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Old 03-21-2011 | 02:52 AM
  #811  
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Just when you thought the prototype crank (existing team driver motors) was sexy - take a look at the production model being pumped out for the first batch of motors due out in a few days
Now that is a sexy thing
Attached Thumbnails Go Engine USA 2011 Thread-new-crank.jpg   Go Engine USA 2011 Thread-new-crank.jpg  
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Old 03-21-2011 | 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Just when you thought the prototype crank (existing team driver motors) was sexy - take a look at the production model being pumped out for the first batch of motors due out in a few days
Now that is a sexy thing
looks great, just ordered II engine today and 2072 pipe, cant wait
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Old 03-21-2011 | 04:26 AM
  #813  
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Just when you thought the prototype crank (existing team driver motors) was sexy - take a look at the production model being pumped out for the first batch of motors due out in a few days
Now that is a sexy thing
hells yes! looks like we changed back to epoxy too. The earliest versions had a white epoxy, then they switched it to a clear RTV silicon, now we're back to epoxy. Just shows what constant testing and validation does!

Really liking the new setup. For those of you that are curious, or have run the last of the prototypes, the crank is the same shape. The only changes between the last prototypes is the coating and the epoxy.

REALLY excited... it's almost time!
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Old 03-21-2011 | 06:56 AM
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Old 03-21-2011 | 07:35 AM
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Right on!!!!!!!!!!!! can hardly wait!!!
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Old 03-21-2011 | 08:27 AM
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I just ordered dual ceramics for one of my gx's arendt running dual?
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Old 03-21-2011 | 09:03 AM
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That clear coating looks kinda black? J/K the crank looks good.
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Old 03-21-2011 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Tha Skinny
I just ordered dual ceramics for one of my gx's arendt running dual?
Yep, I run both front and rear ceramics in my good race motor.
The front ceramics take a bit of shock loading fron the starter box wheels and can have a shorter life than the stock steel ones, but they are not expensive and I reckon the extra cost of more regular replacement of the front bearing is worth the performance gain you get from running ceramics in both front and rear.
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Old 03-21-2011 | 03:04 PM
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can you drop a 7 port piston and sleeve into a 3 port case? thanks
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Old 03-21-2011 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tanggenyo
can you drop a 7 port piston and sleeve into a 3 port case? thanks
yes
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Old 03-21-2011 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Yes I think so. The new GXII has plenty of bottom, and it seems to suit a mid to top end pipe quit nicely. The 2013 I am running is sort of an all round pipe that gives good mid / top and some bottom too, so it is a nice fit. I reckon the 053 is pretty similar (I have run the Dynamite 053 on the MG66 quite a bit), so it should work fine.
Thank You Sir, saves me a little dough at the get go.
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Old 03-21-2011 | 08:54 PM
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sorry i forgot about the second part of my inquiry. Can you drop a 7port P/S in a 3port case? Would it improve the performance any? thanks again
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Old 03-21-2011 | 09:26 PM
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Originally Posted by tanggenyo
sorry i forgot about the second part of my inquiry. Can you drop a 7port P/S in a 3port case? Would it improve the performance any? thanks again
The case is the same on the 3 port race and the 7 port. The 3 port sport is a similar case but no milling inside for extra air flow. It will still work if it is a sport case but may lose a little performance.

Rex
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Old 03-21-2011 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by grizz1
Yep, I run both front and rear ceramics in my good race motor.
The front ceramics take a bit of shock loading fron the starter box wheels and can have a shorter life than the stock steel ones, but they are not expensive and I reckon the extra cost of more regular replacement of the front bearing is worth the performance gain you get from running ceramics in both front and rear.
How often are you replacing them? Are the ceramics giving more top end or just better all around performance?
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Old 03-22-2011 | 01:27 AM
  #825  
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Originally Posted by Tha Skinny
How often are you replacing them? Are the ceramics giving more top end or just better all around performance?
Hmm - couldn't really give you any definite time frame. It depends on how much racing I do. I tend to change my bearings every 3 gallons of track time (or sooner if they feel notchy of course), but 3 gallons of actual racing is a lot of tanks.
To be honest, I haven't really noticed that much difference in wear personally. That starter box shock loading is something I have been told about, but I think that would also depend on how you have your starter box set up to the flywheel.
I have had a set of Answer ceramics in my MG for ages now, no problems at all.
They give a quicker spool up, and a little more performance all round. Slightly better fuel economy too, due to the lowered rolling resistance of the bearing.
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