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New break-in method

Old 04-24-2015, 03:54 AM
  #46  
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Well, if you do not change a rod on time you might smash your forehead to the wall... A 40 dollar rod against a 400 dollar engine.... (I have experienced once )

Regarding a lot of crap on these forums... Yes, so true!!! Regarding engines it is sometimes one great comedy show to enjoy.
Even when the Xray NT1 (onroad section) becomes World Champion then still there are people whining the NT1 is outdated. With every year a new car and new engines people think they will go faster with it but with proper maintenance on their current car it will not be different. People must learn to drive fast laptimes instead thinking they can buy fast laptimes. (hmmm... nice signature)

Regarding the nationality, I observed on the forums that if it is not USA it cannot be good.

I nice example about being technical.... 3 years ago the EFRA decided to alow tire treatment. Capricorn did come up with a nice machine costing 250 euro. Oh man, you should have heared most drivers. I had an efra race in planning and made a machine with some old worn parts of my car and some wood and aluminium. Total cost was not more than a 30-35 euro. Beside some people saying it can never be good a lot of people asked to make one for them. yeah right... you want one, make one! or else buy one.

And indeed, time will tell if it will stay or not.
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:31 AM
  #47  
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I agree with the ever escalating price that goes along with this hobby. It is hard to get new people involved with racing when I tell them the minimum investment cost to get racing.
However this process of engine break in looks great. I hate wasting the time and fuel =$$ breaking in engines.
I ame just curious how long it takes to do break in with this set up. It will be a good investment for someone who runs an engine business.
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:47 AM
  #48  
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I tend to also think that break-in itself is overrated. I'm not by any means saying blow it off completely. But afaic there is no need for any such thing as a gallon break-in..(not to mention longer..) Preheat and go easy and rich for the first ten tanks then letter'rip (OK, perhaps at a slightly rich setting...) would probably work just as well as any overly cautious fuel-wasting longer approach to break-in. I've tended to be a budget engine kind of person (i.e. cheapskate) over the years, and remember hearing about plenty of people talking about super high-pinch Go's and Alpha's which they did not baby during break-in or draw out extra long, and still had the engines go a good 6-8 gallons. Part of the problem here is people wanting to be extra careful with some $500 Speed or Novarossi Virtus or whatever, which given the price is understandable. Maybe try a $175 P5XLT first and then your sphincter doesn't have to be clenched quite as tightly when it comes to breaking it in.. Especially for guys relatively new to nitro.

That's part of the cool thing about nitro actually. It's not all the engine -it's the user who determines how well a given engine runs - with all the variables involved - plug, pipe, fuel, climate, break-in, tune, etc..(not to mention the DRIVER...) Somebody with little clue but deep pockets can go buy a Speed or modded Virtus, but not have as well-running an engine as somebody who really knows what he's doing with a P5XLT which costs a third as much. OK, at the super super high levels the guys who know what they're doing fight and scrape to get an extra six seconds of runtime or whatever(not like they pay for their engines anyway..), so fine. But %90 of racers are not those guys, or ever going to be.

Maybe there should just be a P5XLT class ha ha...
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Old 04-24-2015, 07:49 AM
  #49  
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You don't have to buy anything if it's not in your budget. I'm interested in buying 1 but I want it compete on arrival. For 650 I want the tank and all. You guys could make small plexiglass tanks and ship them safely. 650 bux and I have to go shopping to make it work don't sound right.
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Old 04-24-2015, 11:25 AM
  #50  
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By all means do i hate doing break in, I feel one can achieve great results with a break in bench over a in car break in. I think this idea is way cool, but i will stick with a $150 bench over this.
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Old 04-25-2015, 10:07 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by JoePit
You don't have to buy anything if it's not in your budget. I'm interested in buying 1 but I want it compete on arrival. For 650 I want the tank and all. You guys could make small plexiglass tanks and ship them safely. 650 bux and I have to go shopping to make it work don't sound right.
Tank not included.
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Old 04-25-2015, 11:45 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by rbakker
Tank not included.
You had mentioned that one could use this method by using their brain and using already existing items etc .. or at least it was implied i believe.

I think Ive come close to a redneck / DIY kinda thing, but wanted to know a couple of things, if you would share.

Can you shed some light on how long the engines are run in at certain rpm intervals - in general terms.

Also - before you machined this part ...



How did you effectively attach a rotation motor source to the crankshaft?

Is there stuff in our tool box / pit bags - spare parts bins we could use? Ive been racking my brain and thats essentially the last bit to the puzzle for me.
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Old 04-25-2015, 12:35 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by SoCalTazer
You had mentioned that one could use this method by using their brain and using already existing items etc .. or at least it was implied i believe.

I think Ive come close to a redneck / DIY kinda thing, but wanted to know a couple of things, if you would share.

Can you shed some light on how long the engines are run in at certain rpm intervals - in general terms.

.

How did you effectively attach a rotation motor source to the crankshaft?

