I have one of your P5's as well. I guess I'll have to make up my mind here soon

No comparison.

Well I bought one of the Newer P5's with the ceramic bearing and team CNC Piston... have about 1/3 of a gallon in it and it has crazy power...can't wait to get a gallon in it. Hope to see the # of gallons this motor keeps good power.

Well the lifespan of the engine is directly related to how well you take care f it...the #1 killer of engines we see is dirt getting into the engine,......so keep the engine clean and monitor and check for dirt ingestion and you should do goo...remember if a day comes where the engine wont run right and wants to stall its best to stop and pull it off the track...being stubborn and trying to force a hurt engine to run is usually what ends up completely destroying a engine......So int he end its best to pay attention to the engine and listen to what it is telling you....I Am always available and I always answer my phone, so if you ever feel in over your head I encourage you to call me..........nobody knows these engines as well as I do and I absolutely love helping our customers out , so don't be shy to call

Quick video of practice today with my new Clocked Plus4T engine that I got broken in by Clockwork. Within a tank, it lost its mechanical pinch and was ready for a race tune! I had some initial issues getting everything running right, and Neal always answered the phone from 8-10pm on a Friday night. After getting the engine running properly, I prefer the feel of this over the Buggy mod P5 I had earlier this year, more bottom end and better mileage while still being smooth. Another thing I did was going from the Werks 2058 to the Nova 9886/41001 combo, which made a huge difference in the power across the power band, and a 7mm venturi and Werks fuel. Because it had so much more power, I limited the throttle endpoint so the carb only opens 75%. With this it makes the engine a lot more controllable and tames it down for anyone not looking for a super powerful engine...and getting crazy run times in the process. The Buku clutch settings were a little low for me, but the spread out clutch settings (1,2,3 turns out from flush, respectively) made the engine lay down the power without excess wheel spin.

In the video below, I was using the above setup, and could clear the big triple with only about half of the carb open. Many other stock engines were using full throttle and barely clearing it. I'm really liking this new engine, and the 2013 series should be that much better!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHeVA...ature=youtu.be

That looks awesome for only 75% throttle !!!!!! Nice low clutch stall and she hooks right up for you....I look forward to seeing more video !!!!! nice driving by the way !

+1, nice wheelin

Ok so ran my CLOCKED - NOVAROSSI P5XLT-SB ENGINE engine today for my 2nd time. I was noticing they I had a high idle after the engine got hot(220-240). Not sure what it was, but I started noticing wet dirt at the back of the engine. I decided that I would stop running for now and take engine out and find what was the issue. Found the exhaust gasket torn on the bottom. I assumed this is causing high idle.. so now I am worried that motor has gotten dirt in it.
So I have taken the engine apart and noticed the button head o-ring is also torn toward the back of the engine. Has me wondering about internal damage so I have completely disassembled the engine. I did find the front bearing with some roughness in it. So I have ordered replacement o-ring, front bearing and gasket and am now going to reseal engine upon assembly. Not sure why front bearing has started getting rough or how the o-ring under head button could get torn.... will listen to any suggestions.

Bugy or truggy version ?

The O-rings under the head usually end up getting compressed and will get small tears....pretty normal...There is no way it can damage the internals, its only a dust shield/vibration damper

17011 bearing is a top notch bearing.....only way it would get gritty is if it ingested some dirt into itself.. Being a double shielded bearing it is not the smoothest rolling in your fingers.. I would pop the bearing out, pop the shields out and give it a rinse.....I doubt the bearing itself is damaged, you may just have some grit between the shields....use some brake cleaner and rinse it out....


And please do not use any sealer on the engine, it is not needed and not advised on a Novarossi...usually makes more of a mess then anything else....

It was the Truggy Version.... Neal, this is one of the first one you got. I will look at the bearing after taking shields out and rinsing it. I am wonder why a double sealed bearing would be trying to pull dirt into it though?
I will also take your advise and not use any sealer.... I just want to make sure I don't get any dirt into engine.

I am going to recommend you add the shim I sent with the engine ! your using a higher oil fuel and a hotter plug...the slightly hanging idle tells me it wants a shim...later on down the road when she loosens up you may pull the shim back out.........

Dirt can get drawn into the engines, as they will leak a certain amount of vacuum out the nose thru the bearing......If a bearing feels gritty it is from dirt getting into it...Or the bearing is still new and not fully seated and maybe just dragging on the double stacked shields......

Always good to be cautious, however sometimes you can over think things and possibly cause more harm then good....

+1 on the over thinking Idea. I did combine Byron 30/9% and 30/11% to make a little different blend. I like Higher oil than 9% but your right 11% is high. I will add that shim and see how it does and I will still use the P4 plugs and see what happens. Thanks for the tips and help.

PLEASE don't buy a motor from Neil! As soon as you do you won't have an excuse not to win anymore.... You better off buying a bum motor and keep telling people that you would have TQ'ed but you keep flaming out.....

If it not clocked it's not modded!

I usually set the head clearance to be what we would run here, somewhat a neutral setting.....However depending on conditions some people may run an even tighter head, while others may need to add a shim.......Usually the first sign a engine will give you that it wants a shim is that the idle will want to race ...Sometimes the symptom is quite subtle , so I always recommend adding the 0.1 mm shim I included then testing it out...If the engine settles down then it needed the shim, and if the engine doesn't settle down then it may be something else......Unfortunately with head shims it is impossible for me to set every engine to be perfect for everyone....When as little as 0.004" can make or break a engine it is just too sensitive to predict each engines sweet spot...... If you have any questions do not hesitate to call me...or drop me your number and I will call you......

And don't be shy to pop a bearing out of a engine , pop the shields off and clean the bearing out, wash off the shields and put her back together,,easy to do and can dramatically prolong the lifespan of both the bearing and the engine...Front bearings wear out from running with dirt in them...Don't allow the dirt to accumulate and the bearings will last much longer as will the engine..... Its quite easy to do... ...I pull the shields with the tip of a exacto, I rinse the bearing with nitro spray and air....use a little castor oil and put it all back together.... Sometimes I will rinse out the bearing while it is laying on white paper to see if any dirt rinses out.....Sort of like the white glove house cleaning test.....Its actually amazing how much crap can get caught up into the front bearings....

is there any differences between the bonito and the new keep off