NOVA PLUS 12-3 C/CT
 

what is the main difference between these engine, is it the crankshaft :confused: tks.

yes,

the T means the engine is "turbo" ifmar legal (not allowed by EFRA), the crankshaft scoop protrudes in the intake tunnel which is bigger than the efra legal version......

these are the differences.......

tks ;)

idm
 

Anyone got any info on idm engines . Are they rossi based & where can i find any specs on them & who sells them? What mods are done to them. Any info would be great.

nova based IDM engines arent made anymore...for at least 2 years now.
If you can find a engine, you can expect to see a modified sleeve and having a buggy crackshaft in youre onroad engine.
Because of the buggy crankshaft they have some awesome low end torque, despite there top speed.
These engines are no screamers!

This is a good engine for tight and technical tracks, IF you could find a new one!

check out www.sandrosrc.com, http://www.sandrosrc.com/?idsubcat=8...ad=814&lang=ES to be exact

Does anyone know if the rod from a 35Plus21 (R7) work in a Plus 21-3?

Thanks

yes it works.........the differences are material (?) and quality control.......

Thanks for the info. I have a nsrs3 factory tuned motor i was wondering how this compare's in performance to the idm 12 t 3 . I have been ofered one that has only just been broken in & raced @ one club race day . It is a very good price!

I am interested in getting. Can you shed some light on your exp? how much is it? which shop has it for a good price? thx.

NOVA PLUS
 

Hi guys, did NOVA plus 12-3c had a tuned version released. :confused:

well 2 guys on the nz team are using them that i know of so far :sneaky:

hey guys can u please help me
i just got a new nova +12 3 engine, my first non pull start engine
since its new the piston and slevve is very tight
i was wondering how i start it since i use a starter box
the piston would just get stuck at the top of the sleeve
was wondering how u guys did it
thanks and please reply fast, running out of daylight :p

thanks mat

Preheat the engine with a hairdryer or a heat gun and then try to start. That should loosen the tight fight a bit and you should be able to start w/o any problems. That is the way I do it, and it works. Have fun.

Take out the plug and preheat the engine with a hairdrier to 150Deg F. Put a dash of 3 in 1 oil in the cylinder and turn over on the box for 2 mins. This is to fush out all the crap that might be there after iot was put together

Replace the plug and preheat again to 150 at least and start.

For running in let the engine idle for one tank and keep checking the temp. You need to keep the temp high or the engine will wear out and not in! Keep the hairdrier on the engine during the first couple of tanks at idle.

My mate has the same engine and has ran it in at temp and has used it for 3 meetings and its still tight at TDC without the plug!!!!