Originally Posted by bigmatt (Post 8975467)

just an update,got tank 7 through seems like it all fell in place. running rich but was able to tune a little so it sounds smooth. I will say that we really don't need to make a big change from flush on the lsn/hsn. I am 1/4 turn in on the hsn and maybe 3/4 on lsn set idle/ perfect. The old ways of adjusting our go-tecs is out the window. so below is a list of mistakes I made in order.
1-I opened the package and immediately felt dizzy causing me to babel!
2-I disassembled the engine to flush out any metal debris[not necessary]
3-reassembled engine without sealing like I do on every engine.
4-thought I had engine heated enough to start. did not
5-when piston locked in place took screw driver to force flywheel to get piston back down. While talking to my son realized I had turned fly wheel 360 on crank.
6-disassembled whole engine thinking c-clip had fell out. what really happened was I needed to heat engine more plain and simple.
7-needles do not need to be moved that far from flush. on all my go-tecs and mg-66 the needle settings are exact for all engines.hsn1/2 turn in/lsn 1-1/2 turns in give or take a few hours. Like I have stated before when I go to the races I usually go alone so all my engines MUST idle for long periods,no-one wants to try to adjust your equipment.
so I hope this helps all the people who get the new engine and think they have a problem you don't it's most likely the nut behind the wheel!!:lol:
But if you go back to our old engines every thing that I thought and tried would have been true,not so with new engine.

Originally Posted by Kolunatic (Post 8975177)

Hey Trey, can you help and tell me starting point of idle on 3 port. I was chasing tune all day and went back to factory settings. Will. Get to track early to dial it in hopefully, long day today.

Originally Posted by inferno13 (Post 8975230)

you might need a carb rebuild kit (o-rings) the older GO ENGINES had crappy seals in the carb, you need the updated ones. i had problem with mine as well, untill i got some new ones from trey. then all was good again:nod:

Originally Posted by Kolunatic (Post 8979253)

thanks for the help guys. i found some orings in my set and sealed carb and backplate and i took second place today with that 3 port!:nod::D

thanks trey for stocking the shop with the new 5 port,cant wait to get my hands on it:sneaky:

Originally Posted by inferno13 (Post 8979268)

congrats on the second place finish!!!!;)

Originally Posted by Mototech (Post 8980624)

Hey guys. Just got a new GX-5R from Nitro North. What is the proper break-in for this motor? I've been reading up on heat cycling and this seems like the "new school" way of break-in. The instructions provided with the motor say to idle the first two tanks etc. Coming from a motorcycle back ground, we always heat cycled new race motors on the dyno before races. This is my second nitro motor, the first being a Traxxas 3.3 (don't flame me it got me back into RC). They recommend heat cycling. What's the best way to get the best performance out of this motor? Sorry if this has been covered before but I searched and had no luck. Thanks for any and all help.

Originally Posted by Mototech (Post 8980749)

Thanks inferno that's exactly what I was looking for. I have a copper washer that came in the kit. Is that a break-in spacer for the head? Should I use it? I saw some mention of a spacer when browsing this thread. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Mototech (Post 8980624)

Hey guys. Just got a new GX-5R from Nitro North. What is the proper break-in for this motor? I've been reading up on heat cycling and this seems like the "new school" way of break-in. The instructions provided with the motor say to idle the first two tanks etc. Coming from a motorcycle back ground, we always heat cycled new race motors on the dyno before races. This is my second nitro motor, the first being a Traxxas 3.3 (don't flame me it got me back into RC). They recommend heat cycling. What's the best way to get the best performance out of this motor? Sorry if this has been covered before but I searched and had no luck. Thanks for any and all help.

Originally Posted by Mototech (Post 8980749)

Thanks inferno that's exactly what I was looking for. I have a copper washer that came in the kit. Is that a break-in spacer for the head? Should I use it? I saw some mention of a spacer when browsing this thread. Thanks.