anyone know of an online shop that ships cross border to Canada?

by the sounds of it. Ninja .12 has the best engine/exhaust combo

amain ship across, i get stuff from them all the time

Thanks,

you have PM

There is a Canadian distributor of Ninja engines, RC1 Racing. They distribute Ninja, Mugen and Tornado fuel. There website is www.rc1racing.com

I checked with him and they have a few .21's left and .12's are comig within the week.

greatly appreciated. Thank you!

hmmmmmm..............

Anyone else find that the Ninja .21 buggy engine seems to run really well at about 250F? I always was under the impression you want to run about 220F but the car is just slow and sluggish if I've got it tuned to run around there. No matter how we do it. Fatten the top up, the bottom, both, etc... We lean out the top a bit and richen up the bottom until it'll clean out nicely and it starts running around 250-260 at the most. Is this temp range normal for this motor? I'm running O'Donnell 30% and the Ninja #6 plug.

I run two Ninja on-roads and they like to run warmer than most engines. The head has a huge opening, so when taking temps, the temp gauge gets closer to the plug. I know off road motors are a little different, but not much. I would say you could probably run that motor even a lil hotter. Us on-road guys are running 280-300 with alot of smoke.

Lil John is right. the GRP engines fools you o think temp i higher but the cooling head is a bit larger on top so your tempguage gets a little closer to the plug and you`ll get higher temps.

Anders Mehren, importer of Falcon ( GRP ) engines to Norway

Sorry, Lil Paul....

Mike/Ron/Mike,

I tried your "Swauger" bench break in method today on my new MR21-R01A Ninja's The first one ran kinda cool at 1/2 and WOT (~100F). Idle and 1/4 runs were 180- 190F. After breaking in that one I opened it up to check it out..... the wear pattern on the piston and sleeve is very odd.

It does not have a coencentric wear ring on the sleeve or the piston. Usually I see an even wear "glaze" in the sleeve near TDC. This one has eight evenly spaced "glazed" areas that line up with the piston and sleeve perfectly. Any ideas?

They are not scores, scuffs, or scratches- just an uneven "glaze pattern" as I call it. The glaze marks are on the piston as well- it's smooth with a fingernail touch- same as the sleeve. Do you think it just needs more time to even out the pattern? It has loosened up pretty good, but needs some track break in still.

The second one I tried to keep a little warmer all the way through the runs and it looks perfect and still sticks pretty good

hey guys

just wondering how does the new 1:10 touring .12 ninja by mario rossi go against a sirio evo3 sti???????

im wondering cos i don know which 2 get, any sugesstions which 2 go for???
please help

I finnaly tested the Ninja .12 T01A but it went all wrong for me.

I already runned dozens of engines and never happened anything like this.

After running in the engine and making a few tanks, trainings and qualifyings, after 25 minutes in the main final, in 2nd position and going well, the engine broke... the piston got stuck and the conrod broke. And this happend at low rpm in a slow part of the track.

The temperature has been running ok (100ºC~212ºF), nb 7 plug and good quality fuel.

Maybe it was just bad luck... I don't know...

Any thoughts?

possibly it just dropped a glow plug. 90% of the time the coil just spits out the exhaust with no damage, but sometimes...... bad stuff happens.

just as a follow up on my question....

I talked to Mike and he said these Ninja's are so tight this is common during the early break in stages. The pattern will even out after more running in on the track.

Thanks Mike