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Sirio/Bliss/Boss/XRD/Team Orion engine experiences

Sirio/Bliss/Boss/XRD/Team Orion engine experiences

Old 11-08-2016, 01:19 AM
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Default Sirio/Bliss/Boss/XRD/Team Orion engine experiences

Hi

Does any of you have experience with the Sirio based engines listed in the title? It looks like Tironi and Pirani have good speed at the ENS in 1/8 with the XRD FT Line, but are they going through 10 engines on a weekend or?

What are pros and cons?

Thanks
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:03 AM
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Fuel consumption!!!! The crank volume is bigger than ever. But the engine is fast
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:26 AM
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Oh well, first engine dead... Looks like they forgot to grind down the bottom of the piston in one of my 2 engines. Bought 2 of the exact same engine and you can see the difference.

It died while driving but the shop i bought them at is saying i did not move the piston up when removing backplate (Rookie mistake, and never done that with the other +20 engines i have had).
Attached Thumbnails Sirio/Bliss/Boss/XRD/Team Orion engine experiences-p3250577.jpg  
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Old 03-28-2017, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Foodie View Post
Oh well, first engine dead... Looks like they forgot to grind down the bottom of the piston in one of my 2 engines. Bought 2 of the exact same engine and you can see the difference.

It died while driving but the shop i bought them at is saying i did not move the piston up when removing backplate (Rookie mistake, and never done that with the other +20 engines i have had).
Man that sucks forsure. That why I only use OS engines, no known problems ever.
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Old 03-28-2017, 08:00 AM
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Schepis Model will take a look at it and get back to me... Atleast a much better answer than the complete denial by the webshop owner.

The 2nd engine are going pretty well and running just as fast as my ISON, even though its not 100% race tune yet, and does not run clean.

Internals of the engine is tuned pretty much everywhere and it is using OS glow plugs.
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Old 04-27-2017, 12:19 AM
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To follow up what has happened, then Schepis Model decided to ship me a new motor yesterday (Delayed by easter and holidays etc.) Huge credit to them for doing this, and they earn some good feedback here after this
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Old 03-28-2021, 12:59 PM
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First up, sorry for the huge pics, no idea how to resize them inside the post while keeping them clickable so I put them into spoiler tags.

"If something sounds too good to be true, it probably is."
^This is the statement I should've kept in mind when searching for a cheapo engine. With affordable .12 engines being basically not available here with Novarossi being unavailable and me definitely not buying a T1204 to power a boredom project I went through Italian shops looking for something that might fit the bill. Then I read it, .12 engine with ceramic bearings and pipe included, for 99€. The SCHEPIS MODEL SM.12 PRO (another Sirio made brand like Bliss and Boss) bundle from modellismo e ricambi where I also picked up a MTX6 for 299€ (not advertising, just being transparent). Gimar actually had a better deal (MTX6+Novarossi Flash+pipe for 399€) with cheaper shipping but when I contacted them they said they were out of stock.
After it took them about a week to ship my order it arrived on thursday evening (after the tracking assured me an hour earlier that it'll arrive on friday, thanks UPS). I opened up the engine so I know what I'll be dealing with and well, I'm glad that I did.
Now let's begin with the carb having particles from the packing material inside:
Spoiler
 

Brilliant, not that hard to clean and hopefully the only setback. Well, not quite, there was a weird residue inside the pipe, probably just flux so no biggie but still weird.
Then I popped out the sleeve, piston looked fine:
Spoiler
 

But the sleeve itself... ohhhh boy:
Spoiler
 

Those ports needed some cleanup before this went back together, wasn't really thrilled about how this looked but hey, once it's broken in it'll probably be fine right? Right?
Well I went ahead and did some break in today, I think I've got 7 tanks through it now and went ahead and took it apart to check how it looks.... Doesn't look good, piston's got a ton of microscratches on it:
Spoiler
 

I wondered where those came from, then I took a look at the rod and the backplate:
Spoiler
 

Fuuuuuuuk me. At this point I checked the crank for axial play and well, the front bearing has some axial play, not a ton, maybe 0.2mm, still the first more or less brand new motor I had that had axial play.
And the cherry on the shitcake, this is how the sleeve looks:
Spoiler
 


Well, looking at the positives, it only took 7 tanks for it to get so loose that the piston doesn't get stuck in the pinch when hot anymore (still does when cold) and it still runs fine for now.
Let's see if I can make it last the whole can of fuel or if it dies before it gets to see a race tune.
Here's the whole album.
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Old 03-29-2021, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kawasaki161 View Post
First up, sorry for the huge pics, no idea how to resize them inside the post while keeping them clickable so I put them into spoiler tags.