Is there stuff in our tool box / pit bags - spare parts bins we could use? Ive been racking my brain and thats essentially the last bit to the puzzle for me.
That part is called a coupling and can be found for example here:
http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail...0043641%3A%3Ad
Always used this part from the start.

The engines are run in between 4 to 8 hours.

The most important part is process control, so you need a certain rpm that can be hold by the motor. Also you dont want to change to much the temperature, keep it constant.

The difficult thing is components that are cheap, you could go with a thea boiler on a temp circuit, but you want to make sure that the local oil around the heatr does not reach temp. too high, you dont want the oil to explode..or catch fire.

A too heavy heating element has high local oil temps.

Offcoure you have to try different parts, took me 4 or 5 new designs to get it right.
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Old 04-26-2015, 09:59 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by rbakker
That part is called a coupling and can be found for example here:
http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail...0043641%3A%3Ad
Always used this part from the start.

The engines are run in between 4 to 8 hours.

The most important part is process control, so you need a certain rpm that can be hold by the motor. Also you dont want to change to much the temperature, keep it constant.

The difficult thing is components that are cheap, you could go with a thea boiler on a temp circuit, but you want to make sure that the local oil around the heatr does not reach temp. too high, you dont want the oil to explode..or catch fire.

A too heavy heating element has high local oil temps.

Offcoure you have to try different parts, took me 4 or 5 new designs to get it right.
Cheers for that. Appreciated.

So Ive done a little walmart shopping recently ...

Bearing puller a la Boca Bearing videos ... :-) $18.00 walmart [ dual purpose now ]




4 Piece stainless steel cannister set - $22.00 - Walmart - can use the other 3 for house stuff ... or batt storage or other rc related adventures.



As you might tell by the picture - Ive got a armada of mills being rebuilt and will require break in. After pulling apart several that had been stored - poorly - new bearings at a minimum and im finding Piston Sleeve issues as well. So far Im up to 5 engines that will need run in before use. So this method is really starting to attract my attention.

Thanks again for your help.
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Old 04-26-2015, 10:56 AM
  #55  
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You can always think of this:



Some of thes small fryers can set a regulated temperature as low from 80 degrees C
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Old 04-26-2015, 11:08 AM
  #56  
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I have stripped an old car window wiper motor and did modify it with some mounting points. It will get a Mugen MRX4 16/48 pulley to lower the rpm and give more torque. Using an old MRX4 shaft I can use a short dogbone to drive the crankshaft.
Attached Thumbnails New break-in method-dsc_0826%5B1%5D.jpg   New break-in method-dsc_0825%5B1%5D.jpg  
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Old 04-26-2015, 12:08 PM
  #57  
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wow, i just cant understand going to such complicated procedures/machining/tooling to run in a model car engine! i wish that type of engineering would go into something more useful, like a total redesign of the carburetor, perhaps a ringed piston, a better clutch bearing system, a replaceable mechanical front seal to isolate the front bearing

but break in? cmon... its a toy car engine, heat it up, start it, and tune tune tune.. no matter how good of a break in you do, theres so many other problems with nitro engine design for car use that if taken care of, would make running the same as starting your honda civic...
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Old 04-26-2015, 06:31 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by the wrench
wow, i just cant understand going to such complicated procedures/machining/tooling to run in a model car engine! i wish that type of engineering would go into something more useful, like a total redesign of the carburetor, perhaps a ringed piston, a better clutch bearing system, a replaceable mechanical front seal to isolate the front bearing

but break in? cmon... its a toy car engine, heat it up, start it, and tune tune tune.. no matter how good of a break in you do, theres so many other problems with nitro engine design for car use that if taken care of, would make running the same as starting your honda civic...
I dont have the engineering chops - nor the time nor the $$$ to engage in the redesign of the things you mention. I do however; have a gaggle o' nitro engines to break in. Engine break in to me - sucks... time and money and ... so many other things. Exhaust fumes, fuel, place and time, noise issues, the mess of puking phat engines all over a race car [ or even a break in thrasher ] tires that get soaked in fuel blow by - tires wasted running a car around on pavement ... conrods - glow plugs and gallons of fuel.

The idea of spending a few hours rigging up a system like this - to let engines run in whilst I do OTHER things on my rides and in my life - sans all those other negatives I mentioned above - sounds amazingly attractive.

Its NOT about some super high tech break in method that makes engines run and perform better, its about eliminating waste and cost and hassle.
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Old 04-26-2015, 06:35 PM
  #59  
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Exactly.....
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Old 04-27-2015, 12:14 AM
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The "waste and cost and hassle" is exaggerated and blown out of proportion though. Preheat it, run ten fat tanks through it, and off you go... More or less.

I actually like break-in. Every new engine is different. I like seeing how each new one develops...

The worst things are, OK, the cost of fuel generally, and more than any of the other stuff mentioned above afaic, wasted clutch wear... Still, it's not that big a deal. Brrapp brrapp...
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