Generally speaking the 5 port has more torque , but you can get similar with gearing and clutch springs

try 2 x 1.1 mm and 1 X 1 mm springs

Alloy shoes

13 t clutch bell and go up one tooth on your spur gear

that should give you the spring you want ..

you think that will beat my LJ torana ?

its got a 186 with a chrome polished cover on the head man ! and furry dice !

lol

Hmmm. Let me clarify. I have the 5 port G. I was thinking about getting a 007 pipe rather than JP1. Thoughts?

AZTman thats a big negative on the 007 pipe, get the dynamite 086. the 007 pipe is way too much bottom on the 5port especially for the nitro pit. Might work good at SRS

i run the jammin JP3 pipe and found it is very good with the 5 port. good bottom end, top speed is good as well, maybe not the outright quickest buggy on the track, but 90% quicker or as quick at full noise as the rest, which is good enough.

Id have to say try the MSR 1005 pipe best pipe going IMO novas love it so do O.S so just try it



Mugen MSR 1005 Pipe (MSR1005)
The Mugen Seiki Racing 1005 pipe is designed for .28 engines, and broadens the powerband of these engines and provides great run-time and smooth throttle response.
This pipe also works very well with many .21 engines, including the N21B, VSpec, and P5.
Pipe includes 2 coupler grommets, springs, and setscrew.

Love the look of the MSR1005, think i will have to invest in one myself!!

Alright alright. I have a JP2 on it now and I've been waiting for someone to get the Dynamite 086 in stock for a month. I guess I'm still waitin.
T

I have heard lots of good things about the 1005 pipe. But for $50 for a hardcoated dynamite 086 its pretty hard to beat. The dynamite pipes also have a good stinger support. I have a team driver that likes the Jp-3 pipe on the 5port as well. But from what i have seen and tested the 086 is a great match for the 5port.

AZTman don't worry the JP-2 won't hold you back I ran it for a long time on the 5 and 7port engines. Didn't give me the top I needed on the 5 and didn't get me the bottom i needed on the 7, but these engines are not extremely pipe sensitive so you can get same results as Tomb from a lot of different pipes.

hey Nitro Junkie .. where did you get the MSR from.. id like to try one

A main and Carolina RC has them

Carolina only has the hardcoated version in stock http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...idproduct=2220
Chrome version but out of stock http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/...?idproduct=722



A main only has the chrome version but out of stock
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ducts_id/10651



The shitty part is they don't come with the Mugen logo any more but its still made by the same company they just put there logo on it instead i think because Mugen has the Ninja line now so they don't need this pipe any more

i read some ware that this pipe was designed for the P5 to get the most power out of it


ninja with dyno runs with a few diff pipes including the MSR http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ighlight=Ninja

Had my first raceday with the 5 port in the truggy today. Iwould like some theories on why I had issues on my 5port.
I run th 5 port in my crt with the blade 4 shoe clutch. Mathed with a JP1 pipe this combo is great. I had some issues during the race. When I start her up the first couple of laps the performance is wicked. As I get to race temp after second tank it starts to lead bog badly. Tried richening the bottom end but nada. I couldnt be competitive as I did not get the consistancy needed to throughout the race.
When I got home I inspected everything. Leaking tank fuel lines nothing. Carb does not seem to be leaking on the spots seen on previous posts. This engine is just about run in now. The rubber seals of bottom end needle and top end needle is intact.
The engine would sound like its not getting fuel. Similar to when the tank runs empty. I did not have the same issues with the 7 port.
Any suggestion. Mark or Russ. I really like the performance and want to run this in my truggy.

1. Is the backplate sealed? If not, do that! I'm about to do that myself, as a precaution. I'm not having probs yet, but it's good practice.
2. How did you check the carb? Did you dunk it in water and blow air? It won't show leaking fuel, and won't make a hissing sound or anything when you blow in it. Dunk it for sure, put your fingers over the two big openings, and blow in the fuel line.
3. At race temp do you have bubbles in the fuel line at carb inlet? To check, warm it up with body off to where it starts bogging, bring it in and inspect closely. If I route my fuel line around the motor like stock that happens to me. I think it's a combo of heat and vibration from motor. I rerouted my line and bubbles disappeared. Some pictures of CRT's show other people rerouting too, and I have to assume they had the same problems.
4. If it's just breaking in, what temp was it on the track? It still has pinch, so it could overheat easily. If temp was high, did you richen HSN or just LSN? I'm guessing that with the JP1 you are on a very tight track. I think you could keep good punch and temps by running a normal LSN, not too rich, and richening the HSN to give more cooling when at high RPM. Performance tuning should be done at full temp. If it's running like lightning on the first lap without any warmup, you may be running lean on one or both needles. Since you have experience tuning obviously, check the stuff above first and make sure nothing wierd is working against you.

massivemods - what is the reason for the 0.6 head shims that you suggest?
i have a 7 port with turbo head, and os p3 plug. engine came with 0.3 shims (total).
i didnt saw any problam with engine operation with stock shiming until the piston broke after 3 liter of use. is the shimming may be the reason? or it was just defective?