even come to the idea), Like TK said, the long and shorter version of plugs, are there so the plug has more or less body around the wire, which determines the plugs temperature. A shorter body means a hotter plug, because the plug's body give less cooling to the plug.....
Sometime the bodies are the same length, but there is more or less material around the wire of the plug.
Yes, the afterrun discussion.
ALWAYS use afterrun oil, even if you will use you engine again tommorrow, whatever fuel brand you use.....
A bottle will cost you around 4,- and it will last a year...
Don't forget we live in a land with a higher percentage of humidity, so corrossion in your engine is built up rapidly.....
#2349
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
the long and shorter version of plugs are there so the plug has more or less body around the wire, which determines the plugs temperature. A shorter body means a hotter plug, because the plug's body give less cooling to the plug.....
Sometime the bodies are the same length, but there is more or less material around the wire of the plug.
I may not have stated my point exactly correct, but the plugs DO effect compression due to the difference in the size of the hole in the plug..... it is open to the combustion chamber and does effect compression. What do you think helps change the temperature of the body besides the body retaining heat? Compression makes heat- take some away it's colder, add some it's hotter.
and and Corse-R....... it does not matter if the body (hence the hole in the plug) is larger over the combustion chamber- it's still part of the combustion chamber
If anyone cares to prove me wrong, rip the wires out of each a "F" and "C" plug and measure the width and depth of the hole...... then come back and tell me I'm wrong- I'll eat crow if I am (I wouldn't make the challenge if I hadn't already done it).
#2350
I see your point now....
Was under the impression that you meant that the plug went into the combustion chamber deeper, which is quiet impossible...
But it's the opposite around....
MORE material means a COLDER plug...
Was under the impression that you meant that the plug went into the combustion chamber deeper, which is quiet impossible...
MORE material means a COLDER plug...
#2352
#2353
.21 Conrod question
The engine that applies are a pair of JP Racing B5-T and a Nova Plus 21-7. The break-in is finished (or almost like the 21-7) and need to change the conrod of all two. My question is regarding the conrod type.... Plain R7 or R6 with hardcoated wrist pin?
The JP came with the R5 and the 21-7 came with the R7, but checked dimensions and the R5, R6 and R7 are the same. Only changes small details: R5 is the heavyest, R6 is lighter but comes without the upper bronze bushing (and I think that needs a hardcoated wrist pin - only available thru JP Racing) and the R7... seems to be almost light like the R6 but with upper bronze bushing.
Those are Off-Road engines, they buzz on my truggy...
Salvatori, Uriah, ... ?
The JP came with the R5 and the 21-7 came with the R7, but checked dimensions and the R5, R6 and R7 are the same. Only changes small details: R5 is the heavyest, R6 is lighter but comes without the upper bronze bushing (and I think that needs a hardcoated wrist pin - only available thru JP Racing) and the R7... seems to be almost light like the R6 but with upper bronze bushing.
Those are Off-Road engines, they buzz on my truggy...
Salvatori, Uriah, ... ?
#2354
Hi ,
I have .12 - 353 murnam mod. version. I run this engine with 2630 pipe combo. I'll buy a new pipe but this, time another one. Has any one tried any other pipes and what was your experiences???
thnx
I have .12 - 353 murnam mod. version. I run this engine with 2630 pipe combo. I'll buy a new pipe but this, time another one. Has any one tried any other pipes and what was your experiences???
thnx
#2355
I know I was after I switched from the 2630....