"If something sounds too good to be true, it probably is."
^This is the statement I should've kept in mind when searching for a cheapo engine. With affordable .12 engines being basically not available here with Novarossi being unavailable and me definitely not buying a T1204 to power a boredom project I went through Italian shops looking for something that might fit the bill. Then I read it, .12 engine with ceramic bearings and pipe included, for 99€. The SCHEPIS MODEL SM.12 PRO (another Sirio made brand like Bliss and Boss) bundle from modellismo e ricambi where I also picked up a MTX6 for 299€ (not advertising, just being transparent). Gimar actually had a better deal (MTX6+Novarossi Flash+pipe for 399€) with cheaper shipping but when I contacted them they said they were out of stock.
After it took them about a week to ship my order it arrived on thursday evening (after the tracking assured me an hour earlier that it'll arrive on friday, thanks UPS). I opened up the engine so I know what I'll be dealing with and well, I'm glad that I did.
Now let's begin with the carb having particles from the packing material inside:
Spoiler
 


Brilliant, not that hard to clean and hopefully the only setback. Well, not quite, there was a weird residue inside the pipe, probably just flux so no biggie but still weird.
Then I popped out the sleeve, piston looked fine:
Spoiler
 


But the sleeve itself... ohhhh boy:
Spoiler
 


Those ports needed some cleanup before this went back together, wasn't really thrilled about how this looked but hey, once it's broken in it'll probably be fine right? Right?
Well I went ahead and did some break in today, I think I've got 7 tanks through it now and went ahead and took it apart to check how it looks.... Doesn't look good, piston's got a ton of microscratches on it:
Spoiler
 


I wondered where those came from, then I took a look at the rod and the backplate:
Spoiler
 


Fuuuuuuuk me. At this point I checked the crank for axial play and well, the front bearing has some axial play, not a ton, maybe 0.2mm, still the first more or less brand new motor I had that had axial play.
And the cherry on the shitcake, this is how the sleeve looks:
Spoiler
 



Well, looking at the positives, it only took 7 tanks for it to get so loose that the piston doesn't get stuck in the pinch when hot anymore (still does when cold) and it still runs fine for now.
Let's see if I can make it last the whole can of fuel or if it dies before it gets to see a race tune.
Here's the whole album.
The piston and sleeve after break in doesn't look that bad, that's pretty normal
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Old 03-29-2021, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by nitrodude View Post
The piston and sleeve after break in doesn't look that bad, that's pretty normal
That's good to hear. This is the first Sirio based engine I've had, and the first .12 in quite a few years. If it's a normal sight with these I guess I can calm down a bit. The thing that worries me the most (aside from the rod/backplate) is the inconsistent wear at the top of the pinch zone. I'm used to that looking closer to a straight line and not as jagged. My off road engines and the Novarossi in my dad's MTX-2 look much cleaner in comparison, no weird micro scratches on the piston/sleeve. And definitely not a chewed up rod and backplate lmao. Wonder if I'll be able to get a new rod for this somewhere, this one already developed a bit of play, not a ton but if it keeps up the pace with the wear it'll be ready for the bin soon.

I went through another five tanks today. The temps are definitely telling me that break-in is about done, while I didn't have much trouble keeping it above 100C yesterday and on the first two tanks today (head wrapped in tinfoil ofc) now I have to brake more and coast less to barely make it. Putting a body on would likely help but I haven't found the time to paint it yet.
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Old 03-31-2021, 11:55 PM
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I bought a Schepis 28, Sirio 24 and a Boss 28 not to long ago from the same place. I figured for the price why not. I haven’t had a chance take them apart for inspection or start the break in process yet. I did put some after run oil in them because new it would be a while before I could get to them. Maybe this weekend I’ll open them up and give them a good inspection.
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Old 04-14-2021, 05:46 PM
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Okay, the Schepis SM12 Pro is a definite not recommend from me by now.
It's incredibly temperature sensitive and as such a bitch to tune. Tuning on the box is impossible as by the time you made an adjustment, the engine temp dropped enough to make it impossible to judge.
Spares are expensive in comparison to engine cost.
​​​​​​It seems to eat through bearings like nothing else, though I could've found that one out earlier if I searched through the Sirio thread on the off road forum more carefully. I'm at about 2 liters through the engine and there's both radial and axial play now. The rear bearing being proprietary (12x22x5) doesn't help.
The rod wears out quickly too, though I'm used to rods that were used in break in not lasting as long, I expected it to last at least a can of fuel before developing play.
I can't seem to find header springs. The stock ones are the "one per side" type in a length that's not in stock anywhere, one of them broke so I needed something new. .12 "all the way around" springs are too short and break after a tank, .21 "one per side" are too long and most .21 "all the way around" are too thick to fit past the carb. I ended up finding an old spring somewhere that fit but damn that was a pain.

