If you are getting an engine with a balanced crank (most likely mod engine). Less or none balance weight are always the better cranks. It means it is natrually balanced! Do you expect same amount of balancing lead weight on all 4 of your tires?

If I am allow to open the backplate and pick engines, I surely will pick the one with none or less weight on the crank!

That would mean the crank is heavier and theoretically less performance IMO they need the weight's to perfectly balance a more highly modified crank with bigger bores and turbo scope

thats what their websites are for you can do all the comparison in front of the computer
But thats only if they keep the correct info on there

or not perfectly balanced just close enough

But if you do the same to the moded engine it to will get the same amount of performance gain

Max motor
 

Hi guys, I have just purchased a new Max Motor made by Novarossi. This engine has awesome power but is very hard to start.
Currently has 6 tanks through it. Running on 12% oil and 16% Nitro,still running rich. Has no mid range screw, am on 4 turns out on the top needle and 3 turns out on the bottom, have tried various plugs but it still wont start easy, also running at 180 Deg F . It also takes a long time to come back down to idle. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks

i think your bottom needle not rich enough ( i am refering to the part where it took a long time to come back down to idle)

try 2.5 out on bottom and then set the top so she peaks just at the end of the back straight mines like 3.5 on top on 3CT very similar to the SL3 if thats what you got
Drop the head shims down to .3
Run either a C6TGF or a C6TGC depends on the air temp and humidity

I didnt relize your engine only got 6 tanks she still being run in slowly work your way to the settings i suggested 1/8 of a turn every half tank

Thanks for the input guys, this engine is a Mega SL3 M.F but actually has no head shims?? Is this correct for 16% Nitro, is this the best Nitro % to run for this motor??

Thanks for all your help

what's the general head clearance for Novarossi engines?
I have N12LL3 and my head clearance w/o head shim looks like .1 - .04 I can't tell because my calipers are wornout? trying to shim for 30% fuel. I'm wondering if the silver .3mm + .2mm shims will be enough. .54-.60 total head clearance work or am I setting myself up for a blown engine?

16% fine

.5 should be ok if your to worried .6 to be safe

hi guys...like to inform that i've got things sorted, the LHS told me he realise the situation i've encountered ,he also has justify the matter with his dealer, he kindly let me exchange it with another engine...that's what u call good sales&services:D

Rcabj, shops like you have mententioned are hard to come by good and understanding sales and service is very hard to find in a hobby shop i sugest you stick with that shop. Also i might add for the shops frendly helpfull sales and service Is the way to get our money. No one whats to give there money to some one who snubs there costomers and are no help when a small very fixable prob like yours is braught to there attention. Good luck with the novarossi. Best Regards Jeremy.

Yeap, thanks:)

good point, but a lot has to do with the weight of the piston/conrod etc.
but if NR should make all there engines very close to perfectly balanced you can expect that the price will be double of an already high price.

and don't forget, you never can get an single cilinder balanced perfectly.
you can reduce it a little bit by coming close to perfect but you never ever can get it perfect....

Engine tune
 

Hi guys, thanks for all your help so far with my new Max LS3. Ran it on the weekend ended up with the bottom needle ONLY 1& 3/4 turns out. Any further out and the engine wont idle for more than 10 sec,slowly just drops rpm and stalls. I know its rich if i have the bottom needle any further out because as you give it a small rev it coughs raw fuel out before it catches and revs. My problem is that even with the bottom needle at up to 4 turns out the bottom runs on for about 3 sec before coming to a nice reliable idle, IT is not running on because it is to lean, its different, it just seems to drop down to a very high idle and then takes about 3 sec to drop right down. Almost like you have "Idle Up" on. (At least it never stalls on the start):rolleyes: Only real problem with it doing this is in hairpin corners it doesnt allow the clutch to tottally disengage and can throw the car into the fence if you arent careful. Should I just put up with this running on and tighten up my clutch a bit ??