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Old 04-24-2007, 05:04 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerseyboy
What difference does the extra shims do to the performance?

it reduces the compression of the engine. when i added the .10mm shim i noticed it needed to be re tuned a bit, just keep this in mind. the extra shims will (i think, mark can correct me if i am wrong) will make it idle a little better, and tun a bit cooler as well.

the extra shims also assist in the break in process, as the go's are too tight when new otherwise, i found.
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:57 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
it reduces the compression of the engine. when i added the .10mm shim i noticed it needed to be re tuned a bit, just keep this in mind. the extra shims will (i think, mark can correct me if i am wrong) will make it idle a little better, and tun a bit cooler as well.

the extra shims also assist in the break in process, as the go's are too tight when new otherwise, i found.
With my 7 port I wanted to reduce the power abit. I'll add some shims for this one.
I am getting my first 5 port 2morrow. I am contemplating should I mod it or not. I really dont think its needed, these engine are so fast you take yourself out the racing game as you struggle to get proper setup for good laptimes. Meanwhile you overpowered and throwing the car all over the place.
I think I will leave this one stock.
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Old 04-24-2007, 11:47 AM   #63
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I have a nova P5X carb and 9886 pipe on my GO it holds its tune very well and has not flamed out once since i began tuning it. I run a LRP 6 plug, and use the MASSIVE MODS HB444 25%. At the end of my last final, temp check was 80degC which i believe is too cold?? Its already producing ridiculous power and I really dont feel the need to lean it anymore.

Does anyone know what factors contribute to engine temp being cold apart from the obvious??? And also what the point of turbo heads are??

I have a P5X head and think it will fit straight on the GO, is there something to gain by this??

Thanks in advance....
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Old 04-24-2007, 04:48 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
jthe engine does not come with enough headshims. MassiveMods brought this to my attention at the track after he realised it could use a bit of help from some extra shims (comes with the headbutton clearance and one copper shim) i added a copper shim to it (.10mm) and it helped the engine a bit, but would still probably need another silver shim as well.
Thats odd, my 5-port had 2 copper shims on it out of the box.
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:20 AM   #65
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Hello,

Can anyone tell me what the factory needle settings on a Go 21 7 port are ?

Also how many head shims should engine come with ? Mine had 2 brass shims.

My engine is running well but seemingly a little hot. In 260 - 270 range after a race. Richening causes unsatisfactory power and im pretty sure im not too lean as I get a fair bit more performance still when i lean it further. Im pretty sure I have no air leaks so wondering if adding a shim might bring temps down a bit or if it shoudl just not care becuase the engine is running great. I am running a Go no 5 plug and Massive Mods 25% fuel.
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Old 04-25-2007, 06:26 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisv
Hello,

Can anyone tell me what the factory needle settings on a Go 21 7 port are ?

Also how many head shims should engine come with ? Mine had 2 brass shims.

My engine is running well but seemingly a little hot. In 260 - 270 range after a race. Richening causes unsatisfactory power and im pretty sure im not too lean as I get a fair bit more performance still when i lean it further. Im pretty sure I have no air leaks so wondering if adding a shim might bring temps down a bit or if it shoudl just not care becuase the engine is running great. I am running a Go no 5 plug and Massive Mods 25% fuel.
If your engine is still new and tight it will run a tad hotter due to the bedding in process.
I find that the Go 7port like to be approx 1.5 to 2mm below the top of the top end screw and rich on the bottom end. This keeps the temp very constant.
The performance is phenomenal.
Start with the top end srew and adjust the bottom to suit.
ps: adding a shim will make it run cooler.
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Old 04-25-2007, 11:03 AM   #67
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ummmm how do you read that chart?

does it say that engine is putting out 148hp?
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Old 04-25-2007, 01:42 PM   #68
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Yes, it's putting out 1.48 corrected Hp at between 24k and 26k rpm's.

The corrected HP is the power thats actually getting to the ground. So when you see one rated at say 2.5hp, thats the HP of the engine without a load.
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Old 04-26-2007, 12:57 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
it reduces the compression of the engine. when i added the .10mm shim i noticed it needed to be re tuned a bit, just keep this in mind. the extra shims will (i think, mark can correct me if i am wrong) will make it idle a little better, and tun a bit cooler as well.

the extra shims also assist in the break in process, as the go's are too tight when new otherwise, i found.
Started running in my 5 port last nite. I added 1 aluminium shim. I think its .25mm. Definitely makes the running in process easier.
Good advice Tom.
Ive decided not to mod this one. Makes the engine alot better for racing. My modded Go's are just too vicious from the word go.
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Old 04-28-2007, 08:23 PM   #70
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hey Guys have been reading the forum so far and ill report what i have found with racing my Hyper 7 ( woo Hoo ! ) and a Stock Go tech 5 port

I had a race day last Sunday at LRRCC came 4 th in the A main and besides being really pleased with the day and running of the event i remembered why i love Off Road so much ! I had so much fun, Liverpool has changed a lot over the years with a much friendlier general atmosphere.

