works for me in my overweight geriatric hobao thats a kg heavier than the rest, & they still can't catch it in a straight line :sneaky:

I have never run the MG in a truggy, but all the guys I know that have just love it. Eh Magpie :nod:
You should grab yourself a 7 Port, you would love it in the buggy. It's like a 3 Port on steroids that just keeps on winding out and out and out :D. Or maybe go the whole hog and drop the MG66 in the buggy :tire:

Judge for yourself :)


http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_1912.jpg

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_1892.jpg

http://i369.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/IMG_1737.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BucFOIkwSsc

Plenty of power and no fuel stop ;)

Like has been stated,Good. I have one of mine going to racer 22 aka rex welch. say's he can mod it to get more bottom out of it. which I feel is lacking.The mid and top are screaming!!!!!!!!!!!! You will in no way be dissapointed with an MG-66!! This is the first gx series engine I am running gx-3 port. And like you say they last for a very long time[if properly cared for]

Concerning your MG66. You are the first that I've heard saying the MG66 had a somewhat weak bottom end. But running my own MG66 in a truggy, I would tend to agree with you. I don't have a race tune on mine because it is not fully broken in, so I hope it wakes up soon.

I find that you need to keep it on the pipe so to speak. clutch setup is very important for this engine. when mine gets to mid it starts screaming and keeps going. If you can keep it at a certain pace it is fantastic. So I run a stiffer clutch spring for short run up jumps.

+1

clutch is more important in a truggy than a buggy for the MG
ie; weight, & the bigger gearing and wheels than a buggy.

MBX6T I run 13/48 gearing as apposed to stock 13/46 too.

try this with the MG in truggy & run a softer clutch, you will loose a bit of run time but hey if you what bottom end : http://www.massivemods.com.au/produc...roducts_id=314 :cool:

You mean the sold out MassiveModified Turbo Head Button? :blush:
I'm running a 4 shoe clutch with 1.0 springs. Don't think I want to soften the clutch. Maybe I'm being unfair comparing it to my old JPX.21 The Jammin was an animal, but it did have drawbacks. We'll see how it goes with a bit more fuel through it.

the mg is an ass kicker,your running my clutch set up,only I use the 3 shoe. Just keep breaking it in, loose the break in shim and hold on!!

Yep, you can't really compare anything until the motor is fully broken in. Especially if you still have the break in shim fitted. Loose that after 12 - 15 tanks.
When the majority of the pinch is gone, and you can turn the motor over by hand (in the buggy, by the flywheel from underneath when it is hot) straight after a run - remove one of the .1mm copper head shims (so you will be running .4mm of shims total). This will help to sharpen the bottom end a little, and give a tad more run time. It's cool to run up to 30% nitro like this. Run a medium plug (O'Donnell 97T or equivalent). The rest is up to clutch and gearing, but whatever happens it won't be slow that's for sure :D

MM does them to order from standard turbo head buttons :D
i didn't realize you are still breaking in the motor, just follow what grizz said above & hang on :cool:

just dropped off my GX5R case to Lance @ RcRenew.com to put in TKO ceramics, front and rear:sneaky: ....cant wait to get her back:D....he was getting ready to take the lil ones out for a day of fun, so he said he will get it done tonight for me....or else he would have done it on the spot!:nod:.....great guy and great service guys....you should check him out;)

+1:nod:

I can vouch for Rex's work. I've got a GX-5R mill that he did for me last year in my MBX6-T. The thing is just plain wicked. He did some porting and crank work on it, and I added ceramics and changed to the long LSN.