all I can say is better than stock for now... had a starter box belt break and qualifiers were short so not even a tank. but I did notice quiet a bit more fuel in tank compared to last weeks qualifiers. I was also running a bit rich due to the newness of the motor.. Got belts on order and I should be able to get you better run time numbers when I get to dial it in more. Sorry, for the vagueness of the post Just really pissed at the damn LOSI starter box.. first time being used and ... snaped the damn belt.. I have read this happens alot.

I was pitting at 11 minutes for my 25 minute main, and probably could have stretched it to 12 1/2. This engine is still being run a bit rich, and we just started leaning it out a bit approaching a race tune. Frank was handling the wrenching on it for me Saturday, and he's a bona fide tuning wizard for sure! I have just less than a gallon through this sucker, so I'm looking forward to full break-in and should see 13 minute run times with no problems. What can I say...it's nice to have an engine that you don't have to worry about that makes gobs of power, idles like a dream all day long, and gets great run-time!:nod::nod:

It should not take a gallon to drop its nuts if yours was lapped.

Good to know, as I'm about 1/2 way there presently.

Even tho the engine is hand fitted, there will still be a seating in period where the engine will stabilize.....Different types of lubricants in the fuels will affect how long this process takes...fuel with a high % of high grade synthetic can take longer to seat then fuels using castor oil....Castor oil protects better at high RPM and high load situations, but in low load low RPM situations synthetic protects better..so during a breakin condition a synthetic oil base is going to result in the process taking longer....

B5Mod Engine: well Ive been waiting for the new speed to get back in stock in HK and might still wait but reading the $200 thread has made me even more curious but I cannot get over the pipe purchase. I have a Jp3, 2060,2050, 1005 hows the performance any testing and what pipe is recommended.

The 2050 or JP3 may work decently....

pipe should depend on the track/application, right?

Not necessarily. Find the right pipe for an engine and sometimes it will be the only pipe you ever need for any application. Prime example is the 2060 on OS engines.;)

gotcha! lemme ask u tho, would you use a top end pipe on a tight/tech track?

If that particular engine ran best with the "top end" pipe yeah. But I'm not someone who messes with pipes for different tracks much. I like to find a pipe that I feel suits the engine best and run that all the time. I know some guys like to hop around with pipes, but I like to find that "right" pipe for an engine and stick with it.:nod:

+1 there's usually only one perfect pipe for any engine. make your other changes according to track with your clutch set-up, shocks, tires, etc

Speaking only about OS engines, particularly the speed. The 2060 does it all, it's "thee" pipe for the speed and really the v spec. This pertains to OS though, since that's were most of my experience is i can't speak abt other engine brands. I did however find the RE10 pipe trumps the 2060 on a large track but rarely do we run on something with a straight that long. Ed at EB Mods told me what pipe worked on his engines, Neal will tell you what pipe to run on his engines. If you run a truggy Neal will pretty much tell you what engine and pipe to run and it will work on all tracks, same with buggy. I'm surprisingly pleased with Neal's B5 in my truggy, but i have the pipe and plug that is recommended. I ran speeds for a number of years and the Clockworks B5 has the speed beat in every catagory so far. I will be the 1st to say if it disappoints.

i agree, thats why i asked the ? weve ran the 2060 on vz-b's and the .28xz

i agree w/jaz also(sorry idk how to quote multiple ppl, lol) but i go down the list and gear you listed will help adapt to track conditions

I have a Dynamite 086 pipe. Was this ever tested on the mod B5?