1LikesGo Engine USA 2011 Thread
04-21-2011 | 07:17 PM
#1279
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Had power from top to bottom,from full tank to empty no funny revs, burps, farts or pops!! Me so happy! Is this how it was suppose to run after a 1/2 gallon? I have a little over a gallon with a break in shim. I thought I had some power when I switched carbs with the short lsn. That was nothing and I'm running rich!!
He he he he - Yes Matt, that's how it's supposed to be 
Get rid of that break in shim my man, and let that HO scream.
They are one powerful little mofo
Looks like that LSN is the culprit - especially if fuel etc is leaking past it into the carb boot.
04-21-2011 | 07:33 PM
#1281
Grizz you really think I should drop the run In shim? I have a little over 1 gallon through it. And I still need to heat up to get to turn over. Just burning rubber wheel up. It is freeing up but I was thinking of another qt. before removing. The guys were right about taking apart to much but I swear I was chasing an air leak. Some good came out of all of this,if any one else runs into this problem they won't need to spend 4-5 plus days trying to figure out. And you know an air leak, hook up 2' fuel line seal carb/exhaust blow like a pro!!! look for bubbles. I just started process of elimination. I'm going to send in the carb Trey is sending new one. I'm hoping that they can add some insight into whats wrong with it.
Thanks Puddin will get it out asap.
look for bubbles. I just started process of elimination. I'm going to send in the carb Trey is sending new one. I'm hoping that they can add some insight into whats wrong with it.Thanks Puddin will get it out asap.
04-21-2011 | 07:49 PM
#1283
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I forgot yours was exceptionally tight Matt. Up to you mate, your the one on the spot who can feel the pinch etc.
I don't like to run the extra shim too long myself personally, only for the initial 12 or so tanks, just to aid in starting when the motor is really new-tight (I think I just created a new word there
). Then I just take it easy until it feels right. Whatever works for you mate.
I do see a little niggle coming into the thread. I hope we are not going to let this take the thread on a downhill spiral. That would be a shame.
I don't like to run the extra shim too long myself personally, only for the initial 12 or so tanks, just to aid in starting when the motor is really new-tight (I think I just created a new word there
). Then I just take it easy until it feels right. Whatever works for you mate.I do see a little niggle coming into the thread. I hope we are not going to let this take the thread on a downhill spiral. That would be a shame.
04-21-2011 | 07:57 PM
#1284
I broke in a GXII piston/sleeve/rod in a gx5r case with the gx5r crank,head and head button with .5mm shim stack...and had no problems except a bad os plug after 1qt of fuel....Everything has gone smooth as could ever ask for....but just wondering...should I add .1-.2mm of shim to it?....I got confused on the explanation of the difference on headbuttons
04-21-2011 | 08:18 PM
#1286
I broke in a GXII piston/sleeve/rod in a gx5r case with the gx5r crank,head and head button with .5mm shim stack...and had no problems except a bad os plug after 1qt of fuel....Everything has gone smooth as could ever ask for....but just wondering...should I add .1-.2mm of shim to it?....I got confused on the explanation of the difference on headbuttons
I forgot yours was exceptionally tight Matt. Up to you mate, your the one on the spot who can feel the pinch etc.
I don't like to run the extra shim too long myself personally, only for the initial 12 or so tanks, just to aid in starting when the motor is really new-tight (I think I just created a new word there). Then I just take it easy until it feels right. Whatever works for you mate.
I do see a little niggle coming into the thread. I hope we are not going to let this take the thread on a downhill spiral. That would be a shame.
I don't like to run the extra shim too long myself personally, only for the initial 12 or so tanks, just to aid in starting when the motor is really new-tight (I think I just created a new word there
). Then I just take it easy until it feels right. Whatever works for you mate.I do see a little niggle coming into the thread. I hope we are not going to let this take the thread on a downhill spiral. That would be a shame.
04-21-2011 | 08:23 PM
#1287
I always get dogged for not running a return spring/band. Never had a problem either, even if my battery comes disconnected it just idles a little high. Now I zip tie my battery together so I don't have to worry about that hahaha
04-21-2011 | 08:46 PM
#1288
I once too thought that would be enough. Then my buddies battery died mid heat. It took off like a bat out of he'll. Save your self a hassle and get some goodie bands. If you don't want to go to the womens hair section at wally and get some I will send you a bunch for free. Just so I know you won't have any issues.
04-21-2011 | 08:59 PM
#1289
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,174
From: a very small town in wisconsin that is in the middle of absolutely no where
hi ruune, i myself have actually got some tests done on whether these taiwan engines are actually made from different material.tests completed 2/5/10
i bought a Go-engines GX3R & Alpha s852(orange head)
head button, piston,(not piston pin) sleeve, crank case, cooling head, crank shaft(not including the TiNi coating) ARE ALL THE SAME MATERIAL,
The design and so forth are different. piston pins are made from two different types of alloy, the bushes within the conrods. bearings are different, o-rings are different within the carburetor.
so next time ruune, conduct some tests of your own to back your theory, of course you being a part of "GO engines" your going to say they are different and back them as much as possible, but when it comes down to what they are made out of, PROVE they are different before you go and make assumtions that someone is wrong and in this case 808gx7r is RIGHT "only to the extent of the main things such as case, sleeve etc."
so in my eyes you should be saying sorry to 808gx7r. and since he runs both and saying about runtime/tuning/life span, he should atleast have a idea of the concept of material being the same.
however, from his point in view, being as he uses them both if he is somehow wrong, its not his fult due to the fact he runs both and says that runtime/tuning/life span are similar.
and for anyone else's info, i run a GX5R(and i love it!!) as my main motor and have a brand new alpha ready to be broken in.
~ Corey douglas, owner of RCExtreme hobby store.
i bought a Go-engines GX3R & Alpha s852(orange head)
head button, piston,(not piston pin) sleeve, crank case, cooling head, crank shaft(not including the TiNi coating) ARE ALL THE SAME MATERIAL,
The design and so forth are different. piston pins are made from two different types of alloy, the bushes within the conrods. bearings are different, o-rings are different within the carburetor.
so next time ruune, conduct some tests of your own to back your theory, of course you being a part of "GO engines" your going to say they are different and back them as much as possible, but when it comes down to what they are made out of, PROVE they are different before you go and make assumtions that someone is wrong and in this case 808gx7r is RIGHT "only to the extent of the main things such as case, sleeve etc."
so in my eyes you should be saying sorry to 808gx7r. and since he runs both and saying about runtime/tuning/life span, he should atleast have a idea of the concept of material being the same.
however, from his point in view, being as he uses them both if he is somehow wrong, its not his fult due to the fact he runs both and says that runtime/tuning/life span are similar.
and for anyone else's info, i run a GX5R(and i love it!!) as my main motor and have a brand new alpha ready to be broken in.
~ Corey douglas, owner of RCExtreme hobby store.
some ppl.