houston

iTrader: (96)

Lets just say there are other ways that dont involve fuel and in the car

segreda

Anyone adding castor oil on fuel for break in?

ready rollers

Look at the possibilities of not spending that extra money in fuel to break in a engine. No noise, it can be done inside, while building you buggy or truggy and breaking in your engine. Just a cool idea I think not bashing the other ways of breaking in the engine. But if there was any way to help save customers time and money that would be cool.

OleC

Please share Houston.

houston

iTrader: (96)

It doesnt require a 10,000$ aluminum bathtub ,lol

motomatt

iTrader: (12)

I'm confident he was referring to the metal particles CREATED during break-in.
In this case they would remain in the oil being used to perform the break-in.
When actually running the engine for break-in they exit the engine with the exhaust.

am

I have seen team engines from big brands that clearly have been ran, but no sign of any combustion ;-)

JoePit

iTrader: (15)

I would like to see exactly how much is produced during a breakin, and how it's not damaging the engine before leaving the exhaust. Next engine I breakin I'm going to collect the exhaust and see for myself. My bet is if there is any you wouldn't even be able to see it.

H83R

iTrader: (24)

the special oil can be computer controlled to reach 200 Celsius = 392 degrees F
that is plenty heat for the engine. and the oil is filtered..
It is Heat cycled through 2 stages and reachine a max of 3,000RPM
I think its cool, and will be interested on trying it out..

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

I think theyre onto something... whats a gallon of fuel cost? Its pretty much wasted to perform breakin, so 1-2 gallons before the engine is at the sweet spot. $40-$80 bucks down the drain.

Points I think are valid:

The oil is heated like mentioned earlier

There is no plug installed so therefore there is much less stress on the rod than regular breakin

Heat cycles do nothing to the materials... your not heating it higher than when it was manufactured, therefore molecularity nothing will change

I also dont see "metal particles" going through the engine. The lapping is so fine if anything went through the engine during this process it would go through the engine while running

Certainly interesting

JoePit

iTrader: (15)

Little off topic but you're saying heat cycling is a waste of time during break In? Thinking about it makes total sense to me. Heating of the engine prior to starting obviously takes some pressure off the internals, but the only way to get rid of the mechanical pinch is running the engine?

Heat cycling takes so much time. My next break in I'm just going to continuously run fuel through it and see how things work. I do like this concept but sensing my engines overseas is not going to happen.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Yes of course pre-heating the engine helps take stress off the rod and piston while firing it up. I do that through the entire life of the engine if its colder than say 70 deg.

Ive never noticed any gain from cycling the temps from ambient to say 220 and back down several times. The last breakin method I liked most was the Cryul method of opening the hsn several turns further than stock and opening the throttle 100% to allow as much fuel through the motor as possible.

The event of lapping the piston in with the sleeve is the most important thing. Considering this machine controls the temp, obviously has ample lube, and as little load on the rod as possible (remember no plug installed). Seems to be the best overall method imo

SoCalTazer

iTrader: (2)

So this has me envisioning ...

An industrial drill press

A small fish tank

Drill press vise submereged in oil filled small fish tank

CB end of crank chucked up in the drill press

Fish tank heater - warming the oil

Pumps circulating said oil and running thru the warmer and filter?

Redneck version ....

rbakker

Thanks, we like the idea also..
Here the designer of the break-in machine, at the moment we have done the break-in Dutch for 100+ engines, works really well. Also sold dozens of machines since they are available now.

In short experience shows:
- After break-in no wear of conrod or glowplug
- a lot of bottom end torque and high rpm
- a fuel efficient motor
- you dont have to use 2 liter of fuel for break-in
- you dont have to use 1 set of tyres during break-in
- you dont have to replace the glowplug after break-in
- you dont have to change the conrod after break-in
- You dont have to be busy at the track for 3 hours during the break-in process
- It`s a lot cheaper compared to the normal break-in (tyres, conrod, glowplug, fuel, time)

The heatcycling, floating particles, different operating temperatures compared to track usage, different thermal expention coefficient dont are a problem. But we allready knew that.

Here a bit more to read about all the facts.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-n...eak-dutch.html

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Break...73319342753347

With a little bit of smart thnkng and hobbying a break-in machine cann be made at home, give it a try, its cool and easy.

Greetz and have fun at the track,

Roy

rider313

iTrader: (94)

About $650 is a lot of money for one to break even on break in cost in the long run.