Anyhoo Back to the Go Tech

I found the Standard shimming to be to high comp ratio, i blew a few plugs on run in and when i exammined them realised that more shimms were needed, i also put the Turbo button on and it helps considerably. So in total i ran .7 shimms total and turbo head button.

RUN IN

These engines are tight and yes they make a tinny noise on the first start , thats cos they are so tight, so its imperative to pre heat , i ran in on a all castor mix with 20% nitro no synthetic.. This helps with max protection and promotes heat in the motor, First run in should be real hot if you can .

OK So i got it started with alfoil and a sock over the head, ran half a tank at clean HSN setting ( not overly rich) At half throttle constant, then the other half revving up and down . Then i took it out to the test facility MMSTFATAP

On Grass for 1 litre consistant. I basically punished the engine, i leaned it to almost race tune, close to 10 mins to a tank, then caned it on grass and helis on the dirt. I was trying to force the engine to malfunction or blow, needless to say it didnt happen, in fact it just smiled at me and said GIMME MORE !

I dont recommend you do this at home, as the distributor for OZ i have to KNOW the engines limits.

Anyway i used a 13 T CB and a 46 Spur which gave me a really nice and useable power band. I coud line up at the triple on the front straight at Livo about 1.5 to 2 meters from the jump , gun it , and it would over shoot the jump no problem. back straight , same again , line her up and whoosh, it would clear the back double no probls then scream down the back straight, 2/3 down it the engine was still pulling faster.. Great top end , better than what i expected.

Ok Extra shims will lower your torque down low but help top end. The engine had all the torque i needed and some with .7 shimming in there.

The motor ran flawlessly all day long and starting was so easy , one tap on the box and it fired immediately first go every time !

I ran 7 k center diff , front and rear i didnt bother with , i will be going 5 k front i think to give me a little more pull and on power steering. I ran on Proline bad lands for a stir and i actually liked them lol


LRP Turbo # 6 and of course HB 444 .. The engine feels great , ill be keeping you all posted as to what happens to this test engine. I will be happy if i can get 30 litres through it without any maintenance other than cleaning the top of the piston and head button.

Cheers MM
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:30 PM   #71
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I forgot to mention for all the Temp Gun freaks out there, that when you shim up, ie add shims your head temp reading will go down as its transferred more out the pipe... So dont freak out its just the heat transfer is different ...
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:42 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
I forgot to mention for all the Temp Gun freaks out there, that when you shim up, ie add shims your head temp reading will go down as its transferred more out the pipe... So dont freak out its just the heat transfer is different ...
Ditto Mark
After I added the one aluminium shim I find that its almost impossible to run the engine too hot. My 5port runs cool, idles consistant and makes exellent power in stock form. I now feel that modding the Go's is just abit too much. I rarely found with my 7 port that I was peaking out. Anyways I like the 7port in my truggy and 5port in my buggy.
I am not using a turbo head as I dont lik using turbo plugs. Always giving tuning hasles and doesnt last long. I dont feel the Go's really needs it IMO.
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Old 05-01-2007, 02:35 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerseyboy
I am not using a turbo head as I dont lik using turbo plugs. Always giving tuning hasles and doesnt last long. I dont feel the Go's really needs it IMO.
this is a falacy man. technically, a better seal on the button will give a better tune. the .12 onroad guys had this perception about turbo plugs a few years back, now all onroad guys use turbos without a hassle. Turbo plugs give a better seal, and are just as easy to tune as a normal plug. Ask yourself why would a turbo plug be any harder to tune? i've moved from non turbo to turbo without an issue, and go through less plugs infact with the turbos.
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Old 05-01-2007, 08:20 PM   #74
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without trying to sound like i am contradicting anyone ill say what i know and leave it at that

Standard and turbo plugs make exactly the same seal.

Turbo plug advantage is a smoother flash front as opposed to standard plug which can protrude into the geo dome, Turbo also have a lower geometric compression which aids top end, at the loss of a little torque.

thats why Turbo were more popular in on road racing

when they first came out i heard all sorts of stuff

Turbos make more power
Turbos are more delicate and cant be used off road
Turbos need 8 % oil to work
Turbos require softer clutch shoes
Turbos have nicer personalities
Turbos requre more after run
Turbos run hotter
Turbos run cooler

lol

M
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Old 05-01-2007, 09:30 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveMods

Standard and turbo plugs make exactly the same seal. M
hmm you recon? what about once the copper shim has worn out from taking the plug in and out so much, and the seal on the headbuton copper ring and plug is no longer as tight? i remember in my old days with the non turbos when a plug was old you could see some pressure being release near the plug (ie bubles poping out now and then, especially if the motor was new, or if the headbutton had worn out a bit where the copper washer contacts the headbutton).

also the advantages you could gain from using a non turbo plug (and getting more torque like you said) could be counteracted by using a longer header/or pipe combo when you use a turbo plug right?

and my final point; ay man it's called turbo plug! it's quicker bro! naturally! lol i put a "turbo" sticker on my hyundai accent, i swear man, 20% more powa!
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