1st, It's never been a problem, as I said above, "I let the engine climatise first", I use good plugs and my tune never has to be that fine to still get good power and run time.
+ I'd rather leave oil residue in my crank and no nitro to atract moisture between rounds and I also like having a crank pin and con rod that lasts.

2nd, I hate seeing people trying to shut down an engine runaway by the flywheel with they'r heel etc...I seen one one day finaly catch the car, then fumbled around for what seemed like a decade trying to do it with his foot on the flywheel...it eventualy popped as it had no load on it at high RPM for so long, bye bye engine.
I'd much rather see em force the car to the ground with a good grip, immediately, so the clutch slows the RPM and also block the exhaust stinger with the toe of their shoe.....I'd rather loose a clutch and possible a front bearing seal than a whole engine.

3rd, I think your lost, the Alpha thread is 5 threads down.

It's all good Matt, I was just going by what ya posted, sort of had an idea what you were trying to say tho.
Yep, I have never had anything more than some/minimal moisture on the under side up front, I was just saying that once you change the bearings to go back to basics and start tuning from scratch again.
As for the idle drop after filling the tank you havent got a pin hole in your tank or a bad lid seal ???
When tank is low the engine seems lean and when it's full the engine goes rich again ???

Just a couple of idea's outside of the box that people overlook and chase an engine tune when it is another problem outside the engine...as I said, just something else to think about also..+..head bolts tightened and rechecked after its first few runs ???

Sorry, just throwing idea's out there as they come to mind.

I agree with number 2. If my truck runs away I want the marshal to grab it and push it down very hard and rip the fuel lines off. Who cares about the dead clutch and mess one gets from it. I know my motor is safe.

As for number 3, I don't like. I feel we should welcome all engine users in this thread to promote these engines. Notice he has GX7R in his name, maybe he had a 7R at one time. But I don't condone other engine guys who don't have GO come in and give tips on tuning and trouble shooting. When it comes to engine shut down sure come in and give your two cents.

For the record before I get told to the Argus thread I still have a few Go mills and all my friends run Go.

Sharp eye there, Rob.


He's not lost...............808gx7r (see the GX7R in the username?) would imply to me that he's a "former" family member. Even if he stays with Alpha, he spent time with GO. (although I think we should egg his car) LOL..............JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!

Keep throwing,that;s exactly what it's doing. I rechecked head bolts. replaced all lines and exhaust seals. I am off to get the new front bearing then start retune. I will take tank out and do an air leak check.

Dudes I have a few questions:
- I did my break in with my GX7R, done 8 tanks on cycle at 210-230
- After 8 tanks, cleaned the engine and cycled for 2 tanks at 230
- After 2 tanks, I checked the plug and saw the plug busted (filament/coil cut in middle)
- Changed the plug and run the engine on track this time 2 tanks at max 3/4 throttle at 3-4 seconds.

My concern is when I did the same break in with my GX5R, the filament cut, that time the portion of the filament cut went into the chamber and damaged the piston and sleeve.

Since this is the second time happened during break in (bust the plugs), I am thinking the the plug must be pretty much close to the piston (using stock 2 shims) during combustion process. Does anybody had the same problem as mine? If I add 1 shim, does this solve the problem?

Appreciate any help could be given.

asaraneta: What plug are you using? I have never had that problem. What did you mean bye clean the engine? take apart and clean or clean the outside?

Matt- thanks for the kind words.

yes I did notice, wich is why I put #3 I just forgot the at the end, I was just being cheeky.......god people take things way too seriously.

I knew you were kidding.
...the rest of my comment was aimed at anyone not familiar with him.

I was wondering what was up, normally your a cheery fellow on here. Figured maybe you had a bad day or ssomething. such a releif to here you were joking.

Hi Kolunatic, you have a lot more chance of blowing plugs by blocking off the exhaust stinger. That is probably the worst way to stop a motor time after time. If you can't reach the flywheel, then let the motor sit for a few seconds and settle, then pinch the fuel line off firmly. With the engine at idle it won't run leanish for more than a second, and if you pinch the fuel line off hard enough will most likely just die straight away. Like Flanno mentioned above, it also removes a lot of the fuel etc from the crankcase, so if your finished for the day and are not going to after-run (naughty but it happens), then pinching off the line can go some way to limiting moisture in the crankcase.

As far as running the motor lean, I can't see this method of stopping your motor (at idle) really being a concern. Guys run out of fuel in heats or finals all the time, and the motor is doing full revs when it happens, and life goes on.
I think the key thing here is "at idle". It's no different to when you are running your motor dry at the end of the day with the glow starter attached until all the fuel is burned away. At idle or at starter box revolutions there will always be enough oil residue on the piston and sleeve to protect the motor at these very low speeds.


Popping plugs buring break in is not uncommon. They don't like being continually exposed to an over rich mixture. I often find they will survive the first 8 or so tanks rich, but then when you start to lean the motor out towards the end of the run-in cylcle the plug will perish. I think it's to do with the coil getting glugged up with oil from the rich mixture. Then when you lean things out and the temps increase, the oil burns off the coil, but oil burns a lot hotter than methanol/nitro mix, and the excessive heat of the oil residue burning off around the coil destroys it.
Best idea is to change the plug for a new one when you start to lean things out.

Cheers Grizz for helping to further explain and reinforce my previous points.

People can learn from our personal experiances and take our advise, or they can ignore it, it is after all, us only TRYING to help with "advise" it is then all up to them, I personaly just want to see fellow users enjoy their engines for longer than the people that are still stuck in the past etc etc and keep making the same old mistakes.


I just wish to apolagise in advance if anything I post upsets anybody, I know what I'm trying to say but sometimes the written word just doesn't come across as intended, those that know me will understand my posts are filled with love

I have learned a lot from you guys so post away and thanks.

if the idle drops once fuel tank is filled, you are too lean on top and maybe a tad lean on bottom....i just went through this tonight at the track..fattened both needles by a couple hours and it ran flawlessly all night....when the tank is low..it takes alot of pressure to pump fuel into the motor...so thats why it is idling eratic...maybe even turn the idle down, just a tad...trust us...the leaky bearing is not causing this problem

for those wondering, i do still run 2 go engines. gx7r and 5r...
and alpha vs go engine, what REALLY is the differnce, besides a few changes rod and all are the same,(not porting etc.) but like same material, along with like argus etc... instead there should be a "Taiwan engine thread"