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-   -   Go Engine USA 2011 Thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/offroad-nitro-engine-forum/465409-go-engine-usa-2011-thread.html)

Ruune 04-19-2011 07:36 PM

LOL Robert, I'd listen to puddin' if I were you.

deadmancourt 04-19-2011 07:47 PM


Originally Posted by PUDDIN (Post 8989440)
Y was that funny?

not you puddin...sorry...it was supposed to quote Rider313 when he talked about the HO bieng a B**** for Bigmatt :lol:...stupid android phone:D

PUDDIN 04-19-2011 07:47 PM

Thanks Trey its all good everybody has there way.

deadmancourt 04-19-2011 07:52 PM


Originally Posted by Ruune (Post 8989650)
LOL Robert, I'd listen to puddin' if I were you.

thats what happens when you reply from a phone:(
puddins way sounds great:nod: didnt mean to post right after his...it was supposed to qoute Rider313:mad::D
we have been getting atleast 8 gallons out of 1<--- stupid andriod phone) OUR motors with nothing changed but maybe a set of bearings(unless a mounting tab breaks:lol:)

inferno13 04-19-2011 07:54 PM


Originally Posted by PUDDIN (Post 8989711)
Thanks Trey its all good everybody has there way.

indeed they do, most guys think the engine is tight but dont realize there starter box is weak! i modded my starter box and will turn over a seized engine if needed...LOL. 2-4.5 550 motors with a 6S lipo, you can break in a engine without even starting it...LMAO:lol:

bigmatt 04-19-2011 08:18 PM

This is just the way it is. Puddin was right, about a gallon and it would start to free up. I am at 3/4 of a gallon but noticed the fuel,and the tune went off. Thought line? But went back and saw where leak was which isn't very common for a go engine. I had only 1 other with the leaking front bearing. So I thought I would get a bearing out of my collection,I'm out. I ordered some avids no big deal. I may drive to Chico and get one from amain to get me through the week end to finish off the break in. As far as Puddin's recommendation when you think about it it's a good one. For 35.00 you get it sealed and broke in,not bad.
Now I am not here to start anything or say anything bad about Trey or GO-ENGINE. I already listed where I feel I made my mistakes buy not doing my routine. And that includes putting it under water to check for leaks. STUFF HAPPENS!! It's life. I'm sure if Trey who by the way has been more then help full and Puddin what can I say a guy driving for Losi/GO takes time to answer a question from someone he's never met shows just how much of a class act he is. If they felt there was a problem with my particular engine it would get taken care of.
As far as the engine goes, for the price it will be the one to have. PERIOD!

inferno13 04-19-2011 08:22 PM


Originally Posted by bigmatt (Post 8989865)
This is just the way it is. Puddin was right, about a gallon and it would start to free up. I am at 3/4 of a gallon but noticed the fuel,and the tune went off. Thought line? But went back and saw where leak was which isn't very common for a go engine. I had only 1 other with the leaking front bearing. So I thought I would get a bearing out of my collection,I'm out. I ordered some avids no big deal. I may drive to Chico and get one from amain to get me through the week end to finish off the break in. As far as Puddin's recommendation when you think about it it's a good one. For 35.00 you get it sealed and broke in,not bad.
Now I am not here to start anything or say anything bad about Trey or GO-ENGINE. I already listed where I feel I made my mistakes buy not doing my routine. And that includes putting it under water to check for leaks. STUFF HAPPENS!! It's life. I'm sure if Trey who by the way has been more then help full and Puddin what can I say a guy driving for Losi/GO takes time to answer a question from someone he's never met shows just how much of a class act he is. If they felt there was a problem with my particular engine it would get taken care of.
As far as the engine goes, for the price it will be the one to have. PERIOD!

i think i told you the same thing a page or 2 back! is this the first engine you have broke in?

bigmatt 04-19-2011 08:29 PM


Originally Posted by inferno13 (Post 8989888)
i think i told you the same thing a page or 2 back! is this the first engine you have broke in?

I must have missed it.No this is not the first engine I have broke in. Inferno I found it put it together and run it. Thats what I was doing till front bearing problem.

inferno13 04-19-2011 08:37 PM


Originally Posted by inferno13 (Post 8973262)
i would just keep pluggin away at it, it will loose'in up, it will take atleast 5 to 6 takes before you notice a differnce in pinch.


Originally Posted by inferno13 (Post 8974606)
you mean you took it apart..........again? leave that sucker together and run that bad boy!! sounds like you need a better starter box....LOL, ill bet my box will spin that sucker faster than 30,000rpms without heating it:lol::lol::lol:


Originally Posted by inferno13 (Post 8974685)
i did have a GX5R with crazy tight pinch, i found that running it a little cooler helped get rid of the tight pinch a little faster, running it at 240 plus every time will take forever, the sleeve expands with heat, if you run it at high temps it will never loose that pinch. that process worked for me and have no play in rod after 15 tanks. keep goin bud!!!;)

same thing but differnt....LOL

bigmatt 04-19-2011 08:59 PM

actually running it cooler as you suggested at around 220 instead of 250-270 before I shut it down today was loosing pinch/turning over easier/running super smooth. It just wanted to go to the 250ish range but by leaving flush would drop down to 220's while running. Then this afternoon everything was going good then out of the blue went to crap like another air leak. You know how they want to rev up as they get hot? Go lean thats what happened. But you were right the more I ran it the better it got.

grizz1 04-19-2011 09:48 PM


Originally Posted by bigmatt (Post 8990051)
actually running it cooler as you suggested at around 220 instead of 250-270 before I shut it down today was loosing pinch/turning over easier/running super smooth. It just wanted to go to the 250ish range but by leaving flush would drop down to 220's while running. Then this afternoon everything was going good then out of the blue went to crap like another air leak. You know how they want to rev up as they get hot? Go lean thats what happened. But you were right the more I ran it the better it got.

