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Old 11-16-2009, 06:54 PM   #271
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i thought nitro blaster was the nitro rc drag car?
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Old 11-16-2009, 06:55 PM   #272
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the rod shouldnt rust as its brass/aluminium..the rust will be coming off the crank

use scotch brite to clean it all up and then use wd-40 to spray it all clean. then methylated spirits to get rid of the wd40 as that stuff stinks

then oil it up. just soak it with after run oil. if you think the oil is too thin then go with power steering oil
part of the rust is probably from the steel insert in the buttplate as well as many other steel items in the internals of the engine

anyway you look at it , it needs some attention
would suggest new bearings as the races more than likely have rust on them which will only get worse
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Last edited by houston; 11-17-2009 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 11-16-2009, 07:02 PM   #273
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i thought nitro blaster was the nitro rc drag car?
I think this may be the cause of concern...

Quote:
VXR Racing is proud to anounce its new product:
CNB-0600 ”Nitro Buster” Spray Cleaner

Net Weight: 600ml
Physical can height: 31.5 cm
Total can weight: 550gm

Features:
1) Removes and clean nitro oil residue, grime, dirt and other contaminants
2) Index Trigger nozzle
3) Easy to use with powerful discharge
4) Plastic friendly
5) Zero residue
6) Will not harm your RC electronics
7) Environment friendly

Applications :
Drive train / transmission components, shocks, bearings, engine, radio tray, clutch, etc. Powerful Cleaner for Nitro-powered R/C Cars for maximum racing performance. Performance cleaning solutions for your winning Nitro R/C cars. Specially formulated to effectively remove and clean nitro oil residue, grime, dirt and other types of contaminants while leaving no residue.

Directions :
Hold can 10-16cm away from the surface to be cleaned. If precision and powerful jet is required, use the supplied extension tube by attaching onto the nozzle. For best results, clean the surface from the top and work down to the bottom in a sweeping motion until all the dirt is removed. NITROBUSTER and brushing may be required to remove stubborn dirt and grime.
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Old 11-16-2009, 08:30 PM   #274
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http://www.modelflight.com.au/rc_mod...ro_blaster.htm

i used to have one of them
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:48 AM   #275
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The last time I've seen it this bad was beginning this year, when by accident after cleaning my exhaust pipe, some water was left in it.
after rebuilding the car and putting it on it's car stand at home awaiting for the next race, accidentally some water came in the engine, without me noticing it, then 1 week later....
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:27 AM   #276
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Looks like burned or dryed up oil to me.

Just clean it and look if there is realy rust on the crankshaft and bearings.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:00 AM   #277
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I think what we are seing here is caused by water mixed with the oil after being put away for a certain amount of time.if the engine has not been properly cleaned after water got in to it, once you add WD40 or any other oil base product you will get that effects, I've seen it happen to many times here with customers that drop off they R/C cars and truck for repairs.


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Looks like burned or dryed up oil to me.

Just clean it and look if there is realy rust on the crankshaft and bearings.
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:50 AM   #278
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hey guys , i got a 1/2 gallon old onroad crank i believe is either from a 359 or 35plus21 , whichever one uses a 4.5mm crank pin . it is a ceramic coated , hotmods putty filled crank . very spendy crank , if you want it you can have it for 90$ obo

pm or email me

[email protected]
just figured since this is the onroad engine area , ship worldwide , just ask for shipping quote
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:29 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M7H View Post





The last time I've seen it this bad was beginning this year, when by accident after cleaning my exhaust pipe, some water was left in it.
after rebuilding the car and putting it on it's car stand at home awaiting for the next race, accidentally some water came in the engine, without me noticing it, then 1 week later....

so what u do to clean it...???

or u just change the rod and main bearing...


just wondering is it becoz im using tornado fuel..?? in my 1/10 engine, i'm using 353 09 with O'Donnell 16% fuel ...the engine was clean even im not use afterrun oil after bashing at my local track. But with tornado this is happened to me...so sad becoz Flash .21 cost me about 2.2k my currency money...

i will try to use WD40 to clean it...maybe next week will try for it...will upload more picture on cleaning proses...
now had no time due to lots of works at my office....
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Old 11-18-2009, 02:34 AM   #280
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so what u do to clean it...???
or u just change the rod and main bearing...
Take the engine apart.
The bearings I had to replace.
The conrod was fine, but the crank was dirty of the rust, but this you can quiet easy wipe off with brillo soap pads

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi..._soap_pads.JPG

just be carefull not to damage the conrod pin on the crank, but in order to prevent this, put the conrod on, and hold it with your thumb, while with warm water and the soap pads you are cleaning the crank.
You can also clean the outside of the liner with this stuff, but leave the inside and the piston alone.


