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Old 07-07-2013 | 04:37 AM
  #7591  
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Originally Posted by george919
Would a rb v12 clocked or a clocked nova BTT be good in a buggy? I would like it to have great mileage and nice smooth power delivery. I currently have a used OS xzb speed but it flames out and doesn't have super nice mileage.
both are awesome........ the Clocked BTT has huge balls and a very pronounced kick on the bottom end... The Blast is smoother with a stronger top end runout........... But are amazing...

the Blast is super smooth and super powerful.......doesn't feel or sound overly fast, yet on the track seems to pull almost everything down the straight.......As well it is the very first engine to give Bill Mason a true 10 minutes in Buggy...so the fuel mileage of this engine is thru the roof....
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Old 07-07-2013 | 04:51 AM
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Originally Posted by lappdawg27
Are there any glow plug recommendations for the Blast? I have a stash of Nova C6's and a couple Werks #6's, or should I get a couple of the RB ones it comes with (V3 #5s)?
I would run a Nova C6.....
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Old 07-07-2013 | 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Retired09
Hi Mayor. How is it going? Still racing in Kansas City? Are you going to Dirt Burners for Futaba/OS Challenge?

I did the same as you. Bought a whole pile of O'Donnell plugs when they went on sale. Just can't have Neal (Clockwork Racing Guru) see them. I've been racing with Clockwork guys for last 2 weeks at their track up in Canada. Kept them hidden in the motorhome. He would probably take them off me and replace them with Nova's. Maybe I should let him see them! LOL!!!!
Originally Posted by RCmayor
Hey Bill, since Steve's track is shut down at the moment.



We are all racing up at Fastlane. Chuck has built a pretty nice outdoor track there where the onroad track used to be.

Maybe on the St. Louis race. Not sure yet.

I don't care if this Neal guy likes OD plugs or not. lol. They work and that is all I care about.

At the end of the day use whatever works for you ... Myself I will stay clear of OD plugs, over the years I have seen far too many engines destroyed by those plugs dropping their coils... they are too fragile for me to recommend them to anyone....If a person really needs a hotter plug then a Nova C6 then I recommend a OS P4 instead....
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Old 07-07-2013 | 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by dia
Neal, can you please describe the peculiarities of a long needle carb. A P5 and 4btt-wc are both long needle ones, right? Thank you.
sorry for the delay...I have sat down multiple times to type this out and have been pulled away each time.... There are actually quite a few differences between these carbs and how they function....I Am not sure I can cover all the details, but I can do my best to try.... If there is any part anyone needs explained further feel free to ask..

1. Short needle are easier to tune......

2. Short needles become less sensitive to needle movements as they get into their sweet spot...

3. Short needle have less overall control then a long needle...I find I can get a more precise tune with a long needle.....A short needle will tune in easily to a base setting, but often will not respond to further micro needle movements... They seem to have 1 general position they will run well with and further tinkering with the needles almost has no effect....

4. You adjust your idle mixture using the LSN on a short needle carb with no worry of messing up the overall tune.............. The opposite is true with a long needle carb...you generally do not want to adjust idle mixture using the LSN....as any movements of the LSN affect the fuel delivery over the entire throttle pull.......... so instead I try to use the idle screw to adjust the mixture.... If the idle is high and pingy I will close the idle gap, if the idle is rich and low I will open the idle gap.... But I will not touch my LSN to fix a idle mixture issue if the rest of the throttle range is in tune...............

5. Long needle become more and more sensitive as they get closer to their sweet spot.....Once a engine is in its sweet spot it will react to almost the smallest of needle movements......So a very fine touch on the needles is needed...but the reward is a carb that can achieve a razor sharp tune ..
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Old 07-07-2013 | 06:03 AM
  #7595  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
the damage doesn't look too bad , so we should be able to fix it no issues...... in the future I would try to track down a different fuel....I am no longer a fan of what you are using, seen too many crankpin/rod bushing related issues this year......never had seen that in that past with that brand, but in the last while there seems to be more and more coming out of the woodwork......... several engines where the crankpin was burnt right down.......Also I suggest 30% nitro over 20 and 25%......However it is what it is, if that is all you have to work with then there is not much you can do.........

the damage to your engine is 100% caused from a breakdown of lubrication between the crankpin and the rod bushing...... The forces of friction between between the rod bushing and the crankpin were so great it tore the bushing out of the bottom of the rod.....There can only be that level of friction if there is a lack of lubrication...either from running too lean, over revving the engine, or a breakdown of the fuels lubrication......

either way the damage is not too bad and we can easilly have her fixxed up for you without breaking the bank...
I disagree , I have seen wayyy too many of the roma and .28 rods go , guarantee it has NOTHING to do with byrons , BS

I had a roma rod go in 7 tanks as this guy is stating , it was on my personal engine , I know things were done right . There is a reason why novarossi "updated" the rod

U guys know I wouldn't post on here unless it was warranted
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Old 07-07-2013 | 06:12 AM
  #7596  
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Originally Posted by houston
I disagree , I have seen wayyy too many of the roma and .28 rods go , guarantee it has NOTHING to do with byrons , BS

