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Old 05-03-2007, 12:41 AM   #76
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iSh that because they are a higher displacement plug ? Ma Ma Lishen ok
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Old 05-03-2007, 08:38 AM   #77
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From my experience. If you look at a turbo button with turbo plug installed, you can see the dome plus plug is a beautifull fit for good combustion.
Generally also Turbo plugs are hotter plugs and from my OS Vspec experience, I always had issues with the P3's. After about 1.5 to 2 litres the plug starts to lose performance and needs replacement. No ways you can tune it right.
What I do now is use standard buttons, I polish the chamber and make sure the plug makes a nice fit in the chamber without protruding or being in too deep. For me this works magic. Its like I am simulating the turbo button effect.
I cant see any noticeable difference to what I do to my standard heads versus the turbo head.
Mark share your experimentation with heads. I think you will agree you can get the same from a standard button if polished.
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Old 05-04-2007, 07:03 PM   #78
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the main difference between Turbo and Standard button is the Geometric compression ratio. Turbo heads have a larger roundish dish. this has several effects

Hi all i have to edit my info , ive been corrected on the information, it was my impression that refraction is influenced by the shape of the dome.. its not so , what a larger dome does is allow for a larger charge to occour which is evenly transferred to the piston regardless of the shape ..

Woo hoo !
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Old 05-05-2007, 10:03 AM   #79
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Hi

Ill try again... Can anyone tell me if the P5X Turbo head will fit my 5 port GO. I already run a Nova carb which fitted perfectley. You may recall this engine Mark!!! BTW awsome motor just about to drop it in my new LSP PRO-R!!!

Thanx.
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Old 05-07-2007, 12:58 AM   #80
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it Should be a straight drop in but id recommend the Go Turbo button . I think the bore is the same but the clearence may be different ..
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Old 05-07-2007, 01:26 AM   #81
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The only real difference most experienced drivers have told me between std and turbo plugs is :

Turbo has definately a bit more power but that could be as Mark said from lower compression having more top end.
Dont have the hassle of thw washer falling of teh plug when making a quick change ina heat or final.

Only negative i have been told and experienced in a sense is with turbo plugs the tune seems to have a smaller window compared to std ,if that makes sense.They just seem to need a bit more precise tuning.
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Old 05-07-2007, 02:16 PM   #82
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Well guys, i use to hang out on the STS thread. but after 2 cranks breaking and not even 1 1/2 gal including break in. i have decided on the go tech motor. sounds like they can be a bugger to break in, but thats ok with me. i have placed a order on this motor.. GO Tech 7+2p Modified it may be to much motor for me but i am going to run on different size tracks all summer in the factory tracks. is there anything i should know about this motor befor i break it in?
also what can i expect for run time on this motor? and what type of 30% fuel should i use in this motor
Thanks

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Old 05-07-2007, 09:45 PM   #83
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Hey Dido

Youre gonna love this motor !

First thing is add shims, it prolly has .3 in it add .2 off the bat

Get you box charged ( youll need it )
1 Quart of fuel
Charged ignitor
Blow torch or heat gun

Chech carb idle gap is around 1 mm
Prime and ready your engine
Pre heat to about 150 F ( side of block under head )
Give it a good kick in the guts, should start first go provided its primed correcly
Bring revs up to 1/2 throttle
Tune HSN to clean 2 stroke ensure engine heats up to at least 180 to 220 F
Run 1 tank at 1/2 throttle
While still running fill tank and run the rest of the quart out on the road .

If its cold wrap alfoil round the head to keep heat in

it will take around 1 to 2 gallons for it to be fully run in but you can race it after 1 quart

If you want to run HB 444 ( thats our off road blend ) contact Brian Cooper on [email protected] they are our US manufacturer in NY

Fuel Type run in All castor 12% 20 % nitro
After that run it on HB 444 25% nitro if you wanna go higher add another .2 shim and run it on HB 444 30%

Cheers MM
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Old 05-08-2007, 12:40 AM   #84
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Mark. I took my button and opened it up and gave it a bigger dome. Like the way a turbo button is. I removed the shim I added and the engine is much better. Like it better now.
Also one thing I noticed. If you use a Novarossi plug you have to use 2 washers. I noticed this is not the case on all GO engines. Some buttons you dont need 2. Have you found this?
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Old 05-08-2007, 04:14 AM   #85
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thanks massivemods for the tips. i will check on the fuel. do you think starting out with 25% is to much? or can it be ok to just run the 20%.
most places have to ship 4 gal at a time. also what is a good plug for this motor.

Thanks
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:50 PM   #86
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Hey jersey

I dont know why you would use 2 washers unless the Nova plug was Long body and you wanted to de compress the Geo Dome C R

In future use Short body plug with 1 washer

DIDO

The fuel is what i recommend , i run in most motors like that with that fuel blend cos ive found it works nice. Castor is thick so it keeps things hot and it protects well when you have those tight tolerances in a new engine. If you cant be assed then just go to 25% nitro , should be fine, heaps of people do that.

Cheers <MM
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:59 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie 4.6
I have a nova P5X carb and 9886 pipe on my GO it holds its tune very well and has not flamed out once since i began tuning it. I run a LRP 6 plug, and use the MASSIVE MODS HB444 25%. At the end of my last final, temp check was 80degC which i believe is too cold?? Its already producing ridiculous power and I really dont feel the need to lean it anymore.

Does anyone know what factors contribute to engine temp being cold apart from the obvious??? And also what the point of turbo heads are??

I have a P5X head and think it will fit straight on the GO, is there something to gain by this??

Thanks in advance....
Id tune for performance regardless of temp , then limit throttle servo EPA to reduce power.. OR ! use a smaller carb restrictor . Dont run it cold it will wear the engine..
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Old 05-09-2007, 07:00 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
Id tune for performance regardless of temp , then limit throttle servo EPA to reduce power.. OR ! use a smaller carb restrictor . Dont run it cold it will wear the engine..
Cheers I forgot about that post!!! I never thought to go to a smaller restrictor, ill give it a go.....
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Old 05-09-2007, 11:04 AM   #89
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looks as if i will stay with my brand of fuel. Cooper will only do a 9 case shipment at a time. that would last me 8 years.
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Old 05-09-2007, 03:01 PM   #90
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I have found that I was mistaken on the head shimming that my GO .21 5 port came with.

I took the head off again and found that it had 3 shims from the factory.
2 thin copper ones and 1 thick copper one.....
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