Quote:
just wondering is it becoz im using tornado fuel..?? in my 1/10 engine, i'm using 353 09 with O'Donnell 16% fuel ...the engine was clean even im not use afterrun oil after bashing at my local track. But with tornado this is happened to me...so sad becoz Flash .21 cost me about 2.2k my currency money...
No, not with the amount of rust from your pictures, "Novarossi" already mentioned that the ”Nitro Buster” Spray Cleaner might be the source of the problem....
It is ok to use it on the outside, but not the internals of your engine....

The older Tornado is a fuel which doesn't leave any residu in your engine, so also no protection, and that is exactly why i recommend everybody to always use afterrun, and not just 3 drops.
From your nickname i can not see if you live in a dry or humid environment, which obviously is the source of rust in engines...


Quote:
i will try to use WD40 to clean it...maybe next week will try for it...will upload more picture on cleaning proses...
now had no time due to lots of works at my office....
Don't use WD40!!!. It seem that it will damage the putty in the crankshaft.
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Old 11-19-2009, 11:24 AM   #281
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sooo....35+21....tuned from Nova or Murnan?

any thoughts?
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Old 12-06-2009, 10:19 PM   #282
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Default 353 09 engine tune question

Hi guys i have a small issue with my engine

I noticed these engines act differently when cold for starters compared to the 08 353 i have, the issue im having is that in yesterdays A final it would stall straight after a pit stop. it sounded like it went rich and just died. temps were around the 125 degrees celsius mark.

apart from the stalling it was fine. im thinking it could be a rich bottom end? or maybe a longer pressure is required? could it also be that im using a pressure chamber on the fuel line for more fuel volume?

Thanks
John G
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Old 12-07-2009, 01:44 AM   #283
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Hi guys i have a small issue with my engine

I noticed these engines act differently when cold for starters compared to the 08 353 i have, the issue im having is that in yesterdays A final it would stall straight after a pit stop. it sounded like it went rich and just died. temps were around the 125 degrees celsius mark.
Don't go full throttle out of the pits, but blib the throttle (while running the car) a few times before going full throttle, also try a new glowplug and if you can, the old GRP/Ninja plugs, or nowadays MAX power seems to deliver them...
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Old 12-07-2009, 05:49 AM   #284
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I have a nova 353 '09 which i bought recently. i have run this engine in as per book + extra special treatment after i heard that the bearings in these engines are faulty.

i ran tornado 16% with an added 3% castor oil (total of 11.6%) i also ran the engine with Runnertime 16% once it was broken in. i always ran an oiled air filter, always after runed with the same after run i have used for the last 5 years (auto transmission fluid). I also inspected the engine every so often.

it's fair to say, nothing was spared, unfortunately the bearing in my engine died after about maybe 3.5 to 4 litres of fuel.

there is definately an isse with the current 353 09 bearings. all users of this engine at my track (that i know of) have suffered this issue.

what is the deal? i've had metal sheilded bearing engines in the past without this problem...so why now? (from memory the RB C12 had a metal sheild, same as some of the older novas back in the days)

is it because the balls are facing outwards? the nova based MAX engines from the SL3 series had the bearings facing towards the inside, and also had a rubber seal, yet the 353 '09 has the balls towards the outside and a metal sheild, is this the cause of the problem? or is it a dodgy batch of bearings?

what is the deal with this? i know it doesn't cost much to buy a good bearing rubber sealed, but that's not the point. If you buy a ferrari, do you expect that you will have to change a major engine part after only 1000km of use?

i was lucky to suffer no damage. the engine did run rich on the low end with the original bearing, yet when they new one was installed with the same tune and a new conrod it ran noticably leaner, just a weird thing i noticed. i run on a clean track by the way with a grass infeild, i don't hit the grass any more or less than your average joe (meaning i do go off, but i don't live on the grass either)
I have noticed that bearing QC has gone down from them. Some of the bearings are destined to fail, and some have good tolerances that make a good bearing. A good bearing will last at least twice as long as a poorly made one. Sadly it is not possible to get all great bearings in their production engines.

Another thing I have noticed that some aftermarket flywheels are pumping dirt into the front bearing. The back of these flywheels have round parts on the back that pump debris into the front bearing. The rubber shield bearings are OK here, but the metal shielded bearings don't stand a chance. The back of the flywheel should be flat.

The metal shield front bearing is slightly more free than the rubber shield. It makes a slight performance difference, but you have to be more careful with the metal shield. They don't seal as well.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:12 PM   #285
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temps were around the 125 degrees celsius mark.
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