I had a roma rod go in 7 tanks as this guy is stating , it was on my personal engine , I know things were done right . There is a reason why novarossi "updated" the rod

U guys know I wouldn't post on here unless it was warranted
crankpins dont lie ...... the lube quality of the 30/9 is very poor.....I have seen too many burnt down crankpins this year on that 30/9 blend....

just to add , I am not sure if its a batch issue, or a blend issue...all I know is that I have seen a good number of engines this year with severely worn crankpins on the 30/9 blend........You wont see that kind of friction wear unless there is a breakdown of the lubrication......In the past I have not seen any of this from that particular fuel, and I have had hundreds and hundreds of customers running it...but in t he last few months we have seen too many engines with severely worn crankpins that were exclusively run on 30/9 ........

also to add..... If I see a single engine with a worn crankpin I don't think much of it, but when I see 6 engines(nova's ) from 4 different users all in a 2 month period all running the same fuel I have to start asking questions........ Especially when I have gone two years and not seen any substantially worn Nova crankpins at all......FYI Nova cranks are very very hard and don't wear easily unless there is severe dirt or severe friction, and the engines I am referring to have no signs of dirt............

Last edited by Maximo; 07-07-2013 at 06:33 AM.
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Old 07-07-2013 | 06:16 AM
  #7597  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
crankpins dont lie ...... the lube quality of the 30/9 is very poor......
Pro driver is just fine Neal
I've seen rod failures with many fuels
The real problem is in the rods , u know this as well as I

I'm just finally tired of trying to cover it up
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Old 07-07-2013 | 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by houston
Pro driver is just fine Neal
I've seen rod failures with many fuels
The real problem is in the rods , u know this as well as I

I'm just finally tired of trying to cover it up
I have sold hundreds and hundreds of Nova's now and haven't seen too many rod issues myself........ Any failures were simply from the rods being pushed past their service life.......other then that we have really not had issues........
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Old 07-07-2013 | 06:59 AM
  #7599  
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I have actually found the Nova's to have the most durable rods of any of the engine brands I have dealt with.....Even the 13 batch R7 rods didn't give us any grief......... a few here and there let go, but usually only because they were run too long and not changed out...I am not trying to argue either, just relaying what I have found on my side ...... I have seen more burnt crankpins in the last 2 months then I have seen premature failed rods over the last 2 years
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Old 07-07-2013 | 07:07 AM
  #7600  
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Was it the Gen2 your guys were using Neal or the New Worlds Blend? I have seen bad results from the worlds blend.
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Old 07-07-2013 | 10:50 AM
  #7601  
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I really shouldn't stick my nose into the middle of this but I have to.

If you use Byrons, add an ounce of castor to every gallon. It needs it. No, not every driver or every engine is going to see problems without it but adding it prevents you from being one of the ones with a problem and hurts NOTHING. In fact, I find it to actually be a bit crisper and easier to tune.

Or just switch to Kosmic or something.
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Old 07-07-2013 | 11:05 AM
  #7602  
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Originally Posted by rider313
Was it the Gen2 your guys were using Neal or the New Worlds Blend? I have seen bad results from the worlds blend.
my clocked bonito had a bad crank pin after 2 gals. That was on byrons gen 2 30%-9
Since I switched to the worlds blend seems to have a little better lubrication. Been running my clocked picco with 2 gal's of worlds blend seems a lot better. But we will see. My LHS stopped carrying werks that's why I am using byrons.
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Old 07-08-2013 | 11:33 AM
  #7603  
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Originally Posted by Maximo
I have sold hundreds and hundreds of Nova's now and haven't seen too many rod issues myself........ Any failures were simply from the rods being pushed past their service life.......other then that we have really not had issues........
I witnessed 3 Clocked Nova engines break a rod in the same day about a month ago at a club race.

It could have been caused by user error or other variables, but it did happen.

I am not bashing Clockworks or Nova.
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Old 07-08-2013 | 11:37 AM
  #7604  
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Originally Posted by Maxxed-out
I witnessed 3 Clocked Nova engines break a rod in the same day about a month ago at a club race.

It could have been caused by user error or other variables, but it did happen.

I am not bashing Clockworks or Nova.
Broken rods = user error and/or inexperience.....period!
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Old 07-08-2013 | 12:02 PM
  #7605  
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Originally Posted by Maxxed-out
I witnessed 3 Clocked Nova engines break a rod in the same day about a month ago at a club race.

It could have been caused by user error or other variables, but it did happen.

I am not bashing Clockworks or Nova.
I have not heard of 3 of my customers with those issues all at once..... I would have thought they would contact me if that happened, especially at the same time at the same track............I have seen the odd one fail, but usually they are the case of the rod being run too long ..........

edit.. I do know on one day two of my customers did blow 2 rods....but they weren't both in my engines...one was a Clocked plus 4 that had been re-pinched and was still on the original rod, and the other was a stock P5........I always feel that after a re pinch and second break in that the rod should be replaced.....

Last edited by Maximo; 07-08-2013 at 12:41 PM.
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