If you have a way to keep it warm, I would start running some fuel through it on the starter box.

I ran the V2 last year before she ate some dirt and i retired her. I had so much trouble with the carb on the V2 that I swore I would never get another one.

Question I am going to ask is the carb on the V4 the same as the V2. I am not knocking the motor at all. Once I put a WERKS carb on the arrow it flat out screamed. I would get another one if the carb was updated.

Not worried about keeping the motor warm while break in...just keeping me warm while doing so is the problem :D

It is the same carb but we figured out how to set the needles. The mid range must be 2 turns out from flush at 2 oclock.
Low speed 1-2 turns in from flush
top end 1.5-2 turns out.

We now set all the carbs to this base setting before shipping the engines and have never had a complaint since. From the factory, they came with the mid range set to flush, which caused hard tuning, unstable idle, and random flame outs. My GTR V3 has never flamed out since I set the needles this way.

I am 99% sure that the mid range needle was causing everyones problems on the V1 and V2 engines, including mine. :nod:

+1 >>> 100% agree

The engine is superb. Just many didn't how how to tune it, and said the carb is leaking or etc.

Anyone who came from V-spec or any OS engine knows how to utilise the MSN ( Mid speed needle ) I didn't have a problem at all as my favourite engine is OS engine.

Im breaking in the newest purple head now. Nothing like 60 degree weather in the middle of Illinois. This is January right...lol
Weve played with the mid needle and we also found out it needs to be two out. One was close and the more we went out the snappier it got with a smooth pull.
I also replace the stock bearings with ceramic one. I figure the freer the bearings the better it will perform.
Plan on running this engine at crcrc next week.

Just remember to put a drop of thread loc on all the needles so they don't turn during vibration.

Will do. That was the issue we had with the first edition. Needles way to easy to turn. This one and the second edition seem to be a lot tighter. Of they feel to loose I will be doing that.
One quart down 3 more to go....lol

I just got a brand new v3 arrow gtr and was wondering how many shims are suppose to be installed for break in and after break in? And when to remove. Because the guy had the shims installed already so not sure which ones are break in shims. There's two gold and one silver

Also which carb reducer do I run? The .8 or .9?

I didnt add shims to mine, Id have to open it up and see whats under mine. I think just one silver one. I have the 6.5 reducer in mine, came with the 7 in it and I went to the 6.5. Off to a ball game so if no one responds on the shims I will in a few hours.

We're in Australia can the arrow motors be purchased ??
Thanks

It should have one .2mm and one .1mm. One silver and one brass.

Rex

So is the extra brass one the break in shim? He said it was installed already. Also when do I take it out?

I took mine out after 1.5 gallon