OS Speed B2101 engine
10-17-2014, 05:52 PM
#138
My motor has about 4.5litres on it now and it still has a bit of mechanical pinch, OS must have changed something in the last couple of years since i last ran an OS as they use to lose their pinch in the first 2 litres.
Coming from the Reds engines, the OS is a monster, not quite as controllable but the brute force is fun to drive. I've tamed it down with a 6mm restrictor so it's much easier to drive now. I've got some nitro mizers aswell to try so it'll be interesting to see the run time i can get as with the Reds i could manage 11:30 quite easily track to track.
Coming from the Reds engines, the OS is a monster, not quite as controllable but the brute force is fun to drive. I've tamed it down with a 6mm restrictor so it's much easier to drive now. I've got some nitro mizers aswell to try so it'll be interesting to see the run time i can get as with the Reds i could manage 11:30 quite easily track to track.
10-17-2014, 11:50 PM
#139
I have the opposite feeling towards my engine. I have nearly a gallon on it and like you said it still has pinch, definitely isn't going away fast. But having run properly tuned spec 1 speeds, spec 2 speeds, samurai short stroke, alphas, and reds, I have to say I am EXTREMELY impressed with my b2101.
I expected overwhelming power like the spec 1 and 2 long strokes, but the power of this engine is the most manageable of any engine I have ever driven. The bottom end is crisp but not even close to overwhelming, and it pulls through the rpm range range with such smooth power and great consistency. I consider this engine to be great on fuel as well as one of the easiest engines to put down power with because it is so well designed.
As long as this engine stays available I will never buy a long or short stroke again.
I expected overwhelming power like the spec 1 and 2 long strokes, but the power of this engine is the most manageable of any engine I have ever driven. The bottom end is crisp but not even close to overwhelming, and it pulls through the rpm range range with such smooth power and great consistency. I consider this engine to be great on fuel as well as one of the easiest engines to put down power with because it is so well designed.
As long as this engine stays available I will never buy a long or short stroke again.
10-17-2014, 11:50 PM
#140
Tech Adept
I don't think any of the issues you had were anything to do with me or my engines.. Among other things at the time you were using severely contaminated fuel, I still have the pictures you sent of your fuel bottle with all the contaminates in it, it was pretty bad......And I also have a email saved from one of your fellow CFF Teamates at the time apologizing about the fuel and telling me they and you were having huge issues due to outside sourcing of their production, apparently the owner of CFF was forced to stop his own production and the outsourcing turned into a disaster, tons of guys were having issues right along with you.....The one engine I got back from you was a P5 that was in perfect condition, All I did was reset the needles and put in some good fuel and the engine ran like a top, even today after countless repinches it runs quite well.. I even have 3 or 4 different videos featuring that engine.....
Anyways hate all you want...If you have done your own testing with blocking the vacuum port and found different results then me then so be it. There is no question for me, I have been monitoring and testing this theory over the last 3 years and have screened hundreds of engines so I am pretty confident on my findings.. I have to ask how many front bearings have you changed ? and when you change the front bearings are they gritty ? and if they are not gritty why change them ? and then if they are gritty do you take the time to spray the bearing out over a white paper ? myself I have done all this, hundreds of times over the last 3 years...I Have changed hundreds of front bearings and have taken the time to spray each out to see whats inside...engines with the bypass blocked fare much much better in terms of dirt in the bearing , they are always much cleaner with much less grit inside..I have nothing to gain by lying to people about this......If anything I am putting myself out there to be criticized.....so I would have to be foolish to even tell people this if I wasn't 100 % sure it was something that could help people...
Its funny but over the years quite a few engines were known to have bad front bearings that were often recommended to be changed before even running the engine.. I believe some of the old OS were like that with many upgrading to TKO fronts....... However the reality is the issue had nothing at all to do with a bad bearing or anything with the bearing at all , the issue was a vacuum leak thru the bearing causing dirt to get sucked into the bearing.. .
Anyways hate all you want...If you have done your own testing with blocking the vacuum port and found different results then me then so be it. There is no question for me, I have been monitoring and testing this theory over the last 3 years and have screened hundreds of engines so I am pretty confident on my findings.. I have to ask how many front bearings have you changed ? and when you change the front bearings are they gritty ? and if they are not gritty why change them ? and then if they are gritty do you take the time to spray the bearing out over a white paper ? myself I have done all this, hundreds of times over the last 3 years...I Have changed hundreds of front bearings and have taken the time to spray each out to see whats inside...engines with the bypass blocked fare much much better in terms of dirt in the bearing , they are always much cleaner with much less grit inside..I have nothing to gain by lying to people about this......If anything I am putting myself out there to be criticized.....so I would have to be foolish to even tell people this if I wasn't 100 % sure it was something that could help people...
Its funny but over the years quite a few engines were known to have bad front bearings that were often recommended to be changed before even running the engine.. I believe some of the old OS were like that with many upgrading to TKO fronts....... However the reality is the issue had nothing at all to do with a bad bearing or anything with the bearing at all , the issue was a vacuum leak thru the bearing causing dirt to get sucked into the bearing.. .
