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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
(Post 3433345)
tune is perfect. running around 240 after a 20min main. Topend is great, but getting there isn't, it pulls, but not the way I want it to.
like i said before the settings on this motor are very sensitive and clutch setup is key. |
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
(Post 3433345)
tune is perfect. running around 240 after a 20min main. Topend is great, but getting there isn't, it pulls, but not the way I want it to.
Also, try a different glow plug. Mine seems picky about which plug I use. |
I'll have to play with it some more. If not, I'll pass it along for $200 with pipe.
Hek, I'll probably just get rid of it anyway. |
your new to nitro, no?
i'm only 16 and i know what to do, lol. like m7h said "Drivers should not look at the engine temperature to much. Humidity, airtemp, fuel type are all factors which have influence on the temp." how many tanks have you run on it? |
Exergen does not make engines.
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i have 2.5L through mine and i still have such a pinch from hell:lol:
gona be getting the tuned one soon,the one with the mag head,looks really cool. and i got the new pipe ,the one that you just twist the header on the pipe. # mr15005. |
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
(Post 3432877)
Engine question: I don't get much time to practice and work on gearing. I've been plagued with this Ninja engine, .12. It seems to be ok, temp wise, but it sure is a slug out of the hole with the gearing that I used. The same gearing on my Max power, the car is a bullet. I'm going to try dropping a tooth on the pinnions. Can anybody give me some input on the gearing for this engine....does it need to rev more? do I need to send it to Grinder? or do I just sell it and get another Max?
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What is the coldest plug that you can get for the Ninja? I am running #7 plugs know.
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Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
(Post 3446107)
What is the coldest plug that you can get for the Ninja? I am running #7 plugs know.
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In regards to my RO1T:
Big problem!!! We have figured out why it ran like a dog..nothing to do with tune.. The bearings are r00ted..the crank has sideways movement..is that cr@p or what! very dissapointed that the bearings were stuffed considering this has happened from new..I'm guessing manufacture defect. As a result of this the back of the conrod on the bottom has some nicks on it from moving around due to the ill bearings. Has anyone ever approached Ninja on warranty? is it possible (I would like to know as it's a brand spankin new engine? only care about warranty, as for a $650us engine, I was expecting better..this is garbage! I'm hoping it's a one off...if not, I'd be checking your bearings boys.. Cheers boys Ryan |
Originally Posted by Ryan41
(Post 3448217)
In regards to my RO1T:
Big problem!!! We have figured out why it ran like a dog..nothing to do with tune.. The bearings are r00ted..the crank has sideways movement..is that cr@p or what! very dissapointed that the bearings were stuffed considering this has happened from new..I'm guessing manufacture defect. As a result of this the back of the conrod on the bottom has some nicks on it from moving around due to the ill bearings. Has anyone ever approached Ninja on warranty? is it possible (I would like to know as it's a brand spankin new engine? only care about warranty, as for a $650us engine, I was expecting better..this is garbage! I'm hoping it's a one off...if not, I'd be checking your bearings boys.. Cheers boys Ryan Ryan I have a little advice. I am pritty shore the tuned 21 ninja has ceramic bearings in the rear. With all engine's but more so with ones with ceramic bearings during the barke-in procdure from first start you must be very carefull not to give fast excelaration you have to have very smooth throttal movements and alway's at a ritch setting. Ceramic Bearing have a bad habbet of skidding the balls inside the outer and inner races during the very early stages of brake-in. When that happens it damages the bearings very very early on befor the bearings and all moving parts have time to set there clearences. I am no expert but I have a feeling that may be part of your prob now. I know i have done it my self many times. I am much more carefull now to make shore i do very smooth throttal inputs on a fresh engine or even after replacing parts like bearings and conrod's. I hope you get it running agen soon. I knew the engine was not running like it should and i think once you get it sorted it should be quite good just don't give up yet. Best Regards Jeremy. |
Originally Posted by Sirio2127
(Post 3448322)
Ryan I have a little advice. I am pritty shore the tuned 21 ninja has ceramic bearings in the rear. With all engine's but more so with ones with ceramic bearings during the barke-in procdure from first start you must be very carefull not to give fast excelaration you have to have very smooth throttal movements and alway's at a ritch setting. Ceramic Bearing have a bad habbet of skidding the balls inside the outer and inner races during the very early stages of brake-in. When that happens it damages the bearings very very early on befor the bearings and all moving parts have time to set there clearences. I am no expert but I have a feeling that may be part of your prob now. I know i have done it my self many times. I am much more carefull now to make shore i do very smooth throttal inputs on a fresh engine or even after replacing parts like bearings and conrod's. I hope you get it running agen soon. I knew the engine was not running like it should and i think once you get it sorted it should be quite good just don't give up yet. Best Regards Jeremy.
:nod: and with these motors i really believe that you need a bench to do the break in properly. :) and the nitro% low and the oil high. |
Originally Posted by Sirio2127
(Post 3448322)
Ryan I have a little advice. I am pritty shore the tuned 21 ninja has ceramic bearings in the rear. With all engine's but more so with ones with ceramic bearings during the barke-in procdure from first start you must be very carefull not to give fast excelaration you have to have very smooth throttal movements and alway's at a ritch setting. Ceramic Bearing have a bad habbet of skidding the balls inside the outer and inner races during the very early stages of brake-in. When that happens it damages the bearings very very early on befor the bearings and all moving parts have time to set there clearences. I am no expert but I have a feeling that may be part of your prob now. I know i have done it my self many times. I am much more carefull now to make shore i do very smooth throttal inputs on a fresh engine or even after replacing parts like bearings and conrod's. I hope you get it running agen soon. I knew the engine was not running like it should and i think once you get it sorted it should be quite good just don't give up yet. Best Regards Jeremy.
I emailed ninja, so hopefully they reply. Whilst we had it apart.. we compared it to Chris's JP R03..and the porting on the Ninja has nothing on the JP...the JP looks much more impressive! If Ninja don't come to the party...I think I will have an Eagle on the way! Cheers, Ryan |
I have a R01 and the con rod went bust in less than 1 gallon of fuel.Emailed them to ask about the con rod and they haven't reply yet.Its been almost 2 weeks now.
I was very lucky the con rod gave way during idling,internally nothing much damage.What I worry most is the new con rod whether it will last. |
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
(Post 3448340)
:nod:
and with these motors i really believe that you need a bench to do the break in properly. :) and the nitro% low and the oil high. |
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