Adjusting Clutch Guide for Newbies
#1
I've been searching everywhere trying to find some good material how to adjust the clutch. I can't find anything that goes into detail what all the different setting on the clutch do and scenarios to avoid. Something similar to the tuning bible. Any advice would be appreciated and I'm not looking for specific settings but just general info on how the clutch is adjust.
For reference, I have a MTX7r with a os t1204. This is my first nitro car and help is much needed. The locals guys have been help but I haven't gotten a good explanation from them.
For reference, I have a MTX7r with a os t1204. This is my first nitro car and help is much needed. The locals guys have been help but I haven't gotten a good explanation from them.
#2
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,403
Just watch all the youtube videos on clutch setup and choose a setup to start with. Change the setup over if necessary: we all learned it by trial and error, but you will need all the serious clutch tools to make it work properly....
#5
my engineering doesn't allow me to go through the trial and error method. I like having a plan and then test the affect. I material the others have shared was what I was looking. I've been taught how to set all the gaps and spring tension but I hadn't gotten a explain of what changing all the gaps do. I wasn't looking for particular settings because I know it's it all comes down to track conditions and driver preference.
#7
Could recommend what to try? I feel the clutch initial bite is too aggressive/grabs too early for my skill level. My assumption is that I want to play with the gaps. Any recommendations are greatly appreciated.
#8
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 53
Hi there, some good advice there, personally here's some stuff I've learned over the years.
To get it to be in the right ball park I generally set it up more or less as the books suggest, then start it get it warmed up and try to accelerate, i keep tigthening the adjusting nut till i hear the clutch slipping, once it starts slipping I back the nut off about a quarter turn.
I bought one of the older style clutch gap tools, a piece of alloy with a slot cut in it for measureung the clutch gap, for me this was quite in consistent. I now have a old set of feeler gauges with the common clutch gap sizes, and a slot cut in the feeler gauge so u can slip it between the screw and the thrust bearing, it's quicker and for me more accurate.
Keep an eye on the bearings in the clutch Bell they are very small and get hot so can fail easily.
Another issue ive had is, u set ur clutch up and cars good but as u go through the race day car goes a little off and its hard to figure out what's wrong. Check the adjustment nut, I've had mine back off slightly, it never comes right off but backs off maybe quarter to half a turn just enough to make it drive poorly but not enough to immediately notice and pick up on. I've seen people loctite then on even slightly make a mark on the threads so it won't loosen off.
I don't often change the gap as its quite fiddly and not something I like to do trackside. But when i have messed with it to me a larger gap had a somewhat similar effect to tightening the spring, later engagement. Also been told not to clean the clutch Bell with brake clean as the build up of residue actually helps it. Could be nonsense though
To get it to be in the right ball park I generally set it up more or less as the books suggest, then start it get it warmed up and try to accelerate, i keep tigthening the adjusting nut till i hear the clutch slipping, once it starts slipping I back the nut off about a quarter turn.
I bought one of the older style clutch gap tools, a piece of alloy with a slot cut in it for measureung the clutch gap, for me this was quite in consistent. I now have a old set of feeler gauges with the common clutch gap sizes, and a slot cut in the feeler gauge so u can slip it between the screw and the thrust bearing, it's quicker and for me more accurate.
Keep an eye on the bearings in the clutch Bell they are very small and get hot so can fail easily.
Another issue ive had is, u set ur clutch up and cars good but as u go through the race day car goes a little off and its hard to figure out what's wrong. Check the adjustment nut, I've had mine back off slightly, it never comes right off but backs off maybe quarter to half a turn just enough to make it drive poorly but not enough to immediately notice and pick up on. I've seen people loctite then on even slightly make a mark on the threads so it won't loosen off.
I don't often change the gap as its quite fiddly and not something I like to do trackside. But when i have messed with it to me a larger gap had a somewhat similar effect to tightening the spring, later engagement. Also been told not to clean the clutch Bell with brake clean as the build up of residue actually helps it. Could be nonsense though
#10
Hi there, some good advice there, personally here's some stuff I've learned over the years.
To get it to be in the right ball park I generally set it up more or less as the books suggest, then start it get it warmed up and try to accelerate, i keep tigthening the adjusting nut till i hear the clutch slipping, once it starts slipping I back the nut off about a quarter turn.
I bought one of the older style clutch gap tools, a piece of alloy with a slot cut in it for measureung the clutch gap, for me this was quite in consistent. I now have a old set of feeler gauges with the common clutch gap sizes, and a slot cut in the feeler gauge so u can slip it between the screw and the thrust bearing, it's quicker and for me more accurate.
Keep an eye on the bearings in the clutch Bell they are very small and get hot so can fail easily.
Another issue ive had is, u set ur clutch up and cars good but as u go through the race day car goes a little off and its hard to figure out what's wrong. Check the adjustment nut, I've had mine back off slightly, it never comes right off but backs off maybe quarter to half a turn just enough to make it drive poorly but not enough to immediately notice and pick up on. I've seen people loctite then on even slightly make a mark on the threads so it won't loosen off.
I don't often change the gap as its quite fiddly and not something I like to do trackside. But when i have messed with it to me a larger gap had a somewhat similar effect to tightening the spring, later engagement. Also been told not to clean the clutch Bell with brake clean as the build up of residue actually helps it. Could be nonsense though
To get it to be in the right ball park I generally set it up more or less as the books suggest, then start it get it warmed up and try to accelerate, i keep tigthening the adjusting nut till i hear the clutch slipping, once it starts slipping I back the nut off about a quarter turn.
I bought one of the older style clutch gap tools, a piece of alloy with a slot cut in it for measureung the clutch gap, for me this was quite in consistent. I now have a old set of feeler gauges with the common clutch gap sizes, and a slot cut in the feeler gauge so u can slip it between the screw and the thrust bearing, it's quicker and for me more accurate.
Keep an eye on the bearings in the clutch Bell they are very small and get hot so can fail easily.
Another issue ive had is, u set ur clutch up and cars good but as u go through the race day car goes a little off and its hard to figure out what's wrong. Check the adjustment nut, I've had mine back off slightly, it never comes right off but backs off maybe quarter to half a turn just enough to make it drive poorly but not enough to immediately notice and pick up on. I've seen people loctite then on even slightly make a mark on the threads so it won't loosen off.
I don't often change the gap as its quite fiddly and not something I like to do trackside. But when i have messed with it to me a larger gap had a somewhat similar effect to tightening the spring, later engagement. Also been told not to clean the clutch Bell with brake clean as the build up of residue actually helps it. Could be nonsense though
For me, is trying to get a gauge of how much to adjust at a time. At least with the mugen clutch small changes are huge and the gap is a huge change and really changes how the clutch feels. This stuff is for sure a learning curve compared to plugging in my programming module for my esc lol



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