When you've hit the tune just right, it runs very well and has tons more power than I as a onroad noob can handle. It just has a temper.
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Old 04-18-2021, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by kawasaki161 View Post
Okay, the Schepis SM12 Pro is a definite not recommend from me by now.
It's incredibly temperature sensitive and as such a bitch to tune. Tuning on the box is impossible as by the time you made an adjustment, the engine temp dropped enough to make it impossible to judge.
Spares are expensive in comparison to engine cost.
​​​​​​It seems to eat through bearings like nothing else, though I could've found that one out earlier if I searched through the Sirio thread on the off road forum more carefully. I'm at about 2 liters through the engine and there's both radial and axial play now. The rear bearing being proprietary (12x22x5) doesn't help.
The rod wears out quickly too, though I'm used to rods that were used in break in not lasting as long, I expected it to last at least a can of fuel before developing play.
I can't seem to find header springs. The stock ones are the "one per side" type in a length that's not in stock anywhere, one of them broke so I needed something new. .12 "all the way around" springs are too short and break after a tank, .21 "one per side" are too long and most .21 "all the way around" are too thick to fit past the carb. I ended up finding an old spring somewhere that fit but damn that was a pain.

When you've hit the tune just right, it runs very well and has tons more power than I as a onroad noob can handle. It just has a temper.
Did you break it in with a break in bench? What Nitro % are you running? Also have you tried Manifold to Pipe Springs?
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Old 04-18-2021, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 1/8 IC Fan View Post
Did you break it in with a break in bench?
Regular in-car break-in with clutch set as loose as possible, full pre-heat to 90-100C before every start, full cool down to ambient temp at BDC after every tank. Two tanks rich idle, then two slowly rising and decreasing RPM with the car sat on a box, but still staying in a low-mid RPM range, all four while checking the engine temp regularly and using a heat gun to heat it up if it dropped too low. Then I leaned it out just enough that the clutch would engage (out of box settings were basically rich enough for the full throttle break-in method) and slowly ran it up and down the road while monitoring temps until it started richening up and dropping in temp, then I started slowly leaning it out until I arrived on something close to a good tune .

Originally Posted by 1/8 IC Fan View Post
What Nitro % are you running?
16%, didn't ask about the exact oil% but considering the mess I made more than enough.

Originally Posted by 1/8 IC Fan View Post
Also have you tried Manifold to Pipe Springs?
Yes, but no dice. The plate on the manifold the springs hook into is further back compared to for example Nova and OS manifolds where it's flush with the end, so they're way too short.
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:53 PM
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I am currently running an XRD (FT Line) GT motor in my SRX8, running 25% using the XRD header and pipe.
Motor took a while to break in but once it did its been very strong.
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Old 04-20-2021, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by kawasaki161 View Post
Regular in-car break-in with clutch set as loose as possible, full pre-heat to 90-100C before every start, full cool down to ambient temp at BDC after every tank. Two tanks rich idle, then two slowly rising and decreasing RPM with the car sat on a box, but still staying in a low-mid RPM range, all four while checking the engine temp regularly and using a heat gun to heat it up if it dropped too low. Then I leaned it out just enough that the clutch would engage (out of box settings were basically rich enough for the full throttle break-in method) and slowly ran it up and down the road while monitoring temps until it started richening up and dropping in temp, then I started slowly leaning it out until I arrived on something close to a good tune .



16%, didn't ask about the exact oil% but considering the mess I made more than enough.



Yes, but no dice. The plate on the manifold the springs hook into is further back compared to for example Nova and OS manifolds where it's flush with the end, so they're way too short.
you may need long .21 springs

Spring inline Long type .21 .12 (3) - RACERS RC
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