One thing guys mistake when having an overly rich bottom end is they say it still has alot of smoke at top. What I found it that extra top end smoke is from having a build up of fuel while in low rpm then when it gets to the upper the motor pukes out the extra fuel/smoke and starts to run lean.

ok thanks, will fix that in the morning!! thanks guys!

+1

there, this look better...;) pic not real good, sorry
http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...ustment002.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/...ustment003.jpg

please explain?

Yep that looks better, but you won't know until you run it at normal temps.

+1 on what the boys have said. You would have had good smoke because you were way rich on the bottom (but correspondingly way lean on top - at full revs when the LSN eventually nearly clears the receiver jet).
I would bet a new GXII motor that your idle gap is too wide as well. That´s the only way you would be able to get the motor to idle with the bottom end that rich, otherwise it would just load up and die.
First thing - adjust the idle gap with the pinch test. You have to get that right first or you will chase your tail all day.
Once you have the idle gap set, then adjust for a 7 second pinch test on the LSN setting. Now do some full speed runs and tweak the HSN for nice clean running with good smoke and good power at wot. Go back and tweak the LSN again using the clean take off after a few seconds at rest method if you had to do any significant adjusting on the HSN in the previous step.
That should see you pretty close to spot on. If you get any lean bog below half a tank, richen the HSN an hour at a time until the lean bog goes and re-adjust LSN to compensate.
Ball park settings for a good tune (allowing for differing fuels and climates etc) are -

HSN flush or 2 - 3 ¨HOURS¨ in from flush
LSN 1.25 to 1.5 ¨TURNS¨ in from flush
Idle gap set with pinch test - normally ends up around .7 of a mm, but best to set with pinch test and not manually, as each motor has it´s own characteristics.
The pinch test will work accuratly all the time - BUT REMEMBER It´s got to be done when the motor is cold or only slightly warm. Once the crankcase heats up and starts vapourising the fuel better, the pinch test for idle gap and 7 second bottom end tune goes out the window.

Man, with that .2mm shim removed and a sweet tune layed on it, that GX5R is going to scare the pants off you :)

did you take it out and run it already ?

you owe me a new gxII, i havent touched the idle, it is at what it comes out of box, i can PM you my mailing addy....LOL...jk, but i havent touched the idle at all. it idles but loads up after about 15-20 seconds without stalling

It took me a while to get my head around the tuning method Grizz has posted. But once you do it is very easy. Actually if your engine doesn't do what he has written you have an air leak/other problem. Don't make the mistake well I might have the idle set from the get go to high or low. It's not the engine it's YOU!!!!The other thing is WE ALL NEED TO REMEMBER!!! Once the nuts drop and you take out the .02mm break in shim you must start over with the tune. You won't be far from where your needles are now but you must retune.

lsn still to rich. Go from flush turn in 1 full turn/then 2 hours you should be close.
I have to go to the races by myself. So I need to find some one who will pit for me. ALL and I mean ALL of my engines will sit and idle all day long. I learned the hard way no one wants to try and fix your gear.

Right on Matt. I always try and help customers and others with tuning etc when I can, but sometimes you just can´t fit it all in without it being detrimental to your own racing.

Hmm, I holding off on the GXII inferno. I wasn't meaning you had adjusted the idle yourself, but looking at the low speed needle in the pics, there is no way that puppy would sit there idling with the LSN screwed out like that without the idle gap being a little too wide. Maybe it came from the factory like that ? Every motor I have ever run-in needed the idle gap cranked up some for the first few tanks to keep them running - which is cool when you are running rich during the run-in period, but when it comes time for race tune, that idle gap needs to be knocked right back. With the longer needle carbs (or standard needle carbs for that matter), the relationship between the idle gap and the low speed needle setting is critical and must always be balanced out when making adjustments to either.
I am sure when you do the pinch test you will find it chirps up to pretty high revs, requiring a tweak or two on the idle screw to set things right.

after a high speeed run, pull in and stop, the idle should sit with NO change when you stop, if the idle starts to drop any time after you stop then it is still too fat on the bottom.

We aren't having a go at you so please don't take offence, we are only trying to help :nod:

+1 :cool:

+1 Just trying to help out a fellow racer :). No way your getting that GXII anyway bro :ha: - I don't have enough left to be giving them away :lol:

Hey Flanno mate - what´s happening with the GXII´s in your neck of the woods. You sorted yet ??