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Originally Posted by 808gx7r
(Post 8995997)
for those wondering, i do still run 2 go engines. gx7r and 5r...
and alpha vs go engine, what REALLY is the differnce, besides a few changes rod and all are the same,(not porting etc.) but like same material, along with like argus etc... instead there should be a "Taiwan engine thread" |
Originally Posted by PUDDIN
(Post 8993060)
asaraneta: What plug are you using? I have never had that problem. What did you mean bye clean the engine? take apart and clean or clean the outside?
Matt- thanks for the kind words. |
Originally Posted by asaraneta
(Post 8996090)
I used the Go plug that comes with the engine. I opened the engine and cleaned all inside with WD 40 (took off the piston and sleeve; carb with after run oil only) and dropped enough after run oil inside the engine.
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Originally Posted by Flanno
(Post 8991039)
1st, It's never been a problem, as I said above, "I let the engine climatise first", I use good plugs and my tune never has to be that fine to still get good power and run time.
+ I'd rather leave oil residue in my crank and no nitro to atract moisture between rounds and I also like having a crank pin and con rod that lasts. 2nd, I hate seeing people trying to shut down an engine runaway by the flywheel with they'r heel etc...I seen one one day finaly catch the car, then fumbled around for what seemed like a decade trying to do it with his foot on the flywheel...it eventualy popped as it had no load on it at high RPM for so long, bye bye engine. I'd much rather see em force the car to the ground with a good grip, immediately, so the clutch slows the RPM and also block the exhaust stinger with the toe of their shoe.....I'd rather loose a clutch and possible a front bearing seal than a whole engine. 3rd, I think your lost, the Alpha thread is 5 threads down. |
Originally Posted by deadmancourt
(Post 8996119)
Wd40 and after run oil will foul a plug real quick....take the plug out, then turn over the motor on your bumb box without the plug and see how much of that stuff comes spraying out....put in a new plug and try again...you may go through a couple plugs,depending on how much wd40 and after run oil you used...but it should all burn off.....or you can take off the back plate and try to flush it all out with nitro;)
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Originally Posted by asaraneta
(Post 8996136)
Been using WD 40 since I started GP RC..might be doing something wrong here ever since but I am not aware, and maybe you are right. So what is the best way in cleaning engines inside (except carb and parts with o-ring)? I use to make it a habbit every hard race I do clean my engines inside.
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Originally Posted by 808gx7r
(Post 8995997)
for those wondering, i do still run 2 go engines. gx7r and 5r...
and alpha vs go engine, what REALLY is the differnce, besides a few changes rod and all are the same,(not porting etc.) but like same material, along with like argus etc... instead there should be a "Taiwan engine thread" One other thing is that materials and designs have drastically changed from the gx to the GXII line. The GXII is a completly new design. Although the new sleeve works in the older motors, the timing is different, port shape is different, even the squash at tdc is tighter (higher compression) Oh, BTW I just ordered another 25 engines. If this keeps up ill be ordering 25-50 motors every 2-3 weeks. The hardest part is estimating market demand, as it fluctuates so much. |
be very careful of wd40 with silicone ramped crank inserts..i know the silicone/putty in the os speeds react very badly to wd40 and it goes all soft.
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Originally Posted by Ruune
(Post 8996271)
actually, we use different alloys in the piston, case wrist pins, and inner layer of the sleeve. Additionally our castings are different, internal case porting is different, crank material is different, crank machining and coatings are different. Our new crank is also ramped and has two different coatings on it. In fact, perhaps the bearing size and Conrod dimensions are the same. Other than that, we are different from alpha, argus, and arrow.