10-18-2014, 01:03 AM
#141
Tech Master
My motor has about 4.5litres on it now and it still has a bit of mechanical pinch, OS must have changed something in the last couple of years since i last ran an OS as they use to lose their pinch in the first 2 litres.
Coming from the Reds engines, the OS is a monster, not quite as controllable but the brute force is fun to drive. I've tamed it down with a 6mm restrictor so it's much easier to drive now. I've got some nitro mizers aswell to try so it'll be interesting to see the run time i can get as with the Reds i could manage 11:30 quite easily track to track.
Coming from the Reds engines, the OS is a monster, not quite as controllable but the brute force is fun to drive. I've tamed it down with a 6mm restrictor so it's much easier to drive now. I've got some nitro mizers aswell to try so it'll be interesting to see the run time i can get as with the Reds i could manage 11:30 quite easily track to track.
10-18-2014, 01:49 AM
#142
To be fair i ran the TE2 with the smallest nitro mizer (5.0mm) to tame it down and get fuel economy. The Reds accelerated faster than any other engine i've run but did it in a very controllable manner. The way i drive is i roll on to the throttle so a crisp & powerful bottom-mid is what i need, i find the OS to be more powerful, it could be that it sounds angrier and is pulling a lot more revs but it does feel it also. I can't get back to my local track until monday so i won't know true runtime until then.
10-18-2014, 02:21 AM
#143
Tech Adept
May i ask, would you know how it is compared to the Reds R7 evoke?
10-18-2014, 04:39 AM
#145
no not at all... the issue isn't the bearing , the issue is the dirt passing thru the bearing into the engine.....
The vacuum port theory is easy to test....just do a brake cleaner test at the nose of the engine when its running..a engine will a open vacuum port will stalll instantly when it sees nitro spray...However a engine with the vacuum port blocked will nearly be unaffected by nitro spray.....it makes a big difference.......
10-18-2014, 05:50 AM
#146
Tech Adept
thanks for the info
10-18-2014, 06:51 AM
#147
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
no not at all... the issue isn't the bearing , the issue is the dirt passing thru the bearing into the engine.....
The vacuum port theory is easy to test....just do a brake cleaner test at the nose of the engine when its running..a engine will a open vacuum port will stalll instantly when it sees nitro spray...However a engine with the vacuum port blocked will nearly be unaffected by nitro spray.....it makes a big difference.......
The vacuum port theory is easy to test....just do a brake cleaner test at the nose of the engine when its running..a engine will a open vacuum port will stalll instantly when it sees nitro spray...However a engine with the vacuum port blocked will nearly be unaffected by nitro spray.....it makes a big difference.......
10-18-2014, 07:27 AM
#148
I will start by saying I have one of your engines and it has always ran perfect and I'm pretty sure it has the vacuum port plugged. All my other engines don't have vacuum port plugged and I have never pulled one that was full of dirt why is this ? I think the vacuum port may be a problem to some but I think it's only because of bad bearing or something else they are doing wrong otherwise everyones bearings would be packed full of dirt.
10-18-2014, 08:11 AM
#149
you know what kills front bearings or introduce dirt into engine..
1) blowing off your engine with an air compressor, trying to get rid of dirt around the flywheel. the air forces the seal to un seat itself..
2) using brake cleaner on a dirty front bearing without taking off flywheel.. when dirt is mixing with the liquid it seeps behind the shield and thus cause the shield to be less effective..
how i know this you asked.. well i ave been a victim of dirt in engine on many occasions.. and i stopped doing the 2 above things and engine is flawless for 8 plus gallons... original bearing, both steel ..
1) blowing off your engine with an air compressor, trying to get rid of dirt around the flywheel. the air forces the seal to un seat itself..
2) using brake cleaner on a dirty front bearing without taking off flywheel.. when dirt is mixing with the liquid it seeps behind the shield and thus cause the shield to be less effective..
how i know this you asked.. well i ave been a victim of dirt in engine on many occasions.. and i stopped doing the 2 above things and engine is flawless for 8 plus gallons... original bearing, both steel ..
10-18-2014, 11:42 AM
#150
Tech Master
There is one more take to the vacumport thingy..
If the engine is made perfect, the clearence between crank and crancase is the seal. But, there are tolerances and when this seal is not perfect, your engine will benefit the moast from the plugged vacumhole. I have had 4 team engines two from Reds and two from Novarossi. Neither of theese engine stopped when i sprayed them with brakeclean against the front bearing. I have had atleast!10 v-specs and two of thoose were much better than the rest, and they were always easyer than the rest with tuning.
If the engine is made perfect, the clearence between crank and crancase is the seal. But, there are tolerances and when this seal is not perfect, your engine will benefit the moast from the plugged vacumhole. I have had 4 team engines two from Reds and two from Novarossi. Neither of theese engine stopped when i sprayed them with brakeclean against the front bearing. I have had atleast!10 v-specs and two of thoose were much better than the rest, and they were always easyer than the rest with tuning.