Just be careful with the "cooler" run in guys. It may reduce the pinch a little quicker, but it will be harder on the motor. You may not see any play in the rod, but if you were to take the piston out, you may find some play in the wrist pin, due to the pin getting a hard time or the wrist pin area in the piston getting worn prematurely. This is a common sight in motors that have been run in too hard, or not hot enough. I'm not saying that's what anyone here is doing, but just be aware of the risks of not running it in hot enough.
There is no short cut - all good things take time, and some things you just can't rush. Each motor will be just a little different, so take each one on it's own merits and just "feel" it in :tire:
I have been told in the past I take too much time running my motors in - put too much fuel through them and fuss too much - but they all run hard as, with sweet compression well into their racing lives, with no mechanical defects, so who's to say ?
That's just how I like to do it, and it works for me so I keep doing it :)

Flanno 04-19-2011 11:05 PM


Originally Posted by bigmatt (Post 8990051)
actually running it cooler as you suggested at around 220 instead of 250-270 before I shut it down today was loosing pinch/turning over easier/running super smooth. It just wanted to go to the 250ish range but by leaving flush would drop down to 220's while running. Then this afternoon everything was going good then out of the blue went to crap like another air leak. You know how they want to rev up as they get hot? Go lean thats what happened. But you were right the more I ran it the better it got.

it shouldn't rev up when hot and not when cooler, sounds like a average woman thing, ;) an air leak will just make it not hold a tune and idle irratic.so you may have created a average woman bottom from trying to compensate for the air leak....you'v already stated that you have found that the front bearing does have a leak, once that is rectified just double check your bottom end tune again.:nod:.........as for shutting down, Don't stop an engine by blocking the pipe (except in an emergency/runaway) also stopping by the flywheel is also not good, (except in an emergency/runaway)

I at the end of a race bring Truggy in to pits, my pitman sits Truggy on starter box still running, to let the engine climatise while I walk down the drivers stand stairs, then I stop my engine by pinching the fuel line and starving it of fuel, check it is at BDC then turn off truggy and radio.

808gx7r 04-20-2011 02:08 AM


Originally Posted by Flanno (Post 8990469)
it shouldn't rev up when hot and not when cooler, sounds like a average woman thing, ;) an air leak will just make it not hold a tune and idle irratic.so you may have created a average woman bottom from trying to compensate for the air leak....you'v already stated that you have found that the front bearing does have a leak, once that is rectified just double check your bottom end tune again.:nod:.........as for shutting down, Don't stop an engine by blocking the pipe (except in an emergency/runaway) also stopping by the flywheel is also not good, (except in an emergency/runaway)

I at the end of a race bring Truggy in to pits, my pitman sits Truggy on starter box still running, to let the engine climatise while I walk down the drivers stand stairs, then I stop my engine by pinching the fuel line and starving it of fuel, check it is at BDC then turn off truggy and radio.

im sorry but i have to disagree with the "stopping via flywheel thing"
its safer then stoping via pinching the line(runs lean, can pop your plug if your on boarder line tune.) and plugged exhaust is a no no as you said.

for the meterials these engines are made from there should be no issues, a runaway there is no "safest" way to stop it. at high rpm touching that flywheel will rip through a shoe.

Kolunatic 04-20-2011 03:22 AM

I'm running the 3 port in my dingo with stock flywheel.you can't reach the flywheel until I replace it with bigger " brand specific" flywheel and clutch, so I use exhaust. Should I pinch off fuel at inlet and risk blowing a 10$ turbo plug? When I get the new 5 port I plan on getting new bigger flywheel and clutch with pipe etc. How should I kill the new engine?

bigmatt 04-20-2011 03:52 AM

Flanno,thats what I meant when I said it [the idle] went erratic. Didn't matter what temp the engine was it just went to crap again. And I believe it's from a leaking front bearing. The engine will not hold a tune at all. As far as it keeping it at 220 I should have said 220ish. Which means 220-250,not 250-290 where it was when I shut it down. They other thing I noticed was when I would fill it full of fuel the idle wanted to come down so something is amiss. I have never had a engine do that[fill with fuel idle down] the only thing I found was the air leak in the front bearing. And what I find puzzling is how some people say leaking front bearing is okay,I've had 1-2 that dribbled a little fuel at first but none of them let air by. All my needles were set back to stock. The idle needle was moved back to it's original position.
I don't adjust my engines to a specific temp but was taking the readings more as a reference mark.


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