One other thing is that materials and designs have drastically changed from the gx to the GXII line. The GXII is a completly new design. Although the new sleeve works in the older motors, the timing is different, port shape is different, even the squash at tdc is tighter (higher compression) Oh, BTW I just ordered another 25 engines. If this keeps up ill be ordering 25-50 motors every 2-3 weeks. The hardest part is estimating market demand, as it fluctuates so much. they perform the same... same price...tune the same, basically same look. you can go on and on about differnt coatings, that wont really make much of a difference except stand out. 50 bucks says if i get my go piston and alpha piston metal tested, they'll come back the same :lol::lol: edit: so if i coat my piston will that it THAT MUCH BETTER TOO?? |
Originally Posted by Ruune
(Post 8996271)
actually, we use different alloys in the piston, case wrist pins, and inner layer of the sleeve. Additionally our castings are different, internal case porting is different, crank material is different, crank machining and coatings are different. Our new crank is also ramped and has two different coatings on it. In fact, perhaps the bearing size and Conrod dimensions are the same. Other than that, we are different from alpha, argus, and arrow.
One other thing is that materials and designs have drastically changed from the gx to the GXII line. The GXII is a completly new design. Although the new sleeve works in the older motors, the timing is different, port shape is different, even the squash at tdc is tighter (higher compression) Oh, BTW I just ordered another 25 engines. If this keeps up ill be ordering 25-50 motors every 2-3 weeks. The hardest part is estimating market demand, as it fluctuates so much. Yes, those ho's are going fast. Your like me, sort of got taken by surprise with the popularity of this motor. I have another dozen on the way to top up stocks after the first batch of 36 I got in have all but dissapeared. The scary part is we only have a total population of around 3.5 million, so the RC market is very small. With all the other motors available out there, to sell that proportion of motors in 2 weeks into a market that small is quite amazing. I guess people know quality and value for money when they see it :) |
Originally Posted by So*Cal AFDude
(Post 8996120)
I snag the car and go for the throttle servo and push it shut. Has worked for me a handful of times in a matter of seconds. The key is staying composed and simply pushing it shut. I've seen so many people fumble and be scared sh!tless from runaways.
for example ;) http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/o...8/P1040251.jpg It's home made, stronger than the ones you can buy. |
i always run an elastic band around mine,worked faultless in all the years i have been racing nitro.
regarding stopping engines,i always cut mine with the flywheel..thats how we start them,thats how we stop em :) |
Originally Posted by 808gx7r
(Post 8996510)
im not taking a shot here but i must say this.
they perform the same... same price...tune the same, basically same look. you can go on and on about differnt coatings, that wont really make much of a difference except stand out. 50 bucks says if i get my go piston and alpha piston metal tested, they'll come back the same :lol::lol: edit: so if i coat my piston will that it THAT MUCH BETTER TOO?? Piston is not coated. The sleeve is. Unless you've compared these motors on a dyno and not by "seat of your pants" driving, and have dyno charts to back up claims, please take your disinformation back to the Aussie forum in which you were banned. If you wish provide useful, subjective, insightful, informed posts, then welcome. Otherwise you're going to be ignored here. Thank you. |
Originally Posted by fastboy
(Post 8996310)
be very careful of wd40 with silicone ramped crank inserts..i know the silicone/putty in the os speeds react very badly to wd40 and it goes all soft.
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Originally Posted by 808gx7r
(Post 8996510)
im not taking a shot here but i must say this.
they perform the same... same price...tune the same, basically same look. you can go on and on about differnt coatings, that wont really make much of a difference except stand out. 50 bucks says if i get my go piston and alpha piston metal tested, they'll come back the same :lol::lol: edit: so if i coat my piston will that it THAT MUCH BETTER TOO?? I don't think you know what your talking about in this situation. I have never driven a Alpha motor but I know several Alpha team drivers who have driven my car and ran there own go motor and told me that the go motors had way more power and the material was better in their opinion. Example there at one time where only 3 maybe 4 speaker manufacturers in the world but yet some speakers are better than others. I have been in a speaker manufacturers building and they showed me materials they use on 100.00 speaker and material they use on 500.00 speaker same manufacturer but diffrent performance and material. Like I said I have never driven an Alpha motor or seen one apart but I have been told by several people the Go is better. But that's what's great about freedom of speech. O and as far as tuning the same. Every Go driver I know uses the go Carb and every Alpha driver I know uses the O.S. Carb. |
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