someone doesent like a tight H.O....:lol::lol:

I agree with Rage. If it´s THAT tight, then the tolerances are out of wack somewhere. I was only joking about the Monday motor Matt, but maybe it is the 1 in 500 or more that sometimes just doesn't come out right - who knows.
I could understand it being real tight on the very first tank, but after one or two these new motors free up pretty quickly from what I have experianced. A couple of customers here have mentioned they were pretty tight initially, but after the 3rd tank were purring nicely. My one gave me no trouble at all, but that is probably just the luck of the draw - although I do heat them pretty good, and the old but reliable twin motor Q World starter box is pretty stong.
I also fitted a .2mm shim for the first 6 tanks, as per the GX models although the shim is no longer included in the box. Maybe that was the difference ??
I am sure Trey will sort it :)

I'm not sure what to say. It has spun the collet on the crank shaft from trying to start. I think I'll try it again 2marrow. Sistrunk said 1 gallon before it was right. This is the reason I brought this up,I understood that after 3-6 tank mark the engine would be free enough to spin right over. yes it would still be a tad tight but where I could take and start with out a heat gun. Like my mg-66 after 12-15 tanks I could do that,actually except for 1 go I own they have all been like that. Then after about 1.5-2 gallons the nut dropped and it ripped. I have always used a heat gun to prewarm my engines,not make a hot-pocket:lol: I know it needs to be tuned but it won't let me. I think because it is still to tight. So I will wait to here from trey to see if in fact there is a problem.

Hey Trey, can you help and tell me starting point of idle on 3 port. I was chasing tune all day and went back to factory settings. Will. Get to track early to dial it in hopefully, long day today.

.07mm or .7mm, can never figure that out...LOL

Hey Trey, can you help and tell me starting point of idle on 3 port. I was chasing tune all day and went back to factory settings. Will. Get to track early to dial it in hopefully, long day today.

???????:confused:, dont beleive me:)

Thanks, and sorry for double post. Shouldve got an android. Hope I'm not having the problems that made "go" come out with gx2 series. Carb has been good thru a few gallons since break in and today was a waste. Good thing the race is tomorrow but it's the only engine I have.

you might need a carb rebuild kit (o-rings) the older GO ENGINES had crappy seals in the carb, you need the updated ones. i had problem with mine as well, untill i got some new ones from trey. then all was good again:nod:

.7 mm gap like inferno said. Flush on the high speed and a turn in from flush on the low speed.

Make sure you set the gap with the restrictor out then once it set put it back in and start tuning.

It can be hard to get it just right setting the idle gap manually. Use the ¨cold motor¨ pinch to set the idle, as described on here a few pages back (half way down page 68).
Pinch the fuel line off about 1 cm back from the fuel nipple. If the motor chirps up to quite high revs, the idle gap is too big. Lower the idle so the motor only slightly raises in revs after a second or so when you pinch the fuel line off. This will get the gap spot on for the particular motor you are tuning. It quick, easy and accurate. Then tune as per the instructions on the same post. :cool:

Agreed. Your method has really helped my tuning. I got the long lsn tuning down to a 1 min task on the start of the day. But I found after manually setting it gets one alot closer to the right setting from using your method. Expecialy after a day were one chases needles around and if definitely if the idle screw has been moved.

I think i will put this in my sig, very...very....helpful!!!! http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tech-Tips.html

just an update,got tank 7 through seems like it all fell in place. running rich but was able to tune a little so it sounds smooth. I will say that we really don't need to make a big change from flush on the lsn/hsn. I am 1/4 turn in on the hsn and maybe 3/4 on lsn set idle/ perfect. The old ways of adjusting our go-tecs is out the window. so below is a list of mistakes I made in order.
1-I opened the package and immediately felt dizzy causing me to babel!
2-I disassembled the engine to flush out any metal debris[not necessary]
3-reassembled engine without sealing like I do on every engine.
4-thought I had engine heated enough to start. did not
5-when piston locked in place took screw driver to force flywheel to get piston back down. While talking to my son realized I had turned fly wheel 360 on crank.
6-disassembled whole engine thinking c-clip had fell out. what really happened was I needed to heat engine more plain and simple.
7-needles do not need to be moved that far from flush. on all my go-tecs and mg-66 the needle settings are exact for all engines.hsn1/2 turn in/lsn 1-1/2 turns in give or take a few hours. Like I have stated before when I go to the races I usually go alone so all my engines MUST idle for long periods,no-one wants to try to adjust your equipment.
so I hope this helps all the people who get the new engine and think they have a problem you don't it's most likely the nut behind the wheel!!:lol:
But if you go back to our old engines every thing that I thought and tried would have been true,not so with new engine.

I copied it and printed it out. It's in my tool box lamenated.