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Old 06-05-2011 | 10:34 AM
  #496  
am
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I am sorry, but you have been running the engine to lean. The color of your glowplug should not be that grey.

And if you use a fuel with low oilcontent, rod will go out :-(
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Old 06-05-2011 | 02:26 PM
  #497  
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maybe. i had smoke and i used werks fuel. it now color in it. the day this broke i was running temp from 200 to 240 max. i've never had this motor over 250 since i got it.
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Old 06-05-2011 | 02:37 PM
  #498  
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Originally Posted by RCworks216
its RC, things happen. The inside of my motor. I'll replace the P/S/C and butt. I guess i'll replace the bearings since its open.
that engine was definitely run too lean...I can see marking from heavy detonation all over the head button........When you see pitting on the button that looks like it has been sand blasted its always from running too lean...If you were using Werk's fuel with a proper tune you would have a black carbon buildup on the button.... But I see no carbon buildup, just bare sand blasted aluminum finish............ Temperature really means nothing, an engine can be running quite cool and still be too lean and detonating....
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Old 06-06-2011 | 09:26 AM
  #499  
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Ad to that the B01 is a direct copy of the GRP tuned which liked to run cool...usually arround 200, so 240 seems quite hot for this engine.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 09:33 AM
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Ya I see no oil residue unless your cleaned it. This engine likes to be run cool. On a 60 degree day I had temps around 180/190 on a hot day 205/210.

It might be cheapier to get a new engine by the time you replace the bearings/piston and sleeve.
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Old 06-06-2011 | 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Maximo
that engine was definitely run too lean...I can see marking from heavy detonation all over the head button........When you see pitting on the button that looks like it has been sand blasted its always from running too lean...If you were using Werk's fuel with a proper tune you would have a black carbon buildup on the button.... But I see no carbon buildup, just bare sand blasted aluminum finish............ Temperature really means nothing, an engine can be running quite cool and still be too lean and detonating....
I disagree, If you notice the brass bushing is completely gone, where did it go??? Up and out, beating the crap out of everything
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Old 06-06-2011 | 12:41 PM
  #502  
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Originally Posted by METALWORXS
I disagree, If you notice the brass bushing is completely gone, where did it go??? Up and out, beating the crap out of everything
the detonation on the head button doesn't lie....... the bushing came out from the engine being too lean.....The bushing and crankpin lost lubrication causing the bushing to stick onto the crankpin and spinning out of the rod....with a rod bushing out an engine wont even run, let alone run long enough to cause detonation marks on the button.......This is definitely a case of an engine being run too lean...detonated head button and a spun rod bushing....this one is as cut and dry as they get I am sorry to say...
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Old 06-06-2011 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximo
the detonation on the head button doesn't lie....... the bushing came out from the engine being too lean.....The bushing and crankpin lost lubrication causing the bushing to stick onto the crankpin and spinning out of the rod....with a rod bushing out an engine wont even run, let alone run long enough to cause detonation marks on the button.......This is definitely a case of an engine being run too lean...detonated head button and a spun rod bushing....this one is as cut and dry as they get I am sorry to say...
Oh my bad, I didnt know you were there while he was running it. You assume thats what happened... What if the bushing came out piece by piece????? the engine would still run for a bit... The rod bushing in mine cracked and a small piece broke loose, what do you have to say about that???
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Old 06-06-2011 | 03:13 PM
  #504  
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Originally Posted by METALWORXS
Oh my bad, I didnt know you were there while he was running it. You assume thats what happened... What if the bushing came out piece by piece????? the engine would still run for a bit... The rod bushing in mine cracked and a small piece broke loose, what do you have to say about that???
learn how to tune maybe ?

the engine pictured has absolutely zero oil buildup on the head...if it was a proper tune then debris went thru it there would still be residue on the head....but because the head is bare and detonated it was lean...also if it was debris we would see much larger damage, the damage shown is 100% from detonation......detonation is from being too lean for the conditions...... I have worked with hundreds of engines over the years, i do not need to be there in person to see what caused the damage shown..........rob bushings letting go is almost always from being too lean....time to time we will see a faulty rod, but it would not explain the bare metal detonated head button sorry to say !
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Old 06-06-2011 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximo
learn how to tune maybe ?

the engine pictured has absolutely zero oil buildup on the head...if it was a proper tune then debris went thru it there would still be residue on the head....but because the head is bare and detonated it was lean...also if it was debris we would see much larger damage, the damage shown is 100% from detonation......detonation is from being too lean for the conditions...... I have worked with hundreds of engines over the years, i do not need to be there in person to see what caused the damage shown..........rob bushings letting go is almost always from being too lean....time to time we will see a faulty rod, but it would not explain the bare metal detonated head button sorry to say !
bwahahahahahahahah!!!!!! Im sure glad you play with toy car engines and not a Dr
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Old 06-06-2011 | 04:28 PM
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Why, because he knows what he is talking about and what he wrote is correct??
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Old 06-06-2011 | 04:40 PM
  #507  
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Why do you people bother to ask if you can't accept the responses?
Neil (Maximo) has been modding engines for longer than most people have been racing nitro. If anyone has "seen it all" wouldn't it be a fellow that's been insides hundreds (if not thousands) of engines?


BTW

Did you notice Neil didn't use the term "pre-detonation"? That's because there is no such thing. Detonation is the result of a fuel charge burning too rapidly. Too lean a mixture, advanced combustion timing, low octane fuel (gas engines), compression too high. The fuel charge burns so fast that it literally explodes, rather than a rapid, progressive burn. The explosion creates a shock wave that can be heard. (that nifty, super fast rattle) This shock wave can pound the ROD BEARINGS out of an engine (even an automobile engine). I've seen the results my self in automobile engines, ATV engines, and by gosh, even two-stroke engines. I've seen detonation blow holes right through the dome of a piston. One final comment. Every engine I've seen with anything other than BRIEF detonation has at least some shock wave erosion evident in the combustion chamber, be it the head or the piston.

pre-IGNITION occurs in engines that use a spark to begin combustion.
If the spark plug tip gets too hot it can ignite the mixture even before it sparks, causing run-away heat build up melting pistons and rings.
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Old 06-07-2011 | 01:34 PM
  #508  
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Originally Posted by METALWORXS
bwahahahahahahahah!!!!!! Im sure glad you play with toy car engines and not a Dr
You know, now your just plain ignorant. I called the engine lean beacuse of the glowplug color, and i know i am right after 15 years of running nitro engines, and i have been tuning them for quite some time with good results. I was also the importer of the Falcon enigines to Norway witch was the same as GRP engines so i have had quite a few between my hands.

The detonation can also come from to high compression, but the plug would look different, the filament of the plug would have been pushed in, so high compression is not the case here.

Maximo is an incredible tuner, with an awsome reputation!

Werks, well, that is Werks Racing who makes Werks engines and fuel.

I am 10000% sure, that if you buy a new engine, put on the old carb after running in, you would do exatly the same with your new engine.

If you got sick, theese doctors would probebly do more for you than alot of the doctors that is just idiots with my hart condition....
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Old 06-30-2011 | 09:01 AM
  #509  
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Anybody here running the new B03 in buggy and the T02 in truggy. Getting mine next week!! Can't wait to try them out! Full report and video coming soon
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Old 07-05-2011 | 07:56 PM
  #510  
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broke in my new bo1 this weekend. i was pretty worried about it because i wanted to have it ready to race for this weekend and it is such a tight motor. the last motor i had that was this tight took nearly 2 gallons before it would really run well. i am happy to say that even after only a half gallon, this thing rocks!! i currently have a 053 pipe on it but am planning to do some experimenting with pipes soon. i just knew that the track i am going to requires a lot of bottom end so that is what i started with. i can't wait to see what this thing can do after it drops it's